Tauer Perfumes captured my attention when it described Orange Star as a rich citrus fragrance with a clean orange flower in its heart. That statement is partly true — but citrus and orange blossom are but fleeting elements of the Orange Star “story.”
Created by perfumer Andy Tauer, Orange Star contains notes of clementine, red mandarin, lemongrass, orange and violet flowers, ambergris, soft woods, vanilla, patchouli, and cistus (Ambreine). Orange Star starts off with syrupy (sweet) citrus aromas (this is not sparkling or “fresh” citrus) blending with a slightly bitter lemongrass note — a very lush, but fast-fading, opening. The orange blossom in Orange Star’s mid-development is neither twee (nor too clean)…it’s roughed up, and quickly subdued, by cistus. As with many Tauer fragrances, there is a long-lasting dry-down of incense-y wood notes and potent amber (with lots of vanilla, patchouli and ‘leathery’ cistus). The Tauer Perfumes base is very distinctive and strong (similar in endurance and intensity to Montale’s oud base); it often overwhelms the head and heart notes in Tauer fragrances. During Orange Star’s extreme dry-down, all notes soften and veer towards “powdery,” but powdery in a good way — you won’t choke on powder, you’ll feel “polished” by it.
Orange Star smells “dressy” and handsome — a tad conservative. When I smell it, I think of a Victorian gentleman (or lady) who is beautifully dressed and groomed: bathed with a bar of Eau de Cologne soap, powdered with an orange blossom talc, anointed with strong amber perfume (and whose frock smells faintly of fireplace smoke).
Orange Star has excellent (verging on ‘miraculous’) lasting power and sillage — even with just one spritz; if you don’t like powerhouse perfumes, stay away from Orange Star. Depending on your tastes (or climate), Orange Star may be too potent and rich for summer wear.
Tauer Perfumes Orange Star Eau de Parfum is $120 for 50 ml — in my opinion, a lifetime supply; for buying information see the listing for Tauer Perfumes under Perfume Houses.
Note: top image is The Traveling Companions by Augustus Leopold Egg [cropped] via Wikimedia Commons.