Coffee and I go waaaaaay back. I grew up in a household where I had no set time for bed and no restrictions on what I read or watched on TV. I could also eat and drink what I liked (I was not allowed to drink, let’s say, whiskey or beer openly, but when I’d admit taking a nip here or there I was not punished). I would start my day with a cup of coffee — even in first grade (my grandmother thought coffee, cream and sugar were ‘health foods.’) My free-style childhood and almost constant high approval ratings by my parents and live-in grandmother have contributed to some character “flaws” to be sure (a famous L.A. psychic looked at my palm once and proclaimed: “I see…Buckingham Palace!”) and my early coffee consumption no doubt made me what I am today: a man immune to the effects of caffeine.
Still, I love the scents and flavors of coffee: fresh coffee beans, roasting coffee beans (an aroma you can easily experience in Seattle), brewing coffee, percolating coffee, espresso, coffee in chocolates, ice cream, cakes, cookies and custards. I never thought I would like the scent of coffee on my person. The idea of wearing a coffee perfume made me queasy, until I sampled Thierry Mugler’s A*Men Pure Coffee. Almost as much as I detest A*Men, I enjoy A*Men Pure Coffee.
A*Men Pure Coffee was developed by perfumers Jacques Huclier and Christine Nagel and it contains Arabica coffee, patchouli, musk, moss, cedar and vetiver. A*Men Pure Coffee opens with a deep, roasted coffee bean note and segues to a dark chocolate accord. Slowly, A*Men Pure Coffee’s chocolate ‘dissolves’ into a sweet liquid coffee aroma. I can detect hints of coffee and chocolate from start to finish but as A*Men Pure Coffee develops on my skin, I also smell mellow cedar, musk and vetiver. As I wore A*Men Pure Coffee, I would ask people how they liked my perfume. This fragrance got raves from everyone and I was surprised that only a few “sniffers” detected the chocolate or coffee notes immediately. The usual response to A*Men Pure Coffee was: “I recognize something…but WHAT IS IT?” When I’d reveal “coffee” and “chocolate”…all screamed: “YES!”
The moment I put on A*Men Pure Coffee I thought: “This will go great with Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental.” I was right; both of the perfumes become more interesting and complex when layered. I hate buying 100 ml bottles of any fragrance and I also hate buying wintry scents in spring, but after smelling A*Men Pure Coffee layered with my Vetiver Oriental I may have to buy a bottle. (A*Men Pure Coffee is only sold in a 100 ml size spray bottle/$65.)
Thierry Mugler A*Men Pure Coffee is a limited edition fragrance and will be available in the U.S. from mid-April thru the summer. (Why are all the recent men’s limited edition fragrances so much better than the permanent offerings in the same line?)
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Yep, seems like a weird limited edition to release in April – this sounds like it would hit the spot in late fall. Unlike you, I love the original Angel Men, and will have to go sniff this one ASAP. Your description reminds me of another favorite – New Haarlem – with the coffee, woods and musk.
Sariah: it is frustrating…if I do buy this it will sit on my shelf till October!
nattygold: I wish I had a sample of NH to sniff; I tried it when it came out and if I remember correctly these two are similar. I think I may like the Mugler better. Maybe someone else will be able to comment on the two….
Wow…well…on a lighter note. I'm a dentist (and perfumaholic,of course) and I think some people still subscribe to the beliefs held in ancient times. Might I suggest some brushing and flossing…or at least a gargle with a gourmand fragrance??!! Loved your article and I can't get enough of this website!!
WHOOPS…this was supposed to be in response to the article on hygiene by Marcello….I guess I could use some COFFEE…
I must try this. I love coffee and the twist it puts on whatever I am wearing to have freshly ground coffee in the same room. I loved L'Or de Torrente and Bond's coffee scent as well as Finjan and the Ava Luxe coffee scents. I hope they have this in my local Nordstrom.
Cait: they should have a tester at least…the fragrance won't be available to buy till later in the month (at my Nordstrom anyway).
