Every February, we consumers are reminded in many not-so-subtle ways that the rose is the flower of romance, and that we should be buying roses, giving roses, and wearing roses in all their forms. I happen to believe that rose fragrance is a perfect choice for any day of the year, not just Valentine’s Day, but I’ve decided to wear and review some recent and new rose releases all the same. One is a 2011 launch from the classic house of Caron, and the other is the latest offering from A Dozen Roses, a new niche collection that was itself founded in 2011.

Caron’s Délire de Roses Eau de Parfum is described as “an exquisite concoction…redolent of a spring garden in full bloom,” with top notes of blended rose petals and lotus flowers, a heart of lily of the valley and rosebush leaves, and a base of jasmine and lychee. It opens with a sheer cluster of rosebuds and lily of the valley, and it eventually dries down to a soft, fruity rose that stays close to the skin. Between these two floral phases, the fragrance’s mid-development is warmed by an unexpected salty-amber aquatic note. Since Délire de Roses has a transparent feeling and light staying power, it would work well as a rose fragrance for warmer weather. Other than that salt-breeze heart, it reminds me a bit of Crabtree & Evelyn’s Evelyn (now Evelyn Rose), one of my favorites during the early 1990s.

Overall, Délire de Roses is pretty and girlish and bright…

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Diptyque was one of the first “niche” fragrance houses to edge its way into my consciousness, and I still remember the day I purchased my first bottle of L’Ombre dans L’Eau at a boutique in Philadelphia. (That was eight years ago, and I still wear L’Ombre every summer.) More recently, I wished aloud that Diptyque would create a rose-centered fragrance, and my request has been noted by the fragrance gods and goddesses: Diptyque’s newest release is Eau Rose, “a totally new fragrance that pays tribute to the queen of flowers, the rose,” with notes of bergamot, blackcurrant, lychee, hedione, geranium, Turkish rose, cedar, musk, and honey.

I must say that Eau Rose’s label and box, with their pink-accented illustrations of trellis-climbing roses, are among the prettiest designs I’ve seen in a long time. They also raised my expectations before I had even smelled the fragrance itself. So, what did I think? According to the description on the Diptyque website, Eau Rose is composed to “to celebrate the multiple aromas of the flower in its natural state, as it blossoms over time.” That works for me. Eau Rose begins on a fresh-flower note, with the citrus and black currant giving it a certain brightness while never translating as an obviously “fruity-floral” blend…

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In one of my favorite reviews in Perfumes: The A-Z Guide, Luca Turin tells of seeing a busty woman on the London Underground wearing a tee shirt that read “All this and brains too.” He compares that “vulgar-but-wily combination” to Lancôme Trésor.

Trésor’s apricot-tinged rose is the pulchritude, and the vetiver is the intellect. I get it. But to me the rose is more Dinah Shore than Jayne Mansfield, and the vetiver doesn’t quite rate Mensa. That’s o.k. Trésor is entering its third decade not because it’s a sensual shock, but because it’s a crowd pleaser…

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When I choose a wine, I often take one of two approaches. I’ll select a wine that complements dinner, but doesn’t match it — a spicy Gewürztraminer or honeyed Chenin Blanc for Thai food, for instance. Or, I’ll choose a wine that blends with dinner — for example, a barely oaked Chardonnay with roast chicken. I tend to do the same thing when I choose the day’s perfume. On a rainy day like today with leaf rot in the streets, I might go for the complement and choose a warm, soft fragrance. Flower by Kenzo Oriental, maybe. But if I were going to choose a scent that feels like today in all its chilled autumn magnificence, it would be L’Artisan Parfumeur Voleur de Roses.

Michel Almairac created Voleur de Roses (French for “rose thief”) in 1993. The L’Artisan Parfumeur website lists its notes simply as patchouli, rose, and plum. That sounds right to me. Voleur de Roses smells like a Syrah-soaked rose washed over with wet patchouli, moldering wood, and cold plum. The wet has an almost metallic edge, like the ocean. The fragrance’s patchouli is one of its main features, so if you don’t like patchouli, steer clear…

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Oh my goodness! This reminds me of the Damask family of rose. The truest rose scent known comes from this rose, which is native to Syria. This is truest to a rose. But I can still smell the difference between a real rose, with its truer, more present rose scent, and a reproduced scent.

— Peter Kukielski of the New York Botanic Garden’s Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden, on Prada Infusion de Rose. Read more at Vain Glorious | Rosy Outlook at the New York Times. Hat tip to Jessica!

The rose-scented boiled sweet, called Deo, contains BENEO’s ISOMALT and will not only taste good, but after consuming, will transmit an attractive rose fragrance through the skin.

