Lolita Lempicka Sweet ~ fragrance review

Lolita Lempicka Sweet banner with chocolate covered cherry

Based on the name, the description, and the video with perfumer Anne Flipo, I imagined Lolita Lempicka’s Sweet would be a candy-bomb, something along the lines of Viktor & Rolf Bonbon, or Prada Candy, or even the original Lolita Lempicka fragrance. I was only partly right. Sweet, the brand’s new perfume for women “who live life deliciously” is candied, but it’s also sheer, especially once the top notes calm. If you think of it as Infusion de Sweet, you’ll be closer to the mark.

Wisely, the description references a cherry-cocoa lipgloss accord as opposed to actual cherries and cocoa…

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Clinique Aromatics Elixir ~ fragrance review

Clinique Aromatics Elixir

I remember trying Clinique Aromatics Elixir1 in my early twenties (didn’t like it then) and forgetting it existed till I met someone 13 years later who wore it all the time. When I first met her, I said: “You’re wearing Aromatics Elixir, aren’t you?” How could I remember a perfume I had tried so long ago and never wore again? (I was proud of myself…what a memory! what a Nose!) But I can take only partial credit for this feat; Aromatics Elixir is distinctive, and one of the few perfumes with a strong oak moss note that I now enjoy.

Last week, when I reviewed Aramis (a fragrance that shares Aromatics Elixir’s perfumer, Bernard Chant), I admitted oak moss is not one of my favorite fragrance ingredients — an understatement. Oak moss is something I imagine as a brittle, sticky thread that takes over other ingredients as a virus overwhelms a host…

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Aramis by Aramis ~ fragrance review & A Rant in Defense of the Aging and Old

Aramis advert

I’ve been meaning to review Aramis1 for years (it’s a classic, and I’ve never tried it!) Reading two articles back to back last week, randomly, led me to the perfume counter for a fresh Aramis sample…and this review. These articles have apt connections to the “old-man” perfume that is Aramis (it was first released in 1964 and is regularly disparaged by men, and women, on perfume forums as being “old” fashioned and, thus, un-wearable today).

First up was an interview with Frances McDormand, talking about aging in The New York Times:

We are on red alert when it comes to how we are perceiving ourselves as a species. There’s no desire to be an adult…

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Aerin Iris Meadow & Waterlily Sun ~ brief, only slightly cranky perfume reviews

Aerin Iris Meadow

I wasn’t sure what to expect when the Aerin fragrance brand launched in 2013, but after smelling the first five, I got the general drift. The latest two, Iris Meadow and Waterlily Sun, are in the same easygoing light floral mold as Lilac Path, Ikat Jasmine and Gardenia Rattan (the other two, Amber Musk and Evening Rose, had a little more heft). None of them are the perfumista-bait some of us had hoped for, but they’re wearable enough, and I’ve come to think of the Aerin brand as a sort of mashup between the (early) Jo Malone brand and the (later) Guerlain Aqua Allegoria range: (ostensibly) material-driven, clean, youthful and easy to wear. The bonus factor, I suppose, is the casual-luxe “Aerin lifestyle”, which seems to be the key selling point of the advertising

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B Balenciaga ~ perfume review

B Balenciaga adverts

Since we last heard from Balenciaga, fragrance-wise, Nicolas Ghesquière has left the brand.1 Alexander Wang reportedly started working on the new B Balenciaga as soon as he became the house designer in late 2012 (Rosabotanica came out in the interim, but was apparently outside of Mr. Wang’s purview). Wang said he wanted his fragrance to be timeless, and he picked lily of the valley because it wasn’t overpowering, and an edamame accord because he likes green notes.2

The opening is bright and citrusy, and it is green, but it’s a very soft, dewy and pale sort of green (it reminded me a bit of the Martin Margiela Untitled scent) with plenty of violet leaf (which reminds me of too many fragrances to list). On paper, the green opening lasts for ages…

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