Aroma M Geisha Vanilla Hinoki ~ fragrance review

Shiraike Jigoku of Beppu Jigokumeguri, Beppu, Oita prefecture, Japan

The independent perfume house Aroma M has just released Geisha Vanilla Hinoki, the first addition to its Geisha collection since 2011’s Geisha Amber Rouge. (Just for reference, my personal favorites from this line are Geisha Violet, Geisha Marron and Geisha Noire.) Vanilla Hinoki includes notes of vanilla, bergamot, clove, cardamom, nutmeg, cedarleaf, lavender, leather, patchouli, amyris and cedarwood, and it was created to evoke “the cloudy, floating, sybaritic sensation” of resting in a Japanese hot-spring pool.

Aroma M has never offered a gourmand fragrance before, unless you count the cocoa note in Geisha Violet (really more of a “fleurmand”). I was surprised to see that this new Geisha was vanilla-themed, and I have mixed feelings about vanilla perfumes…

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A Lab on Fire Mon Musc a Moi ~ perfume review

A Lab On Fire Mon Musc à Moi

A Lab On Fire’s new fragrance, Mon Musc à Moi, sounded reasonably tempting. It was developed by perfumer Dominique Ropion, and it’s from a brand that’s done more than one fun gourmand (What We Do In Paris Is Secret, Paris*LA). The ad copy was a little silly, but it usually is, and while I couldn’t say exactly what they mean by “contemporary retro”, it sounds like it can’t hurt, right?

As it turns out, Mon Musc à Moi smells entirely contemporary to me, and I probably would have liked it better with another dash of retro…

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Aftelier Vanilla Smoke ~ fragrance review

lapsang souchong

Autumn and the scent of smoke seem made for each other. Maybe it’s the nostalgia of the season’s first wood fires, or a taste of peaty Scotch, or the steaming pots of smoky Lapsang Souchong tea that sound so good on a rainy afternoon, but for me it’s hard to separate smoke and November. For that reason, I looked forward to sampling Aftelier Vanilla Smoke.

Not that I didn’t have my concerns. After all, not all smoke is good smoke. Would the smoke be toasty or touched with cumin (like real wood smoke can be) or acrid? Worse, would the vanilla smell like cake batter? Fortunately, with Mandy Aftel we’re in good hands…

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Two for Tuesday: Eau d’Italie Morn to Dusk, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Giverny in Bloom

(Relatively) quick reviews of Morn to Dusk from Eau d’Italie and the Giverny in Bloom collection from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.

Eau d’Italie Morn to Dusk

Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk

The oddly-named Morn to Dusk is the latest from Italian niche line Eau d’Italie; it promises a “sensual feeling that wraps like a veil of gold, from morning till the sun sets” and “the Italian way to Vanilla: simply irresistible”. That translates into a sheer, summer-weight vanilla musk…

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Vanilla x 2 ~ fragrance reviews

Tauerville Vanilla Flash and Providence Perfume Co Provanilla

Quick reviews of two new vanilla fragrances: Provanilla from Providence Perfume Co and Vanilla Flash from Tauerville.

Providence Perfume Co Provanilla

Indie line Providence Perfume Co calls their new Provanilla a “lavish celebration of true vanilla”, and it features “five different varieties of vanilla from Madagascar to Mexico”. Also in the mix: rose, balsams, myrrh, coconut pulp and a “clean aquatic accord”. The clean aquatic accord would usually scare me, but since Providence Perfume is a natural brand, there’s no need to worry about calone…

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