I had planned to continue with the orange blossom theme today, but last night my sample of Barbara Bui Le Parfum was calling to me, so orange blossom will have to wait until tomorrow.
Barbara Bui, the Franco-Vietnamese fashion designer based in Paris, introduced Le Parfum last fall. According to Osmoz, Bui "wanted a perfume for a committed woman. A perfume with character, not a heavy trail…" Women's Wear Daily reports that the notes for Le Parfum are spices, incense, jasmine, white musk, sandalwood, heliotrope, cedar and amber, and that the scent...
...is meant to be part of a wider global approach to beauty. Its ancillary products, which will be available starting in April, are also supposed to play a role in a woman's daily beauty regimen. The items will be multisensorial and results-oriented, not simply scented toiletries.
Le Parfum starts very sweet, but after about 10 minutes it is just perfect: a resinous mix of incense, very light jasmine, spices, and a touch of vanilla. It continues to a slightly powdery dry down with lots of creamy sandalwood and a subdued musky amber base. This is a skin scent, unobtrusive enough that you could wear it anywhere, and it has a soft, comforting quality.
This is a very appealing scent, and worth trying. I have to admit I love it best in the early stages, before the incense starts to fade, and again after several hours have passed, when the amber is just a whisper. I have tried this perfume 3 times now, and each time I have been struck by an obvious similarity to some other perfume that I just can't place. The remnants on yesterday's sweater are calling to mind L'Artisan Safran Troublant, but I am fresh out of that scent so can't compare the two. If you have tried both, please let me know if I'm crazy.
The nose behind Le Parfum was Anne Flipo of International Flavors & Fragrances.
As far as I know, this is only available directly from the Barbara Bui shop on Wooster Street in NYC (212-625-1938).
Update, 3/07: Barbara Bui Le Parfum has been discontinued.