Because it’s a perfume that’s quite individual, that doesn’t evoke anything in particular. It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric.1
That’s Consuelo Castiglioni, founder and designer of the Italian fashion house Marni, talking about the brand’s recently-launched debut fragrance.2 Marni has been around since 1994, but I had never heard of them — not unusual given how little attention I pay to fashion, and if the fragrance takes off, it won’t be the first time that a luxury designer is best known for an affordable perfume — Viktor & Rolf, anyone?3 The thing that caught my eye right away was the packaging, which is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric, and which is also excellent good fun; plus, it doesn’t remind me of any other bottle I can think of — how often does that happen now that we’re getting 1000+ new fragrances a year? Also a plus: Estee Lauder holds the license and the perfumer is Daniela Andrier. Double bonus points: Consuelo Castiglioni apparently doesn’t like fruit, flowers or sweet. I don’t dislike any of those, mind you, but we get plenty enough of them on the fragrance counters already.
Despite Ms. Castiglioni’s preferences, Marni starts with a little whoosh of fruit, tinged green and mingling with bright citrus, but it’s not sweet, and neither the fruit nor the flowers take over the proceedings (the notes: bergamot, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom, pink pepper, rose, incense, vetiver, cedar and patchouli). Rather, Marni does for a spicy woods what Prada’s Infusion d’Iris does for iris and Maison Martin Margiela Untitled does for green — it turns what could, in this case, have been a heavy oriental into an enveloping veil of scent with a modern feel. It’s crisp and bright at first, gradually turning spicier (emphasis, to my nose, on the cinnamon) and woodier, with a darkish undercurrent of rose (they are calling it a ‘black rose’) and a powdery finish to the dry down. It has a little more presence than Infusion or Untitled, but only a little — it’s still more subdued than not.
Like the the other Andrier scents mentioned just above, Marni is more wearable than quirky, but it doesn’t smell like they went for the easy money. As advertised, it’s sophisticated, and while I wouldn’t go so far as “eccentric”, it’s certainly different enough from most of what you’ll find on department store fragrance counters. They wanted a touch of masculine,4 and I guess they got it — I should think anybody, man or woman, could wear Marni. I should also think it could be worn nearly anywhere, in nearly any weather, and the lasting power is quite good.
Verdict: Marni is terrifically well done, and I liked it right away. It’s a perfect “go-to perfume“, and I predict it will find many fans among perfumistas. Hopefully, it will do well with non-perfumistas as well. I do not need a bottle, and am glad to put that in print so as to remind myself that I do NOT need a bottle, because even though I REALLY do NOT need a bottle (third time’s a charm?) I am mightily tempted by that 10 ml spray, which is cute as a button. If I did not have the spicy woods category pretty well covered, it would go on my buy list. As it stands, it is NOT on my buy list, and we’ll just have to wait and see if I end up buying it anyway.
Marni by Marni is available in 30, 65 ($105) and 120 ($155) ml Eau de Parfum and in a 10 ml purse spray packaged with a doll ($50). In the US, it is currently exclusive to Saks Fifth Avenue.
1. Via Women’s Wear Daily, 11/1/2012.
2. According to the Independent, “The word most often associated with the design signature of Marni is quirky”. Via Marni Mania: Consuelo Castiglioni collaborates with H&M at the Independent.
3. A point made by Consuelo’s daughter, Carolina, in an interview with Style.com: “I also think that with the fragrance, we will reach a wider audience. Of course, there are many women, or girls, who cannot afford a Marni piece, but they can follow our style starting from the fragrance.” Side note: Diesel’s Renzo Rosso now owns a controlling interest in Marni, Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf.
4. Carolina Castiglioni again: she noted that they wanted “to have more of a masculine fragrance, but with a touch of femininity.” Trudi Loren, in the video linked above, calls it “almost slightly masculine”.
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Ah, this makes me happy. I did know Marni (have a bunch of their shoes and signature necklaces) and really hoped that they’d bring something decent. And those tiny upside-down-toadstool-like bottles are mighty cute.
I really hope it’ll show up soon here, I wanted to test it this weekend but it was nowhere to be seen and all inquires were met either with blank stares or “Armani?”
This was at Saks? It’s only at Saks in the US, and I think that’s true for some months yet.
