Le Labo Vetiver 46 and il Profumo Vetiver de Java, like yesterday’s Vetyver by Parfums de Nicolaï, are not unadorned renditions of vetiver: if you want the root, straight up and simple, you’ll have to look elsewhere. Vetyver highlighted vetiver’s earthy green properties with strong spices; in the two fragrances considered here, the focus is on wood notes.
Vetiver de Java is from il Profumo, the Italian perfume house created by Silvana Casoli. It has notes of lavender, vetiver, birch, incense, red rose, Cashmere cypress, gaiac wood and oak moss. The opening is a burst of lavender, slightly harsh, with a touch of citrus. It settles into a mild blend of mossy-earthy woods, tinged green, with occasional drifts of incense smoke and a bit of rose hovering just underneath the surface.
It is a calm, relaxing fragrance, and my favorite from this line so far. I do keep meaning to revisit Café Vert (please comment if you’ve tried it), and must also give props to Mandarine for being that rare thing: a long lasting orange scent. It is not quite satisfying to me on its own, but one of these days I will experiment with layering.
For buying information, see the listing for il Profumo under Perfume Houses.
Vetiver 46 is from Le Labo. It was created by perfumer Mark Buxton, has notes of bergamot, black pepper, clove, cedar, vetiver, ladanum, olibanum, gaiac wood, amber and vanilla. It opens on the smell of peppered band-aids, slightly singed, brightened by the bergamot and given a generous dusting of dried clove. The medicinal undertones calm for the most part as it dries down to dusky woods, very deep and warm, with a murky quality that calls to mind Yves Saint Laurent M7. The amber and vanilla lend some sweetness without tempering the intensity of the woods; and while it is quite earthy, I would have guessed patchouli rather than vetiver.
It is a considerably stronger and probably less “wearable” fragrance than the Vetiver de Java, and while both are masculine, the Vetiver de Java, which smells almost clean in comparison, might be easier for a woman to pull off. All the same I prefer the Le Labo.
For buying information, see the listing for Le Labo under Perfume Houses.
17 Comments
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I don't get past the peppery burnt band-aids on the Le Labo.
That's probably a better description than my embalming fluid one.
Vetiver de Java sounds very interesting. I have only tried one of Il Profumo's scents before, Bois Encens, and that one was certainly unique, though not exactly wearable.
I am intrigued by the presence of red rose among the notes. Adding this scent to my list of vetivers to try 
Embalming fluid, LOL — not a pleasant association, although perhaps peppery burnt band-aids are not much better. Wonder if this has some oudh? Can't remember if gaiac wood on its own is that medicinal.
M, I tried Encens Epice and didn't care for it, but didn't even notice that there was a Bois Encens. Will have to go investigate!
Hmmm…you know I don't “do” masculine,
R, but the Vetiver de Java sounds interesting, especially for the many vetiver lovers out there.
Hugs!
R,
I apologize, I meant Encens Epice. *embarassed*
Le Labo Vetiver 46 isn't in my normal range of likes but I have unaccountably fallen for it; was wearing it this morning, in fact. Patty loathed it and is graciously splitting the remainder of her sample between Marina and me! It is about as close as it can get to unwearable without crossing the line; I am still not sure what I find so compelling about it. It smells very sweaty on me.
Oh, then we agree on it at least
R, no, you probably wouldn't like either of these
Interesting, I don't find it sweaty at all — but it isn't clean either so maybe I know what you mean.
Robin, I am trying to find a more diplomatic way to say arm-pitty…
The weird thing about this one is, objectively, I think it smells a little b.o. But there is something in there that's so sexy to my nose that I don't mind. I probably sound insane so will leave it at that. I do completely understand what Patty wouldn't like in it, as you said, it isn't clean. My tolerance for unclean is certainly on the rise.
Hey, I think sweaty was the diplomatic way to say “arm-pitty”, LOL!
Le Labo Vetiver 46 has rocketed to the top of my lemming list–I must try this! I love masculine fragrances, so everything you've said about it appeals to me hugely. I'm also curious about the Rose.
I tried the Il Profum Vetyver awhile back and can't remember it well. It must not have knocked my socks off.
Whoops–sorry! I meant Il Profumo Vetiver de Java, not Vetyver.
I like the rose a bit better — I really like the spices they used in that one. Also guessing it will be the bigger seller of the two — it is just easier to wear. But the vetiver is very much worth a try!
I am bonkers for this vetiver, damn it. I was finally getting them narrowed down and this threw a wrench in it. I love the additional spices and how the sillage really says “vetiver” but the scent on my wrist is all spices. I am finding quite a few Le Labos to like!
I can’t remember if they still do those little travel sprays? Sounds like you’re going to need a few of them!