Montale is a Paris-based perfumer with two lines: an oudh line based on the precious oudh (or agar) wood frequently used in Middle Eastern fragrances, and a regular perfume line. That is the extent of what I have been able to learn about Montale — if you know more, please comment! Montale's description of Patchouli Leaves is as follows:
Beautiful Patchouli leaves macerated for two years in the trunk of the oak tree combine with vanilla, amber and white musk on a base of Cystus ladaniferus from Tibet.
Cistus ladaniferus is the variety of rockrose commonly used to make labdanum.
As anyone who has been reading this blog regularly already knows, I am not a big fan of patchouli. That said, if I had to wear patchouli, this would be the perfume I would choose. That is not because it is light on the patchouli, because truly, it isn’t. It is just such a lovely, well balanced rendition. It has a pronounced earthy undertone — really, it smells a lot like warm, wet dirt, especially in the early stages — and I am catching lots of tree bark as well.
Patchouli Leaves also has amber and vanilla, and the vanilla does intensify as it dries down, but this is by no means a sweet scent. On the contrary, it is nicely dry, and just slightly resinous. Patchouli, especially when combined with amber, has a tendency to turn sour on my skin, but this stays very smooth. To my nose, it bears no relationship to the head shop version of patchouli, but I will admit that my husband’s first comment was: "smells like a Grateful Dead concert". Since he said the same thing about Rochas Femme, I would take his words with a pretty hefty dose of salt.
This is by far my favorite of the 6 or so Montale fragrances I have tried so far. I have only tried one in the oudh line, but I would say that even the regular line leans towards the rich, spicy style favored in the Middle East. They are certainly much heavier than your average modern perfume release. The perfumes are nicely packaged in aluminum bottles meant to protect the fragrance from light.
For purchasing information, see the listing for Montale under Perfume Houses.
Have a favorite from this line? Please comment!
Loved this review. Wish I loved the scent as much as I thought I would. As a self-proclaimed “patch hag”, I find this one to be a bit too heavy and musty for me. I guess I like my patch blended with sweeter elements, as in Clive Christian's “X”. Loved the Montale info too. Thanks, Robin!
K, I will be interested to hear if other patchouli fans didn't like it either — maybe I am way off base since I don't like patchouli to begin with! But I can't argue about the heavy: it is very heavy. A tiny drop lasted for hours.
R – my love of patch is pretty quirky. I like when it's “clean”, which is almost impossible to find and means it's blended with other notes. Montale has been recommended to me countless times, and I've tried it more than once, but it's just not me. I am in the minority, I'm sure. My favorite straight patch is The Body Shop's, which probably has some added ingredients in it. I also like when it gets on my clothes, and the way it smells on the clothes once they're laundered – it really hangs in there, in a clean way!
Hi R! Not a great fan of Patchouli – guess it is my upbringing in India though I adore sandalwood in any shape or form. Must share that I am enjoying NR For Her (that has some patchouli) to my nose.
My Montale favourites are Crystal Flowers and the new Rose Petals from Montale and I am not a rose fan – go figure.
Hi N. I have tried Attar, which is a very deep, dark rose, but not Rose Petals. Will add it to my list!
Rose Petals is not a strong fragrance at all. I detect a little oud but the drydown is really pretty.
Not a huge fan of patchouli at all. It has a very pungent animalistic-ness about it. To me it smells like recently worn, yet freshly laundered dirty socks and marijuana. Not a fan of either. The only patchouli scent I could ever wear is Mysterie by Rochas. And that is a light patchouli fragrance.
My nose is very funny when it comes to patchouli, most times I dislike it with a passion but other times I find it incredibly sexy!
I have to agree that most patchoulis are too pungent. Haven't tried the Mysterie but will look for it!
In small doses it does not bother me, but I don't think I'll ever wear a straight patchouli. I am curious which ones you find sexy?
My favorite from this line is Chypre Fruite, though I have not tried all of them and am intrigued by Vetiver Sables. Patchouli Leaves is very strong, as you mentioned, and reminds me quite a bit of Ambre Sultan with more patchouli. I don't get much vanilla – certainly it is not a remotely sweet scent. I quite like this scent, but the last time I wore it my husband asked me what was burning! Not exactly a resounding endorsement. I have tried it layered with Vanilia too and that is also very nice.
