The Monday Mail ~ help Maneki find a new perfume

Pink post

Maneki, who lives in Sweden, wants our help with a very particular scent quest. She’s primarily interested in finding the right samples, so price isn’t an issue. Do read on and see if you can help:

I’m dreaming of summer evenings, of sitting on a hill watching the sunset while a gentle wind blows in the hair. And there’s one scent I imagine being part of this scene: coumarin. Or, rather, the coumarin-laden plants on that very hill: “vanilla grass”/sweet vernal grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum) and sweet grass (Hierochloe odorata). While I can always go sniff the sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) in our garden …I’d love a scent for those grey and cold days when I long for the beautiful white nights of June…

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Shop for perfume

Parfums Raffy

The swapmeet, episode 6


The swapmeet (episode 6) is open for business. PLEASE read the instructions! For people who would like to chat in addition to, or instead of, swapping, there will be a poll along shortly.

Don’t know what swapping is, or you know but you’ve never tried it? See here. You can also take a look at the feedback from episode 1, episode 2, episode 3, episode 4 or episode 5.

Please, do not participate if you do not have time to mail your items within the next two weeks! The next swapmeet will be coming up in October…

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Lush Death & Decay ~ perfume review

Funeral sheath

There are some oddball niche lines out there, but it’s hard to imagine any other mainstream brand the size of Lush — much less a mall chain the size of Lush (over 900 stores) — launching a fragrance collection under the name Death, Decay and Renewal. The individual fragrance descriptions emphasize the renewal part as much as the death and decay part (the collection is “inspired by the cyclical nature of life”, and do watch out for that ear worm), but still, it would be a surprise from anybody else.

Even then, I didn’t necessarily expect Death & Decay, one of the nine scents in the series,1 to smell quite so much like, well, death and decay…

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Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraiche ~ fragrance review

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche Ma Robe Pétales

This spring, Guerlain has launched La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche, a new flanker to the 2012 version of La Petite Robe Noire (which I deeply disliked). La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche is subtitled “Ma Robe Pétales” and follows 2014’s La Petite Robe Noire Eau de Parfum Couture (which bothered me somewhat less than its predecessor). (Don’t even ask me about the 2009 or 2011 versions; I have no memory of either one!)

The facts: La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche was developed by perfumer Thierry Wasser. It’s described as a fresh green floral with notes of bergamot, mandarin, rose, freesia, jasmine, pistachio, almond, tonka bean, white musk and patchouli. Its juice is tinted green, and its bottle is the classic Guerlain silhouette tarted up with yet another little-black-dress illustration…

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Etat Libre d’Orange True Lust ~ fragrance review

Etat Libre d'Orange True Lust, brand image

One of the hazards of reviewing fragrances for so long is that I can’t always remember what I’ve sampled. When I read that Etat Libre d’Orange True Lust combined Putain des Palaces and Dangerous Complicity, I drew a blank on what that might smell like. I even had to go back to confirm that I’d reviewed Putain des Palaces at all.

On rereading the reviews, it started to come back. Both fragrances are feminine, silk-stocking-ed sort of perfumes. Putain has a feral kick while Complicity might be the prettier of the two, although it lost my interest as it dried down. Now that I’ve smelled True Lust, I’m not sure why Etat Libre bothered to combine them. All three fragrances are lovely, and none is ferociously different from the other, at least not in mood…

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