Jean Patou Chaldee, ancienne et nouvelle ~ fragrance reviews


Ages ago, I came across, and bought, an unopened box of Jean Patou Ma Collection: Parfums d’Epoque 1925-1964. The glossy black box contained small bottles of 12 Patou perfumes: Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, Adieu Sagesse, Chaldée, Moment Suprême, Cocktail, Divine Folie, Normandie, Vacances, Colony, L’Heure Attendue and Câline.

Of all the perfumes in Ma Collection, two stayed in my mind over the years — Chaldée and Colony (maybe the first time I smelled pineapple in a fragrance). Today, I’m reviewing Chaldée in two forms: as it was re-released in 1984, and in today’s Collection Héritage range…

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Pluriel Feminin ~ perfume review

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Pluriel féminin, brand image

Francis Kurkdjian is arguably the first perfumer to come out of the traditional fragrance & flavor company “system” and make a real success of a brand under his own name.1 Maison Francis Kurkdjian debuted in 2009, and it’s far from an obscure niche brand — I can find the fragrances at my local mall, in Neiman Marcus, where they currently occupy prime real estate on the fragrance counter (and I am told they are big sellers).

Pluriel is the latest duo. The women’s, Pluriel Féminin, is styled as a “grand, modern floral bouquet”,2 and I’d say it lives up to its billing…

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Imaginary Authors Falling into the Sea & Violet Disguise ~ fragrance reviews

Imaginary Authors Falling into the Sea

Over the past year I’ve enjoyed reading reviews of fragrances from Imaginary Authors (see Angela’s thoughts on Cape Heartache and Kevin’s on Bull’s Blood) and visiting the company website, but I didn’t have the chance to experience the fragrances myself until I saw the line at Twisted Lily in Brooklyn. A kind friend recently sent me a few samples, so now I’m ready to write a review of my own, focusing on two fragrances from the line: Falling into the Sea and Violet Disguise.

Falling into the Sea is inspired by the work of (imaginary) author Nica Galas, and includes notes of lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, lychee, tropical flowers and “warm sand” in a story of tragic summer love. I’m a person who typically avoids hot-and-sunny beaches, yet I have a long list of favorite beachy fragrances…

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Thierry Mugler Oriental Express ~ perfume review

Postcard of Constantinople: the Harbor

A tribute to precious oriental perfumes. Balms, resins, vanilla and powdery effects create intensely sensual and addictive blends. A startling and unusual base of carrot, seed and wood adds an unexpected twist. An original edginess in an oriental perfume that loses none of its sumptuous opulence. In fact, quite the opposite… An extraordinary blend, green and creamy.

«For me, Oriental Express is a fur-like perfume… I decided to enhance the harmony of sandalwood and vanilla by blending it with carrot and basil, for an aromatic green effect. This striking contrast gives birth to a feminine or masculine oriental fragrance, with an unexpected personality.» Olivier POLGE1

Oriental Express was my immediate favorite of the Les Exceptions collection from Thierry Mugler (see Tuesday’s review of Supra Floral), and after spending more time with all them, it’s still top of my list. The description above is reasonably accurate: it’s a unisex woody iris-y carrot…

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Nicolas de Barry L’Eau de George Sand, L’Eau de la reine Margot & L’Eau de la marquise de Pompadour ~ fragrance reviews

George Sand and Nicolas de Barry L'Eau de George Sand

Until recently, perfumer Nicolas de Barry was unknown to me. After sampling his current collection of “historial perfumes” named after famous figures from the past, I’ve chosen three fragrances with distinctive characters to review today.

L’Eau de George Sand: L’Amoureuse (The Lover)

patchouli, amber, musk, rose, sandalwood, bergamot, lemon, oud; 100 ml Eau de Parfum, 129€

I’ve already found one perfume I enjoy that’s inspired by George Sand; here’s another. L’Eau de George Sand starts with a patchouli-amber accord (the patchouli is mid-strength and smells genuine). L’Eau de George Sand’s sillage is interesting; this fragrance smells as if it’s being worn by another person standing near me — a person who has been bustling about in heavy winter clothes that have been worn and re-worn, and have an accumulation of talc-y rose and sandalwood aromas clinging to them…

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