Atelier Cologne Philtre Ceylan ~ fragance review

Govardhan. Dalliance on a Terrace, detail

Day after day, he worked to perfect the love potion to seduce this untouchable woman. He asked her to meet him early in the morning in the park where the cherry blossoms were in full bloom. The perfect moment to kiss her would be apparent. Later, he understood that she never drank the filter he prepared. Instead, it was destiny that brought them together.

The Atelier Cologne Philtre Ceylan copywriter apparently does not know what “untouchable” can mean in Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Filter? No, that would be — p-h-i-l-t-r-e. ARE there cherry trees in Sri Lanka? Why not a heavily scented flowering myristica fragrans tree (that yields nutmeg and mace)? Perhaps all was lost in translation? (But when a perfume costs over $300, it is nice to get some free humor.)

Philtre Ceylan (roughly translated as Ceylon love potion) is part of the Collection Orient. Philtre Ceylan’s mix of notes1 promised an exciting perfume experience…

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Parfums Raffy

5 perfumes: vetiver fragrances for summer

beaded vetiver tassels

I did a year of incense and a year of iris,1 and now as promised, I’m starting in on a year of vetiver.2 Today, five great vetiver choices for summer. Two of my own favorite vetivers for hot weather — Kenzo Air and Paul Smith Story — have been discontinued long enough now that they’re rather hard to find, but if you happen across bottles of either and you’re a vetiver fan, do snap them up! (And then if you don’t like them, send them to me.) And as always, do add your own favorites in the comments…

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Room 1015 Power Ballad ~ fragrance review

Room 1015 Power Ballad

Earlier this year, the niche line Room 1015 released Power Ballad, “a fresh, spicy and leathery fragrance inspired by the 90’s High School years.” Power Ballad is unisex and its composition includes notes of bergamot, lime, spearmint, grapefruit, juniper, cumin, coriander, anise, poplar buds, vetiver, labdanum and cedar.

Power Ballad is accompanied by plenty of promotional description, some of it written (I think) in the voice of Room 1015’s founder, a “rocker by trade” who goes by the moniker “Dr. Mike”:

The 90’s. . .Life is easy-breazy [sic], ripe for the taking, full of French kisses and chewing gum…

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Annick Goutal Sables ~ fragrance review

Annick Goutal Sables

Annick Goutal created Sables1 over 30 years ago, and I’m happy to be the one reviewing it here (at long last). Goutal used the shrublands of Corsica, one of her favorite vacation spots, as inspiration for Sables, whose main ingredient, immortelle (Helichrysum italicum), grows naturally there and is also planted on farms for use by companies such as L’Occitane. Sables was a gift for Goutal’s beloved husband, the cellist Alain Meunier; they had met and fallen in love as young music students, then drifted apart for decades before meeting again and marrying. (Grand Amour is another Goutal creation that pays homage to their life together.) Sables represents a perfumer’s love for a place and a man…très romantique.

Sables was one of the first niche fragrances I bought (and I’ve owned many bottles over the years). I’ve not smelled Sables in a long time (from a new bottle, that is) and was almost afraid to sniff it after smelling the recently re-released, tweaked (and scoured) Annick Goutal Eau de Monsieur….

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Boy Chanel ~ fragrance review & a quick Chanel poll

Arthur Capel

Boy Chanel joins the Les Exclusifs collection at Chanel this year, bringing the collection to 16.1 It’s the second Exclusif from house perfumer Olivier Polge (the first being Misia), and was inspired by Arthur “Boy” Capel. Boy Capel, an English polo player and businessman, would likely be forgotten today but for his 9-year affair with Coco Chanel — he is often cited as the true love of her life.1 That, of course, lends him massive potential as “another link in the grand construct of the Chanel story”.2 I don’t know exactly how many products he has accrued at this point, but his namesake lipstick (in the Rouge Coco Shine line) came out in 2011, and his namesake handbag, Le Boy Chanel, debuted in 2012 (and was called an “instant classic”). Now, he has a fragrance.

It’s a unisex, with the usual hedging about unisex…

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