Kevin, you are wonderful. I was in such bad humor today (car broke down, etc.) until I read your post. Buckingham Palace, LOL! I suspect that on a clear day, a good psychic might see all the chateaux of the Loire Valley in my palm…
I love a shot of coffee in my perfume…Kyoto I thought was beautiful, and this winter I have been wearing DSH Cafe Noir more than any other fragrance. So I will be *very* interested in trying this one.
this was lighter and softer than i expected. more hazelnut creamer and mocha cake than full-on dark coffee. for many, it will be much more wearable than a*men. but overall, i found it a bit dull. not my cup of tea, so to speak.
Ooh, your review definitely clenches it for me, K. A*Men sans post-coffee halitosis, wow!
Off-topic, but still oh-so relevant: I may be on to the identity of your Italian Mystery Perfume (no, I haven't been able to get it out of my head!). I was cleaning out my desk the other day when I stumbled on a bunch of creased papers where I write down perfume notes for upcoming launches. And then it hit me – note by note, it was like comfortably deciphering a letter in an ancient language: smoked tea (check), leather (check), spices and florals(check), BONE dry (check), date of launch neatly coinciding with your trip to Italy (check). I totally forgot about trying it briefly last summer but do distinctly remember that, although the heat did little for me to enjoy the fragrance, I could appreciate the quality ingredients and the dry-as-hell woods and dark, smoky tea. Haven't tried it ever since. Please, don't tell me that you've already smelled it and that it isn't COURVOISIER L'Edition Impériale! (talk about building suspense, eh?
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Great review!
The coffee/chocolate combo is quite delectable – it reminded me most of one of those mocha Frappuccino's that every so often I indluge in, at Starbucks.
However, I found AMPC a little too similar to A Men, which I loved to death many years ago.
Am I the only one that thinks this smells like a fall/winter scent, not a Spring/Summer one?
I have a waiting list of customers wanting the new A*Men Pure Coffee – no one cares that it's Spring. We've been playing with the tester for a month now; hope to see it by the end of the month! PS – I've been wearing it, too!
Oddly enough, the thing I most enjoyed about this article was your description of the way you were brought up. “my free-style childhood and almost constant approval ratings” is just wonderful, both the words and, to me, the concept.
You also make this scent sound delicious and absolutely necessary. I love coffee too in all its incantations and find it to be a fragrance redolent of my mother who loved coffee the same way I do. I have to at least get a sample of this.
Thanks for a wonderful review.
I'm definitely interested in hearing opinions on how these compare. Am up for a bottle of one, but which..?
Annunziata: so many coffee fragrances…maybe I should look at others before I “commit” to Pure Coffee for the winter?
Minette: for someone who wants “PowerCoffee” this may be too creamy…I wonder if I could TAKE stronger coffee?
DUSAN: SUCH SUSPENSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now I must figure out how I can get my hands on this scent! I bet it's not available in the US. You realize you've sentenced me to many sleepless nights don't you?
Joe: I love the smoky tea of the Green/Leaves CdG series and the tea like notes of Duel by Annick Goutal…I'm a HUGE fan of tea scents too. And DO try Pure Coffee…remember, many people I let sniff it could NOT place “coffee” till I told them it was in there…and it's a nice oriental fragrance.
Mike: it is VERY 'winter' to me…I can't imagine anyone wearing this is hot weather.
Erin: and you know the Limited Edition stuff is still not over: up comes the Aramis Classic Reserve which sounds GOOD. Isn't it awful? And all these come in 100 ml ONLY…
bartamy: we all must buy this stuff NOW. I bet few of the limited editions, if any, will make it to discounters. A boon for regular retail?
clarestella: you're welcome…AND Nordstrom has been very generous with the PureCoffee (and Chanel Edition Blanche) samples this spring.
Thanks for the tip about applying right out of the shower – hadn't heard it before!
Kevin, I don't know if it will ever make its way to the discounters. I did find a DC'ed LE Angel (the red one) at TjMaxx once – I snapped it up and my husband and son wear it occasionally.
Desmondorama: I'm also in Australia and did a Web search for this fragrance yesterday, but no joy. Let me know if you stumble across it! Otherwise I'll be picking up this OR New Haarlem on one of my next few overseas trips: will be in HK and London later this month and I believe NH is available in both cities, then in the US in May, which might be best option so I can compare both fragrances side-by-side.
