A very kind person sent me a sample of Guerlain’s Cologne du 68 last year, some time after it had launched in France back in 2006. I liked it, so I put it on my “to buy” list. Mind you, my “to buy” list isn’t really a list of things I actually mean to purchase; it’s more a list of things I’d like to have in my collection and that I might hypothetically be willing to spend some hypothetical amount of money on in some hypothetical future. At the time, Cologne du 68 was only sold in Paris, and only in a 490 ml bottle for 180€, so the likelihood that it would ever grace my perfume shelves was pretty much nil.
Fast forward to 2008. As part of their 180th anniversary celebrations, Guerlain has now issued Cologne du 68 (named for their address on the Champs Elysées) in a 100 ml bottle, and it can be had at your local Neiman Marcus for $100. I went to visit it there to see if it was worth having now that it was affordable (at least in the relative sense), decided it was not, and promptly bought it anyway. Serves me right, doesn’t it? My advice: don’t go hanging around the Guerlain counter if you don’t want to spend money.
Cologne du 68 was developed by perfumer Sophie Labbé. It’s supposed to have 68 notes*, and who knows, perhaps it does. It’s essentially a classic citrus-based cologne blended with creamy florals and light gourmand notes. It incorporates elements of the traditional Guerlain base — just enough to lend it some depth and lasting power, but not so much as to weigh it down: it’s very mild, so much so that you just about can’t apply too much. It’s nicely done, and very pleasant to wear. Someone on one of the fragrance forums** recently described it as charming, and that’s exactly what it is: charming. It’s the sort of thing you could wear anywhere, anytime, and in fact, I’ve worn it quite a bit since buying it.
If you’ve got a gaping hole in the “charming everyday cologne” category in your fragrance collection, Cologne du 68 is very much worth a try. For my part, I had “charming everyday cologne” pretty well covered already, and I can’t say I think Cologne du 68 is worth the rather steep price tag for what is essentially a pleasant little cologne. It does last longer than the traditional Guerlain Eaux, but then, those at least come in the lovely Guerlain bee bottles.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s new Tuscan Soul also starts with the elements of a classic citrus-based cologne, but goes off in a different direction: they’ve extended the sillage and lasting power with a big ole’ fresh note (the perfumer was Pierre Bourdon, and the notes are bergamot, petit grain, magnolia blossom, orange blossom, iris flower and fig tree). I understand the idea for Tuscan Soul emerged out of some scented amenity kits Ferragamo had developed for Singapore Airlines, and it’s easy to believe: after a nicely sharp herbal-citrus start, it fizzles out to a clean, bland woody musk at such a rapid pace that you’d be hard pressed to annoy your seat-mate even in economy class. It’s closer to inoffensive than most dryer sheets, and Guerlain’s Cologne du 68 virtually smolders on the skin in comparison. Tuscan Soul seems to be targeted at the Asian market, and perhaps it will do quite well there. For all I know it will do well here too — I don’t even pretend to know what will sell anywhere — but it seems at odds both with the sexy advertising and the brand’s assertion that it “embodies our whole heritage, and represents our DNA in a bottle”.
Guerlain Cologne du 68 is $100 for 100 ml Eau de Toilette. It seems to be exclusive to Neiman Marcus at the moment and I do not know if wider distribution is planned. [Note: see Obliterrati's comment below; it is also at Saks Fifth Avenue.] Ferragamo Tuscan Soul is available in 40, 75 and 125 ml Eau de Toilette.
* The notes for Cologne du 68 are bergamot, green mandarin, citron, clementine, cedrat, blood orange, limette, grapefruit, basil, fennel, star anise, lavender, bay leaf, cypress, elemi, thyme, myrtle, bigarade, mandarin petitgrain, lemon petitgrain, pear, violet leaves, ivy leaves, gentiana, sap, blackcurrant, freesia, lily of the valley, hazelnut leaf, cyclamen, cardamom, coriander, black pepper, pink pepper, nutmeg, ginger, jasmine, frangipani, magnolia, orange blossom, peony, rose, carnation, ylang ylang, lychee, fig, blackberry, immortelle, lentisque, opoponax, amber, benzoin, vanilla, cistus, heliotrope, iris, tonka bean, sage, musk, patchouli, agarwood, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, vegetable musk, praline, myrrh and moss.
