Browsing by tag: thierry wasser

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial ~ perfume review

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial, AdvertGuerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial, Advert

Guerlain has done flankers of Shalimar before (Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, Fleur de Shalimar, Eau de Shalimar, Shalimar Light and Shalimar Eau Légère, to name just the ones I’ve posted about). They tend to make some perfumistas cranky, because, well, it’s Shalimar, right? It’s like messing with the Mona Lisa or something.

But sometimes they’re quite nice. Many people, including me, liked the recent Ode à la Vanille, although personally I agreed with Kevin that regular old Shalimar was still the better fragrance. I very much liked Shalimar Eau Légère despite the fact that it was clearly Shalimar aimed at people who most probably wouldn’t wear real Shalimar: younger people, perhaps, or just people who liked lighter, cleaner fragrances.

Shalimar Parfum Initial, the latest, ups the ante: it was reportedly developed by Guerlain house perfumer Thierry Wasser at the request of his niece, who wanted a Shalimar she could wear. I took her request to mean that Eau de Shalimar, the latest of the “Shalimar, lightened up” flankers, was perhaps a bit too mature — or just not trendy enough? — for her 17 years…

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Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial ~ new fragrance

Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial

Guerlain will launch Shalimar Parfum Initial in March. Shalimar Parfum Initial is a flanker to the iconic Shalimar fragrance (1925) and follows numerous modern variations on the theme, including Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, Fleur de Shalimar, Eau de Shalimar, Shalimar Light and Shalimar Eau Légère

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Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ~ fragrance review

Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille

I had little hope Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille would be a good perfume. Ode à la Vanille PR didn’t stress the fragrance but the Jade Jagger redesign of the Shalimar bottle, which Guerlain is using for Shalimar Eau de Parfum and Shalimar Ode à la Vanille. Harrods even had an online feature showing Jagger, looking a bit uncomfortable at a desk, ‘sketching’ her designs. Harrods listed the iconic perfume as “Shalimar by Jade Jagger”!

Guerlain house perfumer Thierry Wasser developed the new, vanilla-enriched Shalimar Ode à la Vanille; it includes fragrance notes of lemon, bergamot, rose, jasmine, iris, incense, opoponax, tonka bean and two types of “infused” vanilla: Madagascar vanilla and Mayotte vanilla. Shalimar Ode à la Vanille starts off with a wonderful leather-tinged bergamot-lemon note. Quickly, Shalimar Ode à la Vanille begins to smell “creamy” — like a chilled vanilla-citrus custard. The florals, especially the rose and jasmine, are discernible in mid-development but really become apparent in Ode à la Vanille’s extreme dry-down. As Shalimar Ode à la Vanille segues from middle to base notes it becomes amber-y-floral — first, with dark vanilla, opoponax, a hint of frankincense, some tonka bean and leather-musk notes, then with a vanillic flower accord. (There’s also a transitory indolic note that stays close to skin.) Shalimar Ode à la Vanille smells natural and delicious…

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Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ~ new fragrance

Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille  perfume

Guerlain has launched Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, a new limited edition variation on their iconic Shalimar fragrance for women.

Shalimar Ode à la Vanille is an oriental…

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Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser at The Perfume Diaries, Harrods

Thierry Wasser & Jean Paul Guerlain

About the author: Nina is our guest shopper for London. If you missed her review of the Perfume Diaries exhibit, you can find it here. She took all of the images for this article.

The Perfume Diaries season at Harrods is not just about the exhibition. Throughout September, there are a number of evening events featuring some of the people and processes involved in the production of perfume.

For me, the most exciting of these was ‘The House of Guerlain’ on 9 September, with Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, and current in-house parfumeur, Thierry Wasser. I went along with my friend and neighbour Stephanie, fizzing with excitement.

All of the events are first-come-first-seated, apart from this one, which was a very hard gig to get into. On the night, the exhibition area was packed, with guests being checked off carefully on a list and absolutely no interlopers allowed to gatecrash…

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