Still not available? Gosh, sowry… I'll see if I can procure a sample somewhere and then pass it on.
desmondorama: I hope you enjoy it…perhaps a spritz or two at the casino late at night will revive you? I'm far from a “chemist” but wouldn't the skin be more alkaline after a shower due to most soaps? And the skin would become more “acidic” as one perspires, etc? may be off base and if someone knows I'm a fool about this DO write in. HA! But scents do smell different when applied right after bathing…than if put on hours afterwards.
kevin – i'm not sure it would be pleasant to wear anything stronger than this – you know how coffee smells funky when you spill it on yourself? it might be like that.
i think it works for what it is because it has that creamy mocha cake-hazelnut feel. it's a little fluffy. if it developed more, and moved into other notes, i might like it more. but it just kinda sits on my skin like a slice of tiramisu. – minette
dUSAN: I just found a $3 sample at Lucky Scent…I'll let you know what I think when it gets here. K
Yay! Oh I so hope it is *the one*
wouldn't want to put your $3 to waste!
This sounds like a good one for after 09.00 p.m. in any season. Still very much Thierry Mugler: gourmand, the good life.
A good glas of champagne would go well when wearing A*Men Pure Coffee, or fine French cognac.
No coffee for me in a fragrance though or chocolate.
I'd rather have a salty Eau des Merveilles.
Sounds interesting… like you Kevin I am not a big fan of the original A*Men, but this one has me intrigued! I wondered what, apart from SL's VO, you think might also layer well with this. Thinking scents with cardamom, clove etc or vanilla/caramel might make good combos?
Santemon: yes, and ambery scents should go well with it too.
Marianne: cognac would be a nice addition….
This new one sounds great but how does this new coffee frag compare with: Wood Coffee from CdG?
I love coffee smell too so I tries the CdG… MISTAKE!
I spent the whole day smelling as though i had droped my Starbucks on my lap on my way to work. Not quite the aura I wanted to give off.
plat15: I believe PureCoffee is smoother, with other smells besides coffee apparent in the mix…
I got mine today and it just perfect. It has Terry Muglier signature, an excentric and very trendy fragrance, smell delicious and it is not overpowering. I just fall in love with it inmediately.
Discovered this one hidden away on the bottom shelf (!) of the duty-free shop in Copenhagen airport few days ago. My first encounter with Pure Coffee, as it's not yet appeared in Australia (and probably won't, being a 'limited edition' and all that).
It's brilliant – everything I expected and so much more. Spritzed on a test strip and my wrists and kept going back to them during the flight, noticing how the initial thick coffee note quickly deepened into something richer, with a deliciously burnt yet slightly sweet edge — maybe something caramelized?
I didn't buy it, though, as I'm going to the US next week on a quick business trip so figured I'd be able to pick it up there. Alas, Sephora is doing 'online only' with free delivery but out of stock, and I'll be stuck at a 'resort hotel' miles from the main city (Orlando), so will have to hope there are _some_ local depot stores stocking it, or arrange a detour to one of the big malls on my way to or from the airport.
djsflynn: try the Florida Mall in Orlando, there's a Nordstrom there: 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Suite #900
Orlando, FL 32809
(407) 888-7889
Thanks for that — will be sure to make a detour on the way to/from the airport. I've just checked out the Florida Mall website and they've also got Saks Fifth Avenue, which means I can compare Pure Coffee to Bond No 9 New Haarlem — although at four times the price, the Bond No 9 would need to bloody _outstanding_ …
Well, I was able to compare A*Men Pure Coffee to Bond No 9 New Haarlem, and ended up going for the Bond! I was really knocked out by A*Men, especially how it seemed to develop this lovely 'burnt' (roasted or caramelised?) edge as it settled in. But the Bonds just outclassed it IMHO, especially through the middle notes and a wonderfully persistent drydown stage that's been on my hand now for 8+ hours, and after hands being washed it's still there.