And yes, made me happy too even though I don’t know Marni from Adam. If I had a fashion house, I’d want Estee Lauder + Daniela Andrier to do my scent too
Nah, I’m across the pond so I tried Harvey Nics and Selfridges since they are often the first stores that get these kind of new releases. February is about as definite as I can find through Google.
Not sure who I’d pick. Perhaps JCE or, if Hermès can’t spare him, maybe someone like Grojsman just because.
Oh, so sorry, I knew that but forgot. There ought to be something about the gravatar that gives your location, LOL…
Have not yet seen it online on your side of the pond, which is unusual because these days usually the US is last in line. Are there Marni boutiques there? That might be where you’d find it early.
I think Grojsman is retired or mostly retired? Would take Giacobetti but bet she’s hard to get, and yeah, JCE not likely either.
Haha, jinx.
In the U.K. it’ll be exclusive to Harrods and is due there in about two weeks.
Thanks, Rob. Ugh, 3 words I hate seeing since I’m hardly ever in London.
This is a GREAT game–Giacobetti for me, please!
(Actually that could have been sort of cool here, given the Italy connection. Plus, I love the way the clothing line is both highly conceptual and also very beautiful, for which Giacobetti seems like a perfect match. But then, the fragrance would have a pretty different function from the one they describe. Or than most design houses have for their perfume, for that matter.)
I do wish Giacobetti was more active than she is.
I pick Aurelian Guichard for my personal perfumer. He’s not my absolute favorite perfumer but he is, imho, the cutest.
I am very impressed what he’s done with Piguet. Really. lol
Oh, look at the pretty jar the body cream comes in! Spicy woods is my favorite perfume category and I have way too many as it is, but this sounds very nice and I hope it gets lots of mainstream love.
Yes, the ancillaries are very drool-worth too, and that little tiny mini, looks like a 5 ml? I want that too
Robin’s likes are almost invariably spot on with mine, so I hope this turns up in Plymouth soonest, just for a spritz-test!
Ah, then hope you will like it!
I agree about the bottle getting it right on sophisticated and fun. Most bottles seem to be either kitch-cute or elegant. This one says, you can be discriminating AND have fun – what an idea!
Personally I had not heard of the designer so perhaps she is not represented in South Africa? Because of that, the only association I have with the name Marni is this really repressed, drab and resentful psychic from True Blood. It’s not the best association:)
Ack, no, it isn’t the best association.
The bottle is almost perfect. Wish the cap was all red instead of with the gold/black stripes, but hey, you can’t have everything.
Funny because those stripes seem intended to operate as signals of luxury’, but for some reason they remind me of Revlon!
EXACTLY what I thought when I saw them — that’s the little “luxury” signifier which doesn’t quite work.
Another one here who loves the bottle! And I have to admit that this sounds wonderful, and even though I’m sure I have a fraction of what you have, Robin, I do NOT need this either. I wish they hadn’t jacked up the price of the purse spray with the doll. Temptation might have been irresistible then!
Agree…make that darned thing $40 and they can keep the doll.
If they do a flanker with an opaque red bottle, white polka dots & a black cap, I might have to buy it no matter what juice they put in it.
The doll’s a freebie – Lauder’s Missoni cost that much for the rollerball and didn’t have a doll
I guess you can look at it that way, but it must cost something to make and package, right? I still say leave out the doll, even if all it does is make people *suspect* they’re paying extra for it.
Good point.
Hahaha…Robin, you crack me up! I’ve been tempted to purchase this unsniffed. I read about it in a Vogue article, and have seen a couple of reviews that agree with your assessment – that it’s a good one. Hmmm…
I do have one question. When you say “spicy woods” and that you have that covered. What are some fragrances that are similar? Maybe I don’t like spicy woods.
Well, think of any sheer spicy oriental — anything from Lubin Idole to Bvlgari Omnia to Diptyque L’Eau to Penhaligon’s Elixir to Comptoir Sud Pacifique L’Eau du Gouverneur. But come to think of it, I don’t have anything *exactly* like Marni, do I? *giggles*
Gotcha – thanks, Robin. Though only one I’m familiar with on your list is Omnia! I really just need to try the Marni. That will decide it.