** As usual, I’ve forgotten where I read it or who said it. My apologies.
52 Comments
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Such a true statement, I've never been able to visit a Guerlain (or Hermes/Chanel) counter without making a purchase……
It's like my little internal voice of reason jumps out the window into the fragrant abyss below.
In other words, No. 68 has everything but the kitchen sink in it!
A lovely fragrance friend sent me a sample, and I am wearing it today. (See, great minds are always in synch, R!) Of the supposed list of sixty eight notes, they have me at clementine, although I do detect some sap and a hint of the heliotrope, tonka bean, praline mix.
Very inoffensive, clean and, well, charming indeed.
Would I spring for a bottle? Maybe not, because the lasting power is just okay, and it requires several spritzings throughout the day.
But I sure would welcome another generous sample!
Hugs!
Hey R- thanks for the review and the lowdown on the “68 notes”. I was also very tempted by this fragrance about a month ago- and I came pretty close to buying it…I think it is refreshing and something I would definitely reach for a lot in the spring and summer (and probably even fall)- I will put it on my own imaginary “to buy” list and see what happens
That's a LOT of notes. Did you count to make sure there are 68, lol? Alas, I have absolutely no gaping holes in the “charming everyday cologne” category, but of course I'm curious to sniff this. You always surprise with your impulse buy choices! What happened to Diorissimo?!
Guerlain, however, captured some of my bank account last week as well because I caved and bought 30ml of Mitsouko EDP online at a price I couldn't resist. I'd been loving my decant lately, and everyone needs an original bottle of Mitsouko in their cupboard… right?
R, my guess is that if they'd stuck this in the bee bottle — even in the cheaper version of the bee bottle they use for the Aqua Allegorias, and sold it at $50 for 50 ml, they'll sell a million of them. I wouldn't be second guessing my purchase at all under that scenario. But in this dull bottle for $100, it seems like a reach.
I did not count! And guessing nobody else will either, LOL, so it's ok if something is missing.
I surprise myself with my impulse buy choices. I really will be quite disgusted if I don't get my Diorissimo soon.
But yes, everybody needs some Mitsouko!
I'm so sorry the Posse is still down!
Tuscan Soul really is massively misnamed — or at least, it only describes the first few minutes.
And no idea on the Kenzo, sorry! I want it too.
We miss the Posse!!
I don't think it's a reach, because it is a lot of well-done juice at $100. And at today's prices, especially for these other Guerlains that are debuting for hundreds, even thousands of dollars, I still think it's a good value. Not great, but good.
However, you may be right about cutting the size and putting it into their regular spray bee bottles. At $50. a pop, I would buy a bottle.
It's actually growing on me, but I do have other bergamots, like Divine Bergamot and AG Neroli, etc., etc., that I like just as much and already own.
Thanks for the info, Robin! I was browsing around looking for Iris Nobile in the edt, and saw that NM had the 68 featured on their fragrance section. It sounds like it is worth a sniff. I will be in Union Square SF this weekend for the Nike Womens Marathon, and I will hunt it down. No I am not running it, but walking the Half. This will be my 3rd year doing it. Lots of fun! AND the medal is a little sterling silver charm necklace from TIffany's. SWEET! :~)
oops…frustratingLY… '~)
Oh, the Posse is back up…yea!!!
It's true I guess that compared to other Guerlains, it isn't a bad value. I still think $100 is too much, but I'm cheap
Hey, I'm impressed even with walking the half — hope it's a great day!