I tried to resist, and to ask myself if it was THAT much better in terms of the price, but I decided to treat/indulge myself, give in and enjoy it! No doubt if I'd not heard of the Bond or had only experienced A*Men, I'd have bought that and been totally happy with it.
The chap at the Saks counter also showed me a Bonds with an orange/tangerine note which he lightly layered atop the New Haarlem, to a fantastic result! But one massive perfume purchase was enough for me…
djsflynn: thanks for reporting…I can imagine New Haarlem going well with oranges. I was so tempted to buy Pure Coffee but have decided I like my coffee a bit more in the background. Two Bonds in one day WOULD have felt decadent wouldn't it?
Well I'm female, and not really that interested in male perfumes, let alone actually would consider wearing them nor even testing them. BUT after reading this review I so bad want to smell this. If it smeels good, I would wish they would make a female version of it.
If New Haarlem is better than A*Men Pure Coffee, then that's one less fragrance to buy, as I have Rochas Man, and I feel the Rochas is much better than the Bond No. 9.
I'd still like to try the Pure Coffee though – it hasn't appeared in stores in Ireland yet.
(This will go great with Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental) and (Bond No 9 New Haarlem) is better. . .these are the comments I love to read. My husband would like a gift of Pure Coffee for Father's Day, but I did a smell comparison with Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque. Hard for a dept. store frag to compete with S. L.! thanks!
Anja: act fast to try this…if TM sticks to plan it will start disappearing in late summer.
JanAlways: hmmm…wonder IF it will appear in Ireland at this late date? I would have bet you would have gotten it first, before the U.S.
StarAngel: Well, get your hubby what HE likes, but I'd choose Fumerie Turque too! HA!
I could not WAIT to smell this… I was beside myself with excitement and impatience!!
I find at first spray the fragrance seems a bit “messy” in that it is as if I have sprayed two stand-alone, unrelated scents onto the same spot. I'm staunchly against “layering” so to get this distinct separation in the one fragrance is quite odd. On the one hand there is fresh, freesia, green, floral accord. Then of course there is the coffee, caramel, creme brulee heart & fond that is beautiful. I love it! I love the way they have achieved this candied, toasty coffee scent without making the perfume sickeningly sweet or roasted and burnt.
This one really lived up to all the hype! I could wear this! I don't care if it's meant for men!
lol, Kevin, I totally agree with your “Why are all the recent men’s limited edition fragrances so much better than the permanent offerings in the same line?”
i just got an email from thierry mugler introducing their new a*men called pure malt! im so excited to try it!!! i loved pure coffee! heres what the site has to say about it…”AMEN Pure Malt
An innovation in perfumery, Pure Malt honors the tradition of Scotland’s peaty Whiskies with its smoky and sensual woody accents. The result is a surprising fragrance of elegance and sophistication in which several malts collide, exciting the senses and revealing a truly noble and refined masculinity.” cant wait!
jonr951: I heard about Pure Malt last winter when I happened to be in Nordstrom when they got the PR packet. I love the description…hope the fragrance is good.
I’ve bought this today on the strength of my love for Angel a few years back, even if it was the womens’ fragrance (didn’t know about the mens). It was heavily marked down from it’s orignal price, so I figured with my own love for coffee, this should be a delight.
Obsernity, where did you find this Heavily marked down from the original pricce????? Help!
Drat! I’m PISSED I missed out on this fragrance! Any chance I might still be able to find this in stores, Kevin????? Please say yes!
APassionate Journey: I doubt it…you may have better luck with AMen PureMalt, which is very nice too. I found a bottle PureCoffee by asking a Nordstrom SA to search other stores for it…there was a bottle lingering in Orange County.
OMG Kevin!!! They have one in Orange County?! CA right? Can you tell me the store!!! I need to call them!!
Just got an email from Thierry Mugler and Pure Coffee is back to purchase!! I just emailed them about it like a month ago asking if theyd bring it back but they said no! But its back! Definately on the top of my XMAS list now!!! So exciting!!!
AHHHH! Help! Did Pure Coffee really come back??????????
Kevin, if I don’t get to try Pure Coffee I’m gonna have a BreakDown!
I thought they called this B*Men ?
and is it discontinued now ? I havent seen it anywhere