Michelle says she is modern but is drawn to old things, including strong vintage perfumes. She wants to find a new fragrance that smells like the things she loves, but that won’t overpower her colleagues, family or friends. It should work any time, day or night, and cost less than $150. Here is what we know about Michelle:
She’s in her late 30s and has 3 teenage boys, and works as an event manager for a large hotel.
She loves perfume and makeup, and she’s planning for her (second) wedding later in the summer.
She’s also a history buff and says she is “obsessed with the twenties and thirties, literature, historic New York, old hotels and buildings”.
Michelle loves vetiver, chypre perfumes, sandalwood, patchouli and incense. Some of her favorite perfumes include Reminiscence Patchouli Elixir, Yves Saint Laurent Opium, Narciso Rodriguez, Thierry Mugler Angel, Paloma Picasso, Prada (original) and Prada L’Eau Ambree.
Michelle dislikes florals and light fragrances, include Dolce & Gabanna Light Blue, Stella McCartney Stella, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, Ralph Lauren Romance. She also doesn’t like any of the Burberry line, or any of the Bond no. 9 scents other than Cooper Square.
Fragrances she has tried in her search:
Guerlain Jicky ~ a classic “old” smell, but her fiancé doesn’t care for it.
Guerlain Mitsouko ~ she loves how it dries down to something “old yet still kind of mod”.
Molinard Habanita ~ a scrubber; possibly the worst perfume she has ever smelled.
Caron Tabac Blond ~ not heavy enough.
Tokyo Milk French Kiss & Gin and Rosewater ~ she was surprised to find she liked both of them.
What say you?
Note: top image is Kildale Post Box by deargdoom57 at flickr; some rights reserved.
36 Comments
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Field Notes from Paris is a sort Caron fragrance, with Tobacco and orange notes. It is quite reasonable in price.
Ahh, she likes her fragrances to make a statement! While a little quieter than the ones she admires, Guerlain’s Vetiver is a steal. It’s wonderful – the vintage version of it is even better – both are widely available online.
Another to try and they won’t break the bank: the overlooked Estee Lauder Private Collection.
Seconding Private Collection, which to me is kind of a springtime version of Ormonde Jayne Woman (also great).
Also seconding Tauer Une Rose Chypree, my first thought. Get his sample kit if you love incense.
I’m thinking Cuir de Lancome. It’s a wonderful , smooth leather scent. It’s heavy, but stays close to the skin. It has the classic feel of a vintage scent, but somehow smells modern. Like a classic Lamino chair from 1956 with leather sitting.
Perhaps the beautiful Chanel 31 Rue Cambon would fit the bill. It has a classic vibe, yet it’s a modern chypre, and the smaller bottle costs $110.
I agree, and maybe try other chypres, as une rose chyprée ( Andy Tauer) , une folie de rose (Rosine)… I was actually thinking that you should try the whole Andy Tauer line (samples available through his website)
Absolutely, couldn’t agree more, the entire Tauer range must be sampled toute de suite! L’Air du Desert in particular, I am thinking…….
Also, and this just occurred to me, it’s a bit left-of-field but my instincts may be leading me in the right direction…….Le Labo Patchouli 24!! It’s smoky, leathery, incensey, pathcouli with a sweet vanilla kick! And if you like that, try Bulgari Black. Both scents are from Annick Menardo.
Agree on the 31. And give Sycomore a go while you’re at the Chanel counter–lovely smoky vetiver.
And man, Ann. I sort of wish you hadn’t told me the price of the smaller bottles. Now I want one! Or two. Or…
Miss Dior. Period, no “Cherie,” the old one.. Other than online, I think you can try it at Saks and Dior boutiques. I’m not sure how well it will go over in your line of work (around food, etc.) but it does have that historic feel to it.
I also agree with E. L. Private Collection – or any of their classics. They’re all steals in today’s fragrance market. (you may have to ask for it at the counter, they don’t always display the older ones)
I really like French kiss too. To my nose it is a Gucci Rush doppelgänger, which was one of my first loves, but much more affordable. The Rush has better lasting power though, if you want to give it a try. (not a classic though, made in the 90s)
Happy shopping.
I think that Michelle should look into Chanel Les Exclusifs line. The smaller bottles are under $150 and there are a number of great fragrances which should fit the bill.
Sycomore is a stunning vetiver
31 Rue Cambon is a gorgeous chypre which is simultaneously modern and yet reminiscent of classic chypres of past times.
Bois de Iles should satisfy a sandalwood craving.
Coromandel is the most refined, elegant patchouli out there.
No22 is has some incense mixed with aldehydes.
Cuir De Russie is also worth trying. It’s from 1920 and feels like an art deco masterpiece – beautiful and still relevant.
All are distinctive and have good presence without being overpowering.
On the Chanel note, Cristalle also has a gorgeous chypre drydown, and is mod/vintage at the same time. Also, good in the summer by remaining both substantial and fresh.
Ormonde Jayne Woman! Vetiver, cedar, patchouli, sandalwood, with some soft florals (jasmine and violet) and amber rounding it out. Definitely a chypre, unusual but with a classic feel.
Seconding the OJ Woman. It is a very distinctive fragrance, but not overpowering, and the EdP is within the $150 limit.
I have to put in a plug for SSS Champagne de Bois as well. I have seen it classified as a floral aldehyde, but to my nose, it is much warmer and richer than that would imply. It has vetiver, sandalwood, and amber. I think it works well day or night, although not so well in hot weather, as it is really quite potent.
Seconding Champagne de Bois! Great, great scent!!
