It’s May Day, and everyone ought to be wearing lily of the valley (Diorissimo!), but I’m soldiering on with carnation nevertheless. Today’s subject: Dianthus, the latest fragrance from the Italian line Etro. It launched last year, and was the first scent from Etro specifically designated for women (although it certainly isn’t their first “feminine” fragrance). Dianthus, for you non-gardeners, is the botanical name for the plant genus that includes carnations, and the notes include orange, bourbon geranium, centifolia rose, pink pepper, ginger, carnation, woods, musk, cedar and vanilla.
Like yesterday’s Garofano, Dianthus centers on carnation without qualifying as a soliflore. It opens on sheer rose with hints of peppery green notes, and gradually moves into a lightly spiced blended floral with a fair dusting of powder. The carnation predominates, but it is subdued (at times I could swear I am smelling something lighter, perhaps peony) and the woody-musky base is very pale and cool. The vanilla adds a touch of sweetness in the dry down, but it is used here with a light hand.
It is a light, transparent fragrance — very spring-like — and while I generally like light and transparent, Dianthus is too clean and fresh for me, and simply doesn’t have enough oomph. Worn next to Garofano (an entirely unfair undertaking, admittedly) it smells positively anemic, and although they are both in Eau de Toilette concentration, Garofano outlasts Dianthus by a mile. I called Garofano unabashedly feminine, even lady-like, and while it doesn’t always suit me, the dainty-pretty pastel air of Dianthus suits me even less. Still, of the two scents, Dianthus strikes me as much more likely to appeal to modern tastes, and it is worth a try for anyone looking for a more ethereal, up-to-date version of carnation.
Etro Dianthus is is available in 100 ml bottles of Eau de Toilette. For buying information, see the listing for Etro under Perfume Houses.
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Well, I am wearing my Diorissimo (as expected), but I will comment on carnations (which I generally really like) anyway:). I see I missed Garofano yesterday, so I should note that I really love that scent–and must wear it again soon! Dianthus is quite pretty, but I agree–it lacks oomph; I didn't pursue it beyond a sample.
I'm going to spray on some Diorissimo later in the day myself.
Dianthus seemed a surprising sort of scent from Etro, in a way. Doesn't seem like their style. But lots of people on MUA love it so you & I might be in the minority.
I am with you and J. I thought it was ever so boring, this Dianthus. I have troubles loving carnations, they smell very…Soviet
For me to forget that aspect, a carnation scent has to be oomphaliciously oomphy, spicy, sultry, etc. There was none of that in the pale Dianthus.
I thought Dianthus was pleasant, in the way one's hands smell pleasant after washing with carnation-scented soap. That's what it reminded me of — the trace of soap. It's got a fraction of the carnation/clove aroma of, say, CdG Carnation.
M, I did finally try Red Moscow, and the top notes especially are like being buried in carnations…oomph in spades, I'd say.
CdG Carnation is another great scent, like Floris Malmaison, that I ought to review but don't have. I so rarely want to wear carnation that I passed all those samples on, and now I'll have to try to get new ones.
Oh! I need to put in a good word for Dianthus. I happen to love carnation fragrances, anyway, and this has become one of my favorite carnations for spring. On me, it's a soft, powdery floral with just a llight touch of spiciness. It merges well with my own chemistry; in other words, this is what passes for a “skin scent” in Stanziland!
I also like LV Garofano very much, but I find it a bit too strong for warmer weather.
J, I know you love it because I've seen your posts about it at MUA, so apologies for dissing one of your favorites! If you happen back through, do tell what other carnations you love besides this & Garofano?
Don't worry, I haven't stormed out of the room in a huff! We need a range of opinions.
My absolute favorite carnation-based fragrance is Caron's Bellodgia, which also included rose (my other favorite floral note). I'll be wearing L'Artisan Parfumeur's Oeillet Sauvauge often this summer, since it's such a light eau de toilette.
I really need to give Malmaison another try, since it's a classic. I recently tested Dawn Spencer Hurwitz's interpretation of Malmaison, called Rose Imperiale, and I think I enjoyed it but it faded quickly!
That sweet guy at Bergdorf was really flogging this the last time I was there. I swear I can't smell much of anything; these comments make me feel better about that.
I'm afraid this isn't one of the carnation scents I love. As you said, it's clean and I'm not a huge fan of clean scents. And, like K, found it reminded me of a carnation soap – not a good thing for me. I'm w/ Marina – I want my carnation scents to be oomphalicious – *love* that word and plan on stealing it and using it liberally from here on out.