— Read more at Alpi and BENEO present first sugar-free ‘perfume’ candy in Europe. Hat tip to Tiara!

The candy is reportedly available in Bulgaria, the Czech Republic and Hungary. If you remember, there were similar products (candy and gum) on the market in Japan.

According to the lore of her eponymous fragrance house, Annick Goutal was deeply fond of roses; as one of the company websites states, “Every moment of her life was filled with them as she believed in their sensorial properties and their beneficial powers on the skin. She added drops of rose essence to her bathwater, drank it in secret teas…” Over the years, Goutal has released spicy fragrances, woody fragrances, green fragrances, and all sorts of florals, but it also continues to offer several variations on rose. Here are my thoughts on four of them…

Rose Absolue is an early Goutal fragrance, released in 1984. It was difficult to find for a while — in the United States, at least — but now it seems to be more widely available. Annick Goutal said of Rose Absolue, “Roses symbolize beauty, the eternal feminine. I wanted to dedicate a perfume to them which would also evoke this femininity.” This fragrance is all rose: it contains essences of May rose, Turkish rose, Bulgarian rose, Damascus rose, Egyptian rose, and Moroccan rose. Rose Absolue is both delicate and radiant. Like a gradually opening rose, it shifts from dewy to velvety to slightly dusky. If someone asked me to recommend just a few high-quality rose soliflores, this would be on my list…

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I was introduced to the Duchess Marden line a few years ago, when I received a facial treatment at a spa that used natural and organic products; since then, I’ve occasionally purchased Duchess Marden Pure Rose Water and Crème Cleanser to use at home. I like these products because they’re plant-based, they don’t contain any parabens, petrochemicals, or chemical preservatives, and — not the least of my reasons — they smell like roses.

With its recently launched Body Serum, Duchess Marden has moved beyond the face and neck to address the rest of our skin. I know that serums have become very popular in the skincare market over the past few seasons; now, apparently, the term is being applied to body products as well. (A quick internet search brings up “body serums” at various price points, from La Mer to Boots.) Duchess Marden’s all-over serum is packaged in a stunning gold-on-black bottle that a beauty editor would no doubt describe as “luxe.” It’s intended for use on damp skin after a bath or shower, in place of lotion or body cream, and it could also be incorporated into a massage.

Looking at the list of ingredients, I’m not entirely sure what differentiates a body serum from a body oil…

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I want to love the Ephemeral Infusions series from Prada.¹ Infusion d’Iris, the fragrance that inspired the series, is one of my favorite scents, and the packaging, as always from Prada, is picture-perfect. You could almost get me to buy them just for the gorgeous outer boxes (see below), and the perfectly-aligned, dyed-to-match fabric covering the caps.

So I do try to love them. But the “veil of scent” / watercolor concept that worked so well in Infusion d’Iris (and in Prada L’Eau Ambrée, although it is not part of this series) has just seemed, well, wimpy, and dull, in the scents that followed (Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger, Infusion de Tubéreuse & Infusion de Vétiver). It is not just a case of oh-this-is-really-nice-just-not-me, as it was with yesterday’s Jardin Sur Le Toit, but more wow-this-could-have-been-awesome-but-somehow-it’s-just-not.

Still. I like Infusion d’Iris, and I like Prada, and I like the work of the perfumer, Daniela Andrier. So I was happy to hear that rose was up next…

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When I first started posting on the fragrance discussion board at Makeup Alley, around 2004, I had a very basic idea of what I was looking for in a new fragrance for myself. I knew I loved rose scents, and I was a longtime fan of the rich vanilla in Jean Paul Gaultier Classique. Perhaps, I thought, I could find a perfume that combined the two notes. I finally ventured to ask for rose-vanilla fragrance recommendations, and a few veteran members of the discussion board offered suggestions. The one that was most enthusiastically named and seconded by other members was Rochas Tocade, so I set out to try it as soon as possible.

Tocade was created for Rochas by perfumer Maurice Roucel and was released in 1994. Its name translates as “whim” or “caprice,” and its composition includes top notes of magnolia and bergamot, heart notes of rose, orris, and geranium, and base notes of cedarwood and vanilla. Its vaguely silly-looking bottle, designed by Serge Mansau, reminds me of a figure wearing a turtleneck and a conical hat, or a toy for an infant. If had seen that bottle in a store, without knowing anything about the fragrance, I probably wouldn’t have picked it up, but thanks to the good advice I’d received, I was willing to give Tocade a chance.

Tocade is a floriental with a gourmand leaning, and it’s definitely a perfume-y perfume; anyone looking for a fragrance that feels “clean” or “shower-fresh,” or even “airy” or “dewy,” can stop reading here…

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