Champagne de Bois was the first thing I thought of – a beautiful modern scent with a classic feel to it.
Third that one, plus 10 Corso Como, Paestum Rose, Azuree
Maybe give Dior’s Diorella and Dioressence a try. Both lovely Chypres.
I recently tried Jitterbug by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and recommend that to you. I found it to be distint, beautiful and rich, but it is not overpowering and I think it would be suitable for work and evening. Base notes include patchouli, incense and amber; seems up your alley, especially with name giving a nod to history!
Might I recommend Lanvin Arpege? It is a floral aldehyde — don’t let the floral scare you off — with a woodsy base of vetiver, sandalwood & patchouli. It’s also a very classic, elegant perfume & Rita Hayworth’s signature scent. I’m actually wearing it today at the office and it’s really a scent that transitions really well into evening.
If you can, try to find a vintage bottle off eBay — mine’s from the mid-60s. There’s a surprising surplus of vintage unopened bottles to be found and they’re generally inexpensive. I believe I paid around $35 for mine.
I guess you have a passport for Bandit
Lots of good recs here already–seconding all the Chanels and the Ormonde Jayne.
For unusual but not intrusive, you might also try some of the Comme des Garcons–Palisander (wooden spice box), Sequoia (fresh split wood with a drizzle of rum), or perhaps one from the incense line, Zagorsk (winter forests and Russian churches) or Ourzazate (warm wood, gentle dry spice).
Another option would be to try solids, or the extrait version of something you already love, since they will stay relatively close to the skin. On that front, you must give the solid of Habanita a try (velvety tobacco and leather). And while they’re pricey, many of the natural perfumes from Roxana Villas have a modern take on the lovely old chypre vibe and solids would be in your price range. She’s on Etsy, and the samples are a good deal.
Oops, strike that Habanita. Though, I dunno, the solid has a lot less powder on me, and is closer to what I thought Tabac Blond would be.
I have to recommend Andy Tauer’s Une Rose Chypree which, on me at least, is not terribly rosy. It’s sultry and elegant and oakmossy and
is best described as a modern vintage perfume.
I’d recommend another classic Guerlain, that great Art Deco scent, Vol de Nuit – preferrably the older versions available on eBay.
Also, give Solange Cosmic a try – it has a very classic chypre vibe. My great discovery of 2010.
my recs: Chanel Cuir de Russie, OJ Woman, Ava Luxe Chypre Noir, Caron Narcisse Noir. AND CdG Daphne (can get a samp at luckyscent- I think you might love it- good luck
I second the Ormonde Jayne Woman recommendation. Also the quirky Niki de Saint Phalle, a fantastic old-style chypre that can be purchased for very little money at online auction sites.
I second Niki de St Phalle. A gorgeous old chypre and very cheap on the discount sites!
I’ll second/third/ on Sycomore.
I’ll also go out on a limb and suggest Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur for the smooth suede and classy drydown. L’Artisan Traversee du Bosphore is slightly gourmand but has a lovely amber/tobacco Orient Express feel.
CdG 2 could be interesting as is White, although that one might be too oddly floral. 2 has a better incense drydown.I am so happy to find a fellow Paloma Picasso fan – so underrated!
Givenchy III-a beautiful classic chypre-oakmoss and patchouli. This one has been brought back and you can find it online at Parfum1.
Dioressence-I’ve never been able to smell the original, but even the modern rendition is lovely. (Another oak moss and patchouli).
Miss Dior-another gorgeous chypre-just so classy.
Daphne by CdG-a floral incense-worthy of a sniff
SSS Incense Pure
Baghari, Bandit are such beautiful classics.
Bois 1920 Sutra Ylang-lovely sandalwood
Vintage Guerlain Samsara-even better sandalwood
Thank you everyone for your wonderful suggestions. I am SO excited at the possibilities. I saw Bandit come up a few times and I almost bought the sample last night but I figured after my disappointment with Habinata, I would hold off until I read your comments. I have quite the list to go through but believe me, I will try and try each and every suggestion. Thank you for your thoughtful responses. This is why Now Smell This is my absolute fave!! I will keep you posted.
Aromatics Elixir by Clinique
Avignon and Kyoto by Comme Des Garçons
Bois D’Encens by Armani
Eau Du Soir by Sisley
First by VanCleef And Arpels
Mitsuoko and Shalimar by Guerlain…
Another vote for Chanel Sycomore and OJ Woman! Also thumbs up for Lalique Encre Noire ( I think there is now a female version of that too)
Another recommendation of Une Rose Chyprée. Just so beautiful!
Otherwise, the most ’30s fragrance I have ever come across is Frederic Malle’s Une Fleur de Cassie. It’s not a chypre, but worth trying.
Chanel’s 31 rue Cambol is a beautiful chypre, as is Piguet’s Bandit.
You might want to try Mona di Orio’s Carnation — again, not a skin scent, but probably in the vein you are seeking.
Otherwise, I would suggest trying Halston — even vintage can be had for quite a bargain. The perfumer was the same for both Halston and Aromatics Elixir, but I think Halston is more wearable, although I love both. Mind you, when you have smelled a fine vintage Mitsouko, which really is the head of the class, well… Stick with Mitsouko!
Oops! Carnation is not a CHYPRE, but rather (not sure how to describe it) but a masterful portrayal of beautifully scented skin.
Cuir de Russie, Chanel
Bois de Iles, Chanel
Sycomore, Chanel
Chanel 19
Chamade, Guerlain
Arpege, Lanvin
curious to hear what you’ll find!