As for you, sounds like you’re a goner. Ha!
Wow, didn’t mean to come up with such an obscure list but I guess I did. Do you know Givenchy Organza Indecence? Take out the creamy part, add a touch of powder, and make the whole thing a bit less dark, and much more sheer.
Marni is not as foody as Omnia, even though I only think of Omnia as lightly foody.
Oh interesting! I just won a bottle of Carner Barcelona Rima XI on another blog, and it totally reminds me of Organza Indecence, but better IMO. Now I really want to try the Marni…
Well now that you’ve name-checked both Idole and Omnia, both of which I love, I think I need to get by butt to Saks and see if they have it. If I bought anything it would probably be the purse spray, though I wish there were a cheaper doll-free option.
I will be pissed if they discontinue Omnia, but sort of surprised they haven’t already. Hope you’ll like Marni.
It makes me sad that you don’t see Omnia around more. I can pretty much only find it at discounters, so I thought it was basically discontinued already. I mean, on one had that’s good because I can get it cheap, but it’s so much better than the flankers that I wish it had wider distribution.
which Vogue?
February U.S. issue.
For some reason, reading your description and the list of notes—especially the cinnamon and rose—I thought of Penhaligon’s Elixir, which also sounds like it should be a heavy, spicy oriental but to me seems more like an “enveloping veil of scent.” (I believe it is by Olivia Giacobetti.) Any similarity at all? In any case I will have to try this.
Ha, just mentioned that above. They are in a sort of similar style, but going on memory, Elixir is woodier (particularly, more cedar-y) and given more “bite” by the eucalyptus. Marni is probably a shade more feminine and a shade more “smoothed over”? Elixir *would* be quirky for a mainstream launch.
Elixir has been on my buy list forever, and don’t even have a sample any more so can’t compare them directly.
Spicy woods, cinnamon, rose… I have to sample this! I wonder when/if it will be available at First in Fragrance.
Would not have expected to see it in a niche store, but you never know.
It’s sunny, nearly 70 degrees, AND you’re telling me I’d be in for a treat if I cut out early for the Saks fragrance counter?! Sorry work, you cannot compete with that.
VERY jealous of your 70 degrees, to say nothing of the sunny part.
Right? I feel like, almost morally obligated to go enjoy the weather, on behalf of everyone subjected to miserable winter weather (including myself, all last weekend).
Spicy woods? Small size? I am so there. Hate the doll, love the bottle, but I might just have to deal with that.
The doll is an annoyance. Probably not for Marni fans, but for everybody else.
sounds very interesting, is it this year’s bottega veneta equivalent? (in the sense of surprisingly good scent from a luxury fashion label?), hope it’ll come out soon, not saying NOT
Yes, exactly.
Well, this sounds really good, if it has the same vibe as the Prada I will probably be hooked. As my spicy woods are NOT covered,at least not enough, I may need a bottle. At the very least a little sniff.
But I would just like to remind you, that YOU don’t need a bottle.
The end of your review had me in stitches!
Just as a matter of academic perfume interest: Have you recently counted your collection?
Not kidding when I say I have not counted my collection in some years! Don’t even want to know. I don’t buy all that many bottles any more, although it’s kind of ridiculous that I buy any at all — in a way, I just buy perfume for sport now. I don’t need anything at all — it is not like I ever look at my collection and say oh, if only I owned X, I’d wear that today.
But given your passion for, and constant engagement in, perfumery I think its inevitable that you would buy an occasional new bottle. I once collected something far less interesting, and though I still wear them (a certain type of bead) I don’t devote much time to enthusing over them, evaluating them and examining new releases. I reached satiation and that was that.
Not that I’v got ANY interest in justifying excess!
Ha!
And what kind of bead? I used to do beads. That was possibly an even more expensive hobby.
Beading is an expensive hobby! I would walk into a bead shop for some cheap clasps or crimps or tiger-tail and walk out with the oddest things – Ethiopian silver, Czech pressed glass, fire-polished beads!
But then my interest in QUALITY beads lead me to those highly inflated though gorgeous brand-type beads. In particular, Troll beads. Two glass troll beads cost the same as a bottle of prestige perfume!
Incredibly expensive, and I know just that experience. It was in some ways worse to shop for beads than perfume. For awhile I worked in a bead store, that was really deadly.
