Iris Silver Mist was launched in 1994. It is one of the few Serge Lutens fragrances that is not attributed solely to nose Christopher Sheldrake; it was created by Maurice Roucel, either alone or in collaboration with Christopher Sheldrake. The notes are iris pallida root, galbanum, cedar, sandalwood, clove, vetiver, musk, benzoin, incense, and white amber.
Iris Silver Mist starts with damp, dirt-caked roots, spicy and peppery, with a touch of dry, mossy green. There is a slightly bitter, vegetal edge to the top notes that has been compared to the scent of raw turnips, and there is a hint of the metallic buzz that frequently accompanies iris. It is earthy, but not earth-bound; it has a sheerness about it that together with the resinous notes and sandalwood perfectly evokes the cold swirling mist implied by its name. The longer it is on the skin, the more vaporous it seems, so that both Hiris and Bois d’Iris seem comparatively heavy and weighted down.
It is an unusual, intensely captivating fragrance. Lutens has described Iris Silver Mist as “a summer scent recalling the smell of white linen”, which I find interesting not only because I never reach for it in summer (it works best for me on a cool day in spring or fall) but also because I find it far too ethereal to compare to something so prosaic as white linen. (the quote, and the fragrance notes in the first paragraph, are via Women’s Wear Daily, 6/24/1994)
Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, like many of my favorites from this line, is in the “exclusive” range. For buying information, see the listing for Serge Lutens under Perfume Houses.