Fath’s Essentials by Jacques Fath ~ four fragrance reviews

Jacques Fath Green Water and Vers Le Sud

Jacques Fath just launched Fath’s Essentials, a collection of four fragrances developed by perfumer Cécile Zarokian, and representing “a sensory voyage through new olfactory territories and rare emotions.” New anything is a hard assignment, especially in perfume, and what’s a rare emotion? One that’s bloody on the inside (fury? sorrow?), or an emotion experienced once in a blue moon, if we’re lucky —something like elation? And how does “new” and “rare” relate to essentials — things like socks, eggs, toothpaste? Let’s see!

Green Water (reissue): neroli, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, orange, basil, tarragon, vetiver, clove, mint, cumin, oak moss, musks, ambergris. (Wears like an Eau de Cologne.)

Green Water goes on with delicious-smelling (and vibrant) neroli front and center; it’s quickly joined by the scent of fresh/oily citrus peels. Then, Green Water focuses on orange blossom (tinged with almost-not-there cumin for a hint of dirtiness). Today’s Green Water smells good, if not as complex as versions past

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Thierry Mugler Angel Muse ~ perfume review

Georgia May Jagger for Thierry Mugler Angel Muse

Perfumanity would seem to generally agree that Thierry Mugler does better than most when it comes to flankers. The A*Men flankers, especially the “materials” series (A*Men Pure Havane, A*Men Pure Malt, A*Men Pure Coffee, A*Men Pure Wood and the latest, A*Men Pure Tonka) have plenty of avid fans. On the women’s side, I still find myself wavering, years later, over a purchase of the best-Angel-yet, Angel Liqueur de Parfum. Meanwhile, Angel Eau Sucrée, released as a limited edition again this spring (for the third year running), makes a decent young-slash-fun variation on Angel now that Angel Innocent and its various flankers-of-flankers are no longer with us.1

Angel Muse is the newest in the collection. It comes with a splashy ad campaign and hashtag (#HateToLove), and the perfumer, Quentin Bisch, talks about his passion for video games, so you know it’s geared towards youth. They are calling Angel Muse a ‘gourmand vetiver’, and I suppose maybe it is, but I’d call it a ‘gourmand vetiver Angel’…

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Gri Gri Eau de Parfum for Tattooed Skin Tara Mantra, Moko Maori & Ukiyo-E ~ fragrance review

Gri Gri Eau de Parfum for Tattooed Skin

Do you have a tattoo? I don’t. But I love to see them on others. Among the overplayed lotuses, butterflies, and infinity signs are gorgeous works: angelfish swishing chiffon-like tails; maps of fictional places; gardens that couldn’t exist in real life. Last summer, I spent an afternoon at the Musée Quai Branly’s tattoo exhibit and was mesmerized by photographs and drawings of centuries of body art adorning everyone from prisoners and fire eaters to sailors and tribal leaders.

So, despite my tattoo-less skin, I thought I’d give the three Gri Gri for Tattooed Skin fragrances — Tara Mantra, Moko Maori, and Ukiyo-E — a go. Gri gri (or gris gris) is a form of talismanic magic consisting of a small, handmade pouches with something significant in them to protect their wearers or bring luck…

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Maria Candida Gentile Rrose Selavy ~ fragrance review

Belle Haleine Eau de Voilette

“Rrose Sélavy, the feminine alter ego created by Marcel Duchamp, is one of the most complex and pervasive pieces in the enigmatic puzzle of the artist’s oeuvre. She first emerged in portraits made by the photographer Man Ray in New York in the early 1920s, when Duchamp and Man Ray were collaborating on a number of conceptual photographic works. Rrose Sélavy lived on as the person to whom Duchamp attributed specific works of art, Readymades, puns, and writings throughout his career. By creating for himself this female persona whose attributes are beauty and eroticism, he deliberately and characteristically complicated the understanding of his ideas and motives.” 1

The name “Rrose Sélavy,” interpreted/translated in at least two ways: “Eros, c’est la vie” (eros, that’s life) and “Arroser la vie” (to drink to life or, more sensually, to moisten life, as in arousal), is niche perfumer Maria Candida Gentile’s toast to Marcel Duchamp and his female (drag) creation, Rrose Sélavy. As perfume inspirations go, it’s intriguing and FUN — just like Gentile’s Elephant & Roses idea…

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Perfume is such an easy subject to lie about ~ an interview with Francis Kurkdjian, part 1

Francis Kurkdjian with bubbles

Today’s guest post is from Persolaise, the author of the Le Snob – Perfume guide, published by Hardie Grant. He is also the editor of the Persolaise blog, as well as a regular contributor to Basenotes. He has won four UK Jasmine Awards, most recently for Closer To Heaven, a guide to incense perfumes which appeared in The Scented Letter.

I can’t believe that almost three years have passed since I last interviewed Francis Kurkdjian. For a while, his face was a regular fixture on my blog, headlining posts which invariably featured strong opinions and controversial views, many of which prompted readers to share their own feelings in the Comments section. But, for one reason or another, after a flurry of meetings, our paths refused to cross for months on end.

During that time, his eponymous brand has grown in stature and popularity: he now has his own boutiques in Taiwan and Malaysia. He’s continued to make perfumes for high-street names (Jean-Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci, Yves Rocher). And he’s become an in-house creator, of sorts, for Burberry, Carven and Elie Saab. At the start of February, he popped into London’s Liberty store for an ‘Evening With A Perfumer’ event organised by The Perfume Society. But before facing his fans, he kindly agreed to have an exclusive chat with me, over a cup of coffee and a biscuit…

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