I often think that a ‘collection’ is defined in part by the fact that it includes more than you need. Think of all those teapot collections or stamp collections or vintage motorcycle collections. Their owners cannot possibly use all, or even some, of that stuff, but they love it all the same and feel they ‘need’ it. Our perfume obsession is not that different.
Sorry, not making you feel any better, am I?
So consider this: the other thing that defines a ‘collection’, rather than an assemblage of random stuff, is that you have ‘curated’ it. You have selected this, rejected that, swapped less good stuff for better stuff, culled, expanded, read and researched, educated yourself, applied a well-informed taste, networked with other collectors, made social connections, enjoyed yourself, enriched your life. There! All good now.
LOL…you all are a bunch of shameless enablers! I’ve been thinking of doing a sort of “talk me back from the cliff” poll where readers could name the scent they’re trying not to buy, other readers could talk them out of it. But it would never work!
But also — part of my point is to at least only buy things I’ve decided I should own even though I don’t need them — that’s what my buy list is for, and it’s got all sort of things on it that I love more than Marni.
This I don’t even think I should own, I just really like it and I love the packaging and it’s only $50.
I think I see what you mean: there is a kind of regulating factor, not ‘need’, but still a criterion which has some objectivity to it (objectivity that takes subjective preferences and leanings into account, of course). K, maybe I’m just confusing myself now; its past 1am here so I’m off to bed before I post any more confused comments!
I like the idea of a talk me off the cliff thread, as long as enablers don’t exploit the opportunity and talk people OVER the cliff. Lemmings indeed!
I do, too. And I’ve got the useless bottles to prove it’s needed.
That reminds me of a quote from somewhere, something about rich people being curators of their possessions! Kind of unfortunate; but that may depend on ones feelings about ownership in general.
Nice one – rich people being curators of their possessions. It’s true, I’d say.
How do you think it compare to L’eau Ambree?
Stylistically, yes, L’Eau Ambree does the same thing w/ amber. It’s quieter than Marni, and more “Prada”.
whoa! Robin you just told me that my Monday Mail request for something new to wear will be addressed next week and this comes out? Atleast in print this looks like what I am looking for! I am about 110 miles from Saks in Richmond or Raleigh, so this is definitely a possibility for either my wedding anniversary (May 1) or birthday (May 18) coming up (a little short notice for V-day… )
Interesting. Could be that this will be too tame for you though…hard to say. I was envisioning you with more of a big statement scent — Donna Karan Black Cashmere or something.
tried it–you were right. way too tame.
I just spritzed a card and grabbed a sample of this at Holt Renfrew yesterday. I immediately liked it, but got distracted by my primary mission (trying to get the scoop on the new Dries Van Noten/Frédéric Malle from the FM SA). Today I kept smelling something lovely whenever I took my hand out of my coat pocket, and realized that I had stuck the spritzed card in there. I’m sniffing that card right now, and it’s really nice! It reminds me (at least on this day-old card) of a lighter, brighter Santal Majuscule. Looking forward to trying it on skin tomorrow!
A worthy mission!
I wish I had loved Santal Majuscule but I just didn’t. I will stick with my Santal Blanc.
There’s a Santal for everyone! Majuscule is actually the only one I’ve tried of that family, but I’ve got a load of Serge Lutens samples on order as we speak. Can’t wait!
Just trying SM tonight–it is reminding me strongly of Jeau de Peau, which is not for me. It doesn’t have that fruity top, but the dry down is very similar–buttery, sweet pastry. Odd.
I have serious bottle-lust now!
I picked up the purse spray this weekend after sampling it on skin and loving it. It’s an excellent everyday scent as you mentioned, and I’ve been complimented on it! That never happens. As a bonus, DH loves it too. Since the purse spray is refillable, I have a feeling that I will be getting a larger bottle… it would be a waste not to refill it, wouldn’t it? The super-nice SAs at Holt’s gave me the mini, a carded sample, and a bracelet/necklace that is inbued with scent. The doll IS creepy, but my 7-year old daughter thinks she’s kind of cool.
It is refillable?? I did not even know that, nor did I know any of the larger bottles were splash. Jealous of your mini, that must be adorable!!
