And that became Beautiful

Next to her office in the GM building is what we call the Dining Room. It has a beautiful, exquisite glass table. She would sit there and work. I would kneel at the end, watching, because she would never let us weigh. She'd say, 'If you pay attention, you'll know how much I've used.' If she liked part of one and part of another, she'd mix them. She mixed 5 different fragrances, and then we had to match them, we had to recreate that. And that became Beautiful. The 5 she eventually mixed were predominantly [Sophia Grojsman's], but then Sophia took them and made them a true fragrance.

— Karen Khoury talks to Persolaise about working with Estée Lauder. Read more at "When I Fell In Love With The Company" - An Exclusive Interview With Estée Lauder's Karyn Khoury [part 1].

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Parfums Raffy

Estee Lauder Spellbound ~ fragrance review

Estee Lauder Spellbound advert

Down at my local Nordstrom this week, to my surprise I found the classic Estée Lauders packaged in new bottles among the regular perfume offerings. In the past, if I wanted to sniff Azurée or Estée, for instance, I had to ask at the cosmetics counter and hope there was a tester hidden away somewhere. But now, here they were, lined up like little perfume soldiers in plain sight. I asked for a sample of Spellbound.

I chose Spellbound because a few commenters on my post on Old School Chypres mentioned it. To me, Spellbound isn’t a chypre at all, but a massive warm peach- and orange flower-infused oriental that probably draws boatloads of fans, and leaves as many people holding their noses in disgust…

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A Lab on Fire Rose Rebelle Respawn ~ fragrance review

A Lab on Fire Rose Rebelle Respawn

Last summer, A Lab On Fire launched Rose Rebelle Respawn, a “modern, feminine” fragrance developed by perfumer Sophia Grojsman. Like everything about A Lab on Fire, it’s a bit mysterious: it’s the third or fourth permutation of Grojsman’s 100% Love, originally released in 2003 by S-Perfume (the parent brand of A Lab on Fire). The original 100% Love was followed by S-Perfume 100% Love {More} in 2006, and more recently, by A Lab on Fire Rose Rebelle in 2011, which I never had the chance to try. (I think it was available only in Paris, and it may or may not have been identical to 100% Love.)

Rose Rebelle Respawn has a composition of ivy, mint leaves, carnation, rose, musks, incense and cacao…

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Lalique de Lalique ~ fragrance review

Lalique de Lalique, Libellule flacon

I rarely get my hands on classic/mainstream women’s perfume samples; I’m always receiving niche offerings — masculine or unisex. When I saw a sample tray at a department store full of the Lalique de Lalique fragrance, I got two vials, thinking I’d pass one on to someone I know who loves old school women’s perfumes and I’d keep the other to use in my scent infuser — IF the fragrance appealed to me.

Lalique de Lalique has a confusing history; it was originally called Parfum Lalique, was developed by perfumer Sophia Grojsman,* and was released in 1992. Parfum Lalique was repackaged, renamed Lalique de Lalique, and, perhaps, reformulated in 2001. Reading my sample card, the perfume I’m reviewing is an Edition Spéciale, 20th Anniversary (“special edition” refers to the bottle, not the perfume, I believe) that came out in 2012. I have no idea if this is yet another reformulation…

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