I've heard Chypre Fruite is the nicest. I need to get more samples! I love Vetiver but I'm almost scared to try such a strong version. Bagutta Life Vetiver almost knocked me over.
I m curious about Montale but read that quality standart doesnt match Lutens.
anyone on this?
do they ship samples?
I would not rate these as highly as the Serge Lutens line, but they are also in a very different style, and cheaper. I know they provide samples with an order, but I don't know if they will send them on request.
I tried a sample of Montale PL. On first try, I thought “no”. But something pulled me to it again, and it didn't take long for me to change my mind. It's not as sweet vanilla-y as Jalaine Patchouli, but you still can tell it's there at the dry-down. PL seems a drier, smokier perhaps. It's closer to the skin, more subtle than the Jalaine. I would buy it (sigh). I got my sample from LuckyScent. They were kind enough to send along a sample of the Comme de Garcons Lux patchouli. I don't like that so far. Hope that stays the case.
I know lots of people love the Jalaines but they're mostly too sweet for me. You're better off loving the Montale than the CdG, $$$-wise!
Let me say that I usually detest Patchouli, but read so many wonderful reviews of Montale's that I had to try it. There is now a 100 ml bottle on my dresser. Certainly scent is probably one of the most individual matters imaginable. I have tried five Lutens samples and LOATHED them. Without exception I found them gloomy. Sa Majeste La Rose, while truly representative of a rose, is a wilted blackening red rose draped limply across a coffin compared to Montale's beautiful but sadly discontinued Ta'if Rose which is brilliant sparkling and rickly rosey. Montale seldom disappoints me. Guess I love heavy long lasting sexy fragrances. Patchouli Leaves has the earthy note of patchouli, but not the throat clogging gagging type, It is sweet and sexy and I can't stop smelling my wrist when I wear it. I most prefer it layered with Montale's Oriental Flowers, a real masterpiece. My vote for best Montale of all time is Oud Queen Roses and I'll picket their store in Paris if they ever discontinue it!!!
I really, really want to try this. But there is nowhere is Ireland (that i know of) that stocks Montale
I'm yet to find a Patchouli fragrance that does justice to the actual patchouli scent. i've tried the cdg luxe patchouli and it is nice but it's not 'the one'. Ohh, i guess it's not to be unless i stumble across this while travelling somewhere..
Ouch on the “wilted blackening red rose draped limply across a coffin “, LOL! Glad you're liking the Montales though
I'm pretty sure you can have a sample shipped to you, but of course you'd have to pay. Try First-in-Fragrance (they're in Germany) if you're interested.
Thankyou!! First in Fragrance it is. I'l see if i can get a sample of this as it sounds right up my street!
So i e-mailed Montale and requested a sample of Patchouli Leaves and they sent some samples out to me. How lovely are they? Will review when i've had to chance to wear it a couple of times. I also go samples of Black Aoud, Red Aoud and Aoud Damascus.
Nice customer service!
I thought so too. Really nice touch – considering that otherwise i would have had to buy the samples and pay for postage
Wow, that is exceptional service. I have six of their frags and love them all and they layer beautifully to give subtle nuances to each other. I see you have ordered some Aouds, may I recommend you next try Aoud Queen Roses? Unbelievably rich, sexy and feminine. Layers beautifully with their Oriental Flowers. Neither of these seem to get as much attention as they deserve. Well worth trying. Enjoy!!!!
Thanks for your recommendation Hollyc. I have a sample of the Aoud Damascus – have you tried this one? Just wondering how similar to Auod Queen Roses it is? If at all? Aoud Queens Roses certainly sounds lovely.
Hi Wednesday,
Queen roses is richer, deeper more complex and much longer lasting. I found the Damascus rather non-descript. In fact, I found no similarities at all between the two. I wish I were better at picking out notes, but a nose I'm not. I can't imagine anyone who likes rose based fragrances not liking it. You may also find their Attar very interesting (rose and very fine sandalwood). It is my second favorite of their rose offerings. If you can score a sample of their Ta'if (now discontinued) it might be worth it just for fun. Hope this helps. The Queen Roses by the way, has good lasting power (not quite as tenacious as Black Oud) and moderate sillage. I hope you like it! It's ultra feminine and not girly at all. Very sophisticated.