Am I enabling right now? So be it! Yes, it is refillable
I would imagine that the larger bottles are sprays, but they can be opened and decanted. The mini is so cute!
Thanks! And yes, you are!
Woohoo! My first enable!
There isn’t a lot of crossover between our tastes, Robin, but I *do* love me my spicy scents, so I will have to give this a try. Maybe this will be the scent to keep me going back to the mall to sniff once in a while instead of only ordering niche samples!
Well, you never know — we must have *some* scent in common, right? Maybe it will be Marni.
I don’t think the Venn diagram of our tastes has *nothing* in that middle section, but it’s not very full, either, I think! I suspect that you’re a little more refined than I am.
Seriously doubt it!
Good review! No secret I didn’t like Infusion d’Iris (EDP) but I do like Marni. I think I found it more assertive than Robin did but still very wearable. But my skin type loves and amps spices and woods. BTW, this wood is very “open,” some woody orientals are claustrophobic but this never goes there. I appreciate that.
“Open” is a good way to put it!
Infusion d’Orient. I am ALL OVER this one. I might just buy it unsniffed when it arrives over here.
The doll is creepy. WTF?
Hope it will work for you! Agree, don’t want any doll but particularly don’t like that one.
On the Marni website there is a sort of comic book that has the doll in it: http://www.marni-anticamera.com/03 I like the frame captioned “Home is where your drink is” in which the doll is casually sipping a cocktail through a straw with fashionista pals, holding the cocktail cherries in her other hand.
It’s kind of spooky that Marni had the good taste not to do another fruity floral AND actually succeeded in putting together a sophisticated and wearable perfume in a cute, original bottle. It’s just as well they’ve also got the doll, IMV. Otherwise, beating the odds to such an extent would have created a rift in the perfume-time continuum!
Thanks, I figured the doll probably had some significance for Marni fans.
This sounds like the kind of thing I could wear every day, if I ever wore the same scent two days in a row. Eau des Merveilles used to fill the (extremely useful) sheer-woody niche in my collection, but lately it’s been rubbing me the wrong way — too bad, as it was a longtime favorite. It sounds like Marni is spicier than EdM, but if it works on me, I bet it could serve a similar purpose in my collection.
Much spicier, and a bit more assertive (to me) than EdM, but can see it filling a similar niche.
Oh look, I lLIKE the doll and would be happy to own it (tho’ I’m sure my daughter would take possession pretty quick). I’m normally the one frowning with distaste at the girly packaging that delights other people. She’s kinda cute, kinda evil. Ambiguous. I like that.
Not much chance in Australia that I’ll get to meet her or her perfume, sadly.
And, she’s perfect to stick needles in if one has anger management issues!
Really, you don’t think it will get to Australia?
Well, maybe. Bottega Veneta certainly did, as did Elie Saab, and they were not well-known brands here until then. But Madonna’s Truth or Dare never made it here.
Well, hope you’ll get this one.
In Europe, the whole Marni range is currently available exclusive to the KaDeWe in Berlin. They also have an online shop (kadewe.de) which ships also to other countries.
Thanks so much!
Can’t wait to try this. I have to get myself in gear to try anything that is exclusive to Saks because the one in Dallas is going to close on June 15!!! First Barney’s, now Saks. What’s a perfumista to do?!?!?Thank goodness we still have Needless Markup.
BTW, does anyone know if Prada L’eau Ambree has been discontinued? I am finally interested in it and no one seems to have it anymore.
Found L’eau Ambree on Nordtrom and Neiman’s websites. Only Neiman’s appears to carry original Omnia appears outside of online discounters.
Seriously, Dallas won’t have a Saks or a Barneys? I’m surprised.
And so far as I know, it hasn’t been discontinued, but don’t see it on Prada counters so wonder if it didn’t do well & eventually will be axed.
The universe is conspiring against me to get this perfume, I mean doll, the cugly doll. I was all set to walk over to Saks at lunchtime to buy what I don’t need and a meeting ran 15 minutes over and I couldn’t make it as I sprouted a new unexpected meeting. No problem — I can go after work. Grrrrr, I ended up having to work a lot later than I planned and did not have time to stop by AND I almost missed my train! Oh well, tomorrow’s another day!
Did you manage it today?
