Escentric 01 is one of the two releases last year from Escentric Molecules, a relatively new perfume house created by Berlin-based perfumer Geza Schoen. Molecule 01 consists solely of the aroma chemical Iso E Super. Escentric 01, the subject of today’s review, is…
…an homage to a single scent ingredient. It consists of ‘Iso E Super’ in an unprecedented concentration (65%), together with other ingredients (including pink pepper, green lime and balsamic notes like benzoin, mastic and incense) in a new balance — rather than the traditional formula of top, heart and base notes, Escentric 01 moves quickly from top to bottom…It is as though the fragrance has no heart, but an enormous amount of soul. (via the Escentric Molecule website)
The above is so accurate a description of the experience of wearing Escentric 01 that there is little I can add to it. It starts with a lovely burst of lime and pepper that recalls Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand, then rapidly dries down to a cushiony-soft blend of vague woods. International Flavors & Fragrances describes Iso E Super as a…
Smooth, woody, amber note with a ‘velvet’ like sensation. Superb floralizer. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances.
That just about covers the rest of the story. There is the slightest suggestion of iris root and smoky incense, and not much else.
Perhaps because Iso E Super is widely used as a base note, there isn’t really anything strikingly unusual about Escentric 01, but all the same, it is a lovely smell, very warm and comforting. It has a subtle presence, but lasts nearly forever — easily 8 to 10 hours. However, if you enjoy the drama of watching (smelling?) your fragrance unfold over the course of the day, it is sure to disappoint, as there is basically no development once the top notes evaporate. Despite several tries, I still haven’t really made up my mind about it. For the price, I think I’d rather have the Isfarkand.
Escentric Molecules Escentric 01 is $135 for 100 ml; for buying information, see the listing for Escentric Molecules under Perfume Houses.