Thank you, Dear. The weather is supposed to be nice.
For being a fragrance that consists of 68 different notes, I'd expect it to be a bit MORE than just a simple, charming cologne… Simple scents don't need to have tens of different notes if they are not suppost to be complicated. That price tag is not exciting either.
On looking at #68 notes, I got citrus grove, flower gardens and beef stew. I hope the dinner spices aren't the things that shine through.
There are so many notes I love in it. I'm afraid because I purchased some Isabella Rossellini's Manifesto with basil and I felt a little like lasagna… impulse purchase gone wrong.
However, you being a mostly floral person, how much of the food notes do you smell? what do they do?
no offence.
Joy,
-Becca
I don't think a cologne w/ 68 notes is unusual — it's more that it's unusual to tell the customers about that many.
The “dinner spices” are subtle, but you'll get some creamy caramel-ish, almost nutty notes in the drydown. Those are subtle too though.
So what fills the “charming everyday cologne” category in your perfume closet, R?
I wondered the same as ahtx, Robin.
Put me in the wondering category as well.
And “you'd be hard pressed to annoy your seat-mate even in economy class” brought back repressed memories of a 13 hour flight from Dubai to JFK on Emirates and the gaggingly sweet-smelling soap in the bathrooms that passengers slathered on with abandon. Oh.Dear.God. Fantastic airline; if only they'd do something about that ghastly smell.
Sorry you don't like Manifesto. It was one of my first perfume purchases and I still love it. If you'd like to swap it for something, let me know on MUA: I'm sondra23.
Giggles, Aparatchik …sounds like a perfume lovers flight from hell.
Sorry, I would if I could. It is so old it has turned, changed color and is growing it's on basil. I wonder why I'm keeping that bottle? I thought it was out of production–Becca
All Right soups on!
I was hoping that's what they did. I hope the perfumed court will get a bottle.
With 68 notes, a lot of them must be supporting players.
Thanks ; D
Did you check? I'd think TPC would already have it, it's been out a couple years.
The first that comes to mind is Eau de Givenchy, although I should note that Luca Turin calls it screechy — so not everyone finds it so
Thank goodness for that, running in the cold & fog is no fun!
Hi Robin,
I've been tempted by 68 at Saks in NYC, so it must not be exclusive to NM. They also had the Eau de Lit which I thought was absolutely lovely for the bargain price of about $60, though I thought the clear plastic label looked a little cheap for the otherwise super-refined house of Guerlain. Guerlain excells not so much because they break new ground, but exactly as you describe on their ability to create charming, wearable and mood lifting scents. They are one of my all time favorite houses.
Thanks so very much — will fix the article. Have heard great things about Eau de Lit, wish there was a Saks near me, would like to try it.
Thanks Robin for a great review and a good laugh
If it's any consolation at all I'm perfectly sure I would have done the same, ie decided I didn't need it but bought it anyway. This is one I'm quite interested in (there being such a hole in my collection!) and it's Guerlain for heavens sake. I do not dare get on the Eurostar to Paris whilst sterling is such pants against the euro and am mighty glad Bergdorf G is a looooong waaay away. Otherwise the damage I would do is eye watering to imagine…..
I'm curious about something I'm sure you can clear up for me. Somewhere, but I can't remember where, I read that 68 was 'the same as' the discontinued AA Winter Delice. Is there any truth in this? Are there even any vague similarities?
And I smelled Tuscan Soul today. I grinned at it but only because you were right about it being ideal for airplanes – the Amenity Kit was a good place for it.
Glad I'm not the only one so pathetically susceptible! Will keep my fingers crossed that you don't run into 68 until the exchange rate improves.
Had to go look up my notes on WD, and have to say no, they're not close. WD is very pine-y & Christmas-y in the top notes, then lots of gingerbread & incense. Also much heavier than this — verging on “perfume-y”. I don't see the connection at all, although there are a few common notes. Are you sure it was WD and not another of the AAs? Although offhand can't think of which it would be.