Sadly, no, but I am determined to make it there tomorrow!
Made it today and used my gift card to purchase the 10 mL travel spray, errrr, the doll, the doll! I also got to sniff Chanel 1932 – it is quite a lovely scent — not a statement scent but could be a good layering scent.
The 50th and 5th Avenue store windows feature Marni the perfume and several of the designer collection wear (kinda meh in my opinion). I wouldn’t mind owning one of the giant flacons which I would repurpose as a cookie jar!
Now, do you love the scent or just the doll??
Finally, a verdict! Love!
Assuming they want children, if Portrait of a Lady married Jubilation XXV, Marni is the resulting baby
….it is light and surprisingly did not last very long on me (~ 4 hours) whereas the other 2 stick with me like glue, but in a very good way.
Yes! Thank you. Portrait of a Lady! I was wracking my brain trying to remember what Marni reminded me of and that is it! Congrats to Marni… Frederic Malle is not exactly a bad association.
I smelled Marni btw from the test strip that is in the current Vogue (that big thick one with Beyoncé on the cover). I was in the public library of all places and found myself rubbing my wrist around in the magazine and sniffing the page (all as discreetly as possible of course, ha ha!). Quite impressed!
The bottle is adorable and very Marni.
Yep.
Nice bottle, travel size sounds tempting but the doll gives me the willies!
Agree…don’t want a doll in any case, but that one is creepy.
I went to Saks here, and while they didn’t have Marni in stock yet, they were doing presales and had a tester. They also had bell jars with each different accord (woods, spice, rose, and then one with them all combined) so you could smell them separately. It was kind of neat. The SA was nice enough to make a sample for me, and I was wearing it today. Now I’m really wishing I had tried Penhaligon’s Elixir while I was there. I could’ve had a sample of that too.
I second the Santal Majuscule comparison. That was what I thought of too, just without the buttery note in the drydown that SM has. I think it’s the rose that made me think of it. I used up my SM sample so I can’t smell them side by side. I think I need another SM sample.
I do like Marni, though I’m not 100% sure I need to buy it. I mean, I kind of want to, but I have enough other stuff on my definitely-want-to-buy list that I don’t know if I *need* to add this one too. It’s not similar enough to Omnia or Idole to pass it up. It might be similar enough to SM to me that whichever one I like better wins a spot on the list.
Interesting to see all the comparisons since I did not like Santal Majuscule. Wish I’d kept my sample so I could try them together.
Just want to cosign on the staying power! I put on just one spritz and 24 hours later, a gentle but definitely detectable spice was still lingering on my skin. Yet, it was never overpowering. Very impressed!
(Ha, actually I cosign on the rest of the review as well! Longevity was just especially striking.)
Agree, it’s sort of amazing how long it lasts when it’s so light to begin with.
I’m a little late to this post, but I, too, am digging Marni. Something about it reminds me a little of Si de Lolita Lempicka. Wore them side by side yesterday and although they’re not that much alike, they seem to share a similar spirit. Both have a similar soft, incensey-vibe late in the drydown that’s nice. Would love to try the body products one day as well.
I was super lucky and snagged the 4 oz bottle for free during a promotion. I loved it immediately. On me, it very quickly dries down to a sweeter side of the spice, but not too sweet. It’s unique…in a good way! It can be a daily wear (though I rotate through my scents a lot) and it works with my skin chemistry to be sophisticated and feminine. It’s a keeper. If If I ever get through such a huge bottle, I would definitely purchase because I need this in my collection
ok tried this today. the first whiff reminded me of a pocketbook (NOT a purse) that belonged to my “aunt” Lil when I was a little kid that she had a roll-on Avon Topaze in that had broken open and mixed with a pack of Doublemint gum. The mid-notes and dry-down are pleasant but nothing to write home about. I expected more. It reminds me a (very) weak Amarige with pepper added. I expected a roar and got a whimper. It smells like a scent that might be used in facial tissues or feminine hygiene products. Not BAD, but not worth the money. I am disappoint.
It’s just appeared in Holt Renfrew; I smelled it on someone else’s wrist, and it was a pleasant incense/wood scent. Not deeply original, but nicely done, and it would work as a office scent. Yes, perhaps this year’s Bottega Veneta…