Diptyque was one of the first "niche" fragrance houses to edge its way into my consciousness, and I still remember the day I purchased my first bottle of L'Ombre dans L'Eau at a boutique in Philadelphia. (That was eight years ago, and I still wear L'Ombre every summer.) More recently, I wished aloud that Diptyque would create a rose-centered fragrance, and my request has been noted by the fragrance gods and goddesses: Diptyque's newest release is Eau Rose, "a totally new fragrance that pays tribute to the queen of flowers, the rose," with notes of bergamot, blackcurrant, lychee, hedione, geranium, Turkish rose, cedar, musk, and honey.
I must say that Eau Rose's label and box, with their pink-accented illustrations of trellis-climbing roses, are among the prettiest designs I've seen in a long time. They also raised my expectations before I had even smelled the fragrance itself. So, what did I think? According to the description on the Diptyque website, Eau Rose is composed to "to celebrate the multiple aromas of the flower in its natural state, as it blossoms over time." That works for me. Eau Rose begins on a fresh-flower note, with the citrus and black currant giving it a certain brightness while never translating as an obviously "fruity-floral" blend. The heart of the fragrance is a true rose accord, the kind that makes my rose-loving heart skip a beat. It's not deep or velvety or spicy; it's closer to a tea rose than I would have guessed, and it definitely evokes the winsome pink roses on the label rather than a passionate red rose. The dry down has a subdued honey note and some soft musk to keep it from turning too sweet. Eau Rose has good staying power for an Eau de Toilette, and it will be an ideal choice for a spring fragrance a few months from now.
As Victoria recently noted in her own review at Bois de Jasmin, Eau Rose isn't going to change the history of perfumery, but it does a beautiful job of recreating a freshly-picked rose from a sunny garden. I enjoy wearing it in the same way I enjoy wearing my favorites from Les Parfums de Rosine. (In the Rosine "spectrum," it would fall somewhere midway between the airy Diabolo Rose and the lusher Secrets de Rose.) And it's far superior to some of the rose-oriented perfumes that have disappointed me over the past year or so, such as Dolce & Gabbana Rose the One and L'Eau d'Issey Florale. It would be a nice step into niche perfumery for someone who has already enjoyed Stella, or a good acquisition for someone who has used up her last bottle of Creed's discontinued Fleur du Thé Rose Bulgare.
In other words, I like Eau Rose very much and I'm glad to see it join the Diptyque family. (I've heard that it will be a permanent addition, eventually packaged with the traditional Diptyque black-and-white graphics, although the related Rosa Mundi candle is limited edition.) One last note: Diptyque says that Eau Rose was inspired partially by the sixteen-century poet Pierre de Ronsard's verse “Mignonne, allons voir si la rose...", which you can read here (and here, in English translation). Enjoy!
Diptyque Eau Rose Eau de Toilette is available as an 100 ml atomizer bottle ($98, shown at top) or a 20 ml roll-on travel bottle ($48, shown just above). For purchasing information, see the listing for Diptyque under Perfume Houses.