Bellodgia is gorgeous. I did not like the L'Artisan, but that was some time ago and I would revisit it except it's a goner, IIRC. Will have to check the L'Artisan website to be sure.
You must mean Tom at Etro, he is so nice. If they would just hire him for Guerlain — Guerlain needs someone very nice, badly, at Bergdorfs.
Oomphalicious is very handy, and surprised they didn't think of it for Willy Wonka. M should trademark it now before someone else does!
gak, you guys make me regret not giving this a longer sniff so that I know what the fuss *isn't* about, lol!
I had to chime in and say that Tom was indeed very nice, though.
She should trademark it! Clearly, the WW writers weren't as genius as M.
I just spoke to Tom on the phone and ordered New Tradition before I logged in here, today. What are the odds, eh? Tom is a great guy, and you're totally right – Guerlain should grab him if they know whats good for them. I first met him when he worked at Bond on Madison.
Anyway, I wore Dianthus a little bit yesterday – its nice but not FBW for me. I need to try Garofano, soon. I might be a carnation fan, yet!
-MD
Oeillet Sauvage can still be found at the Henri Bendel L'Artisan Boutique. If you call Nicole at 212-904-7910, I'm sure she could help you.
This is ironic, too – b/c her card is sitting on my desk with 2 vials of Oeillet Sauvage taped to it from my NYC trip 2 weeks ago.
Have a good one, R!
-MD
Not looking to buy any, but thanks! Was just wondering if it was still being made, and the L'Artisan SAs seem to say *everything* in stock is still being made. But I'm pretty sure OS has been discontinued.
He is a great guy. Guerlain would actually have a completely different “aura” to me if they hired someone pleasant at BG. Isn't that silly?
Nope, not silly at all. Jason at BGs is only nice if you're shelling out the big dough.
Everybody likes Tom, even if not everybody likes Dianthus. But also guessing that Dianthus has WAY more fans than we're seeing here.
Assuming you shelled out some big dough at some point or you wouldn't know that, LOL — anyway, have now “met” 3 different SAs there, and all of them were essentially uninterested & unhelpful. Gives the line a “snooty” sort of atmosphere, especially when the people over at uber-expensive JAR are so kind and nice, even when you make it clear upfront that you're not planning to shell out a dime and only want to have the fun of smelling the nice glass jars again.
I haven't myself, but I've been with people who have and he'll fall all over them and he's been very rude to me – very disinterested in my presence, which is fine – but what if I DID want to buy something?
The other girls there are all the same as him. Actually – last time I was there the girls just left me. The one – she sprayed me with the $1200 Hegemonienne and when I said “I'm not looking to spend that much money on a citrus – or anything” she felt the need to just – leave. Which is fine with me, really.
Same here. I've had more than one Guerlain staff member actually turn his/her back on me when I've been browsing in that boutique. However, they've been much more friendly with big-spender friends of mine. Guerlain should really reassess and get some non-arrogant new blood in there.
It seems even worse in contrast to all the friendly and helpful sales staff at ther other beauty and fragrance counters, of which I have visited many. Huh.
absolutely true. For their reputation, you'd think you'd encounter more attitude in Bergdorfs Beauty Level, but Guerlain is the only place where you can cut it with a knife. All the rest are just wonderful.
MarkDavid — LOL — she just walked away? Classic.
Completely agree. By & large, Bergdorfs is actually one of the friendlier department stores in NYC. Also like Saks.
Yes, Tom! When we were there with Patty's whole family, he actually gave them directions and hints for several tourist things and gave them his CEL PHONE # in case they needed help!
Now THAT is customer service!!!
The ladies at Guerlain treat me like I have cooties.
I actually like this a lot and far more than LV Garofano which has an unpleasant note of cheese to my nose. Other carnations I like are Oeuillet Sauvage and SMN Garofano and Bellodgia within reason. Malmaison smells of red fruit jam to me.
Glad to see another fan sticking up for Dianthus! But cheese, LOL — I wonder if that is the animalic notes in the base, or something else?
We must have the same cooties. Only curable by waving around huge stacks of $$.
OMG. I must have cooties too. Thats it. We're contagious and we didnt even know it.
Trust Guerlain to notice, too.
I think it's LV's rose note as I've noticed the cheese aroma in other fragrances from him with rose
Interesting — I must be (luckily) missing it entirely, as I don't smell cheese in Donna either.