Perfume Legends by Michael Edwards ~ perfume book review

Michael Edwards Perfume Legends book cover

Michael Edwards is a household name in perfumery. He is the man behind Fragrances of the World (formerly known as The Fragrance Adviser, and now available in book form and online), a critically acclaimed guide for retailers, and the author of Perfume Legends, a standard work on the history of modern perfumery. While there's some controversy among perfume fans regarding the reliability of the (online) suggestions provided by the Fragrance Adviser, Perfume Legends is universally hailed as a must-have. Of course, good things come at a price, and at $130 US this book is no bargain. I've postponed my purchase for a long time, and ended up buying the (much cheaper) French soft cover edition, translated by Guy Robert. My review is based on the latter, but there's no real difference between the two.

What we have here is a reference book on fragrances that made a mark in 20th century perfumery. The selection is restricted to French feminine fragrances, but that hardly narrows it down (although the wonderful Youth Dew would have fitted perfectly in Edwards' list). The book features forty-five influential perfumes, ranging from Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue to Thierry Mugler's Angel, and all there is to know about them is squeezed in 300 pages. The word 'ambitious' wouldn't do this project justice: like all things in Edwards' home country Australia, everything about this book is impressive. The sheer amount of detailed information, the list of contributing experts, the quality of the photographic material, everything is produced to perfection. For the really challenging questions, Edwards interviewed those who were directly involved: Edmond Roudnitska, for instance, explains how he gradually simplified the structure of his compositions, and Sophia Grojsman talks about her fascination with Guerlain's Nahéma when they discuss her Yves Saint Laurent creation Paris.

Perfume Legends is a richly illustrated textbook, meaning that it's perfect for browsing through on a quiet evening. It's pleasing to the eye and well-organized, so it's ideal for quick reference too. I'm sure that many bloggers make good use of it; if you read it thoroughly, there's enough in there to make you a bit of an expert on modern perfume history. Although the author's focus in this book is on French perfumes, he frequently refers to other creations as well (Youth Dew is mentioned some five times in connection with other fragrances).

What I like most about Perfume Legends is something that sets it apart from all other reference books: it goes beyond a simple chronological account of "what happened when". It explores the complex relations between the creative process, traditions in perfumery, changing trends and markets, and new approaches in business. Perfumers and bottle designers tell us about their motives, their sources of inspiration, and how they were influenced by others; corporate brand managers like Chantal Roos were interviewed, who started playing an important role in the launch of new products from the 1970s onwards. Mind you, the story ends somewhere in 1992, and the industry changed considerably after that; nevertheless, it's important to understand those mechanisms if you want to know how today's industry works.

So now the question is: should you order your copy straight away, and spend the kind of money you'd shell out for that very special bottle of perfume? Or will it end up on your wishlist for next Christmas? My guess is that if you're reading this review, you're interested in perfume history; in which case, I'd say this is the only book you can't go wrong with. If your budget is limited, there are some good deals on Ebay every now and then; if you read French, I'd suggest to go for the French translation (entitled Parfums de Légende), which is really well-produced, and costs around $50 US. I'm not a fan of everything Michael Edwards ever wrote (I was really disappointed with his 1999 Fragrance Adviser, which I bought blindly), but I have yet to find a person who was actually not impressed with Perfume Legends.

Michael Edwards
Perfume Legends: French feminine fragrances
La Quinta, CA: Crescent House Publishing (1998)

Update: a list of the fragrances included in the book, by year...

Guerlain Jicky, 1889
Coty L'Origan, 1905
Guerlain L'Heure Bleue,1912
Guerlain Mitsouko, 1919
Chanel No. 5, 1921
Caron Nuit de Noël, 1922
Guerlain Shalimar, 1925
Lanvin Arpège, 1927
Jean Patou Joy, 1930
Dana Tabu, 1932
Worth Je Reviens, 1932
Rochas Femme, 1944
Carven Ma Griffe, 1946
Christian Dior Miss Dior (Original), 1947
Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps, 1948
Christian Dior Diorissimo, 1956
Grès Cabochard, 1959
Rochas Madame Rochas, 1960
Hermès Calèche, 1961
Guy Laroche Fidji, 1966
Paco Rabanne Calandre, 1969
Guerlain Chamade, 1969
Chanel No. 19, 1971
Christian Dior Diorella, 1972
Van Cleef & Arpels First, 1976
Yves Saint Laurent Opium, 1977
Cacharel Anaïs Anaïs, 1978
Cartier Must de Cartier, 1981
Jean Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose, 1981
Yves Saint Laurent Paris, 1983
Chanel Coco, 1984
Paloma Picasso, 1984
Givenchy Ysatis, 1984
Christian Dior Poison, 1985
Rochas Byzance, 1987
Cacharel Loulou, 1987
Nina Ricci Nina, 1987
Boucheron, 1988
Guerlain Samsara, 1989
Grès Cabotine, 1990
Lancôme Trésor, 1990
Christian Dior Dune, 1991
Issey Miyake L'Eau d'Issey, 1992
Thierry Mugler Angel, 1992

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Parfums Raffy


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  1. Anonymous says:

    Marcello: you've finally convinced me to get this book … I'm (almost) sick of buying perfume after a holiday frenzy of purchases so a perfume BOOK will be a nice change. I write this as I head north today, hundreds of miles, to British Columbia and The Perfume Shoppe! Kevin

  2. Anonymous says:

    Just last week I asked my local library to get a copy for me through inter-library loan! (Apparently there are only 9 copies available in the country this way.) I'm really looking forward to reading it, although I may have to postpone buying it for a while. Thanks for your review, now I can hardly wait until it's transferred to my library.

  3. Anonymous says:

    I've long wanted to get a copy of this book but had no idea it was so pricey – yikes! I guess I will have to wait awhile.

    Kevin – have fun visiting the Perfume Shoppe! The staff are so personable and will let you sample things to your hearts content. Even though I work in the same neighborhood, it's still a very special treat for me to go in there.

  4. Anonymous says:

    you won't be disappointed, Kevin!

  5. Anonymous says:

    my pleasure, Angela!

  6. Anonymous says:

    Cheez: I always schedule an hour with Nazrin…and the most amazing things are hidden away in the endless cabinets. In case you're interested, she just got a bottle of People of the Labyrinths (A.MAZE) that you can sample. K

  7. todg says:

    Dear NST,
    can you tell me from whom you purchased Mr. Edwards book? i have been looking for months and the price is great! please help me. i need this book.

  8. todg says:

    Dear NST,
    funny just received my latest Fragrances of the World in the mail. that was easy to find. tried contacting Mr. Edwards thru twitter and Ms. Margaret Khoury @ Fragrances of the World. just happened to stop here for more knowledge and of course you once again prove to be an invaluable resource. please help with purchase of PERFUME LEGENDS: FRENCH FEMININE FRAGRANCES and i will be indebted to you. Thank you.

    • Robin says:

      I bought my copy on eBay…I used an automatic search and waited (a long time) for the right price. It’s rare now that you can find it for less than $100 USD.

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