After reading about the 68 being in all stores I went to try it out today at the store (Denbenhams, UK), but I have resisted buying it… yet. To me it's got a sparkling fruity beginning… then quickly it's seems like several bottles of guerlain perfumes are all bundled together in a very packed train that is pulling away from a platform, I was standing on the platform and each of them was waving to say hi to me competing for my attention… I think I saw Jicky, Apres L'Ondee, and Shalimar… The drydown is a bit quieter, very vanilla-y, reminds me quite a bit of Shalimar Light, except that it is sweeter and a tad spicier. Overall I think it's great because it's quite a lot of fun wearing it, I'll definitely get a bottle before the year is up.
I think the 68 notes are written on the bottle, isn't it? If my memory serves me right, when I saw the 490ml bottle at 68 Champs Elysées it has got all 68 notes written on the bottle's label. With a much smaller bottle at 100ml they probably have ran out of space and therefore skipped it altogether?
Nope, they're all written on the 100 ml bottle too. Agree it smells like they tried to incorporate elements of the classic Guerlains.
SFLizbeth, it was perfect…overcast, but not foggy and cool but not cold. Thanks for fixing the weather for us there in SF. '~)
I did go to NM to sniff the 68 and ended up with my first bottle of Mitsouko edp instead. I may eventually get the 68 because I liked it…but I LOVED the Mitsouko.
As for the 'race', I acheived a PW (personal worst) walking 13.1 in just under 5 hours, but I FINISHED and I got my tiffany necklace from a gorgeous SF fireman. They line up at the finish and hand out the Tiffany medals…so cool!
Well, this post is nowhere near where I intended it to go.
Wow. There's a 490ml bottle? That's enough juice for a lifetime supply!
Anytime!
I ran Bay To Breakers once in the cold and fog. My poor legs never warmed up. These creaky bones do much better in the warm sunshine.
Huge congrats!!! That's great. And worthy of Mitsouko
After your review appeared, my local Niemann's sold out of this! I only today got around to sniffing it, thinking maybe at last I'd find a Guerlain I could like. But no. It's very nice; I admire it, but don't care for the spice/vanilla notes.
Well, that's another $100 saved, right?
I discovered this bottle in my BFF bath, and she has maybe three scents? she hardly spents so much money on that I thought.
I sprayed it on her towel and dreamed that night how this scnet smells. Crazy, I know. Next day I took a bath in her cologne – while she borrowed my Kelly Caleche I left (on purpose) in her bath.
I love the tonka bean and vanilla mix, it is just not too sweet and too much. Unfortunately it is sold out.
It will get restocked, I’d guess!
Hey, guess what, a call from a sales rep to Guerlian brought me a bottle directly from France! They had some left. So I will get one next week.
I guess it will be restocked though, because it sold pretty good.
So, this will be my first cologne. I do not think it smells like cologne though. I really love it – it will be a present to myself for my hopefully passed exam on the 22nd.
Oh, I am really happy and looking forward to it!
Oh, congrats! I don’t think it smells like a classic cologne either, but it’s so light it sort of fits the same bill.
Oh I felt really like I had an accident after I spent the 80 Euro.
It’s a lot. I was worrying why I did not buy Sensuous for half the price.
But after bathing in 68 I knew it. It’s so nice and has so many facettes, the warmth, the spices, some freshness from the slight cologne touch. it’s so elegant and comforting, so special, I am pretty happy about it.
Oh, you know what I said to my boyfriend (he’s name is Robin, also)?
That Robin of NST said it’s a must-have on colognes and I do not have any cologne at all.
He had to laugh. Well, if Robin said…
Oh there is a grammar mistake: His name is Robin.
Sorry for my typos.
No worries! Glad you’re liking the 68. I like it too, and it’s probably less well known that Sensuous, so there’s another justification for the expense