Parfum 5 is Gingembre by Richard Ibanez of Robertet, and has notes of grapefruit, saffron, baie rose, nutmeg, ginger, incense, patchouli, vanilla, and amber. I love the effervescent top notes: tons of ginger and pink peppercorn, and a bright, sparkling grapefruit softened by the saffron. Although they have nothing in common other than the citrus and peppercorn, it is reminiscent of Hermès Rose Ikebana, but softer and spicier. It calms quickly to a lightly spicy fragrance with a hint of resins. The grapefruit lasts well into the dry down, but the sparkle is gradually obscured by sweet notes. This one was a close call, if it were a bit drier I would have loved it.
Parfum 6 is Bois by Amandine Marie, also of Robertet. It features cardamom, caraway, clove, birch, patchouli, leather, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, amber, and musk. Bois starts with spicy top notes over a rich wood base, and dries down into a smooth and earthy wood scent with hints of soft leather. It is very nicely done; there is a bit of sweetness but it is more under control here than in some of the others in this set. Easily the winner of this batch.
Parfum 7 is Ambre, by Dorothée Piot of Symrise. The notes are amber, vanilla, and musk. This is a simple, mildly sweet blend that smells pretty much like what the notes would suggest. It gets nicely resinous in the dry down, and would probably layer well with some of the others in this set, but I am not an amber lover and would not wear this on its own.
Parfum 8 is Rose, again by Dorothée Piot, and has notes of bergamote, coriander, cardamom, rose, ylang, mimosa, cinnamon, caraway, musk, civette, and vanilla. I very much regret that I fell behind in my testing schedule this week and only managed to try this fragrance once, as it may turn out to be the most interesting and unusual of the set. It starts sweet and spicy; the sweetness calms considerably as it dries down to a soft floral-spice blend. The rose is the predominant floral note, but is nevertheless subdued — it is more likely to appeal to someone who loves soft spices than someone who is looking for a big rose fragrance. I will be giving this another try later.
My final verdict? This is not a must-have set for me, but I am not an oriental fan so I did not have high expectations. However, I enjoyed trying these, and the only one of the 8 that I really would not wear is Incense, and please note that both Victoria and Tania loved that one. I would think that a lover of sweet orientals would appreciate this set much more than I did, and I regret that I did not have the time to explore some of the layering options.
If NellyRodi’s intention with this set was to predict the coming trends in perfumery, I would say we are in for another rash of sweet fragrances. I still love the overall concept and hope that they will do another fragrance family next time.
For buying information, see the listing for NellyRodi under Perfume Houses.