Diptyque Eau Plurielle ~ fragrance review

Diptyque Eau Plurielle

Diptyque Eau Plurielle is designed as an all-purpose fragrance. You can spray it on linen, spritz it as an air freshener, and use it as a personal perfume. Need a whiff of rose garden in your stuffy office? Spritz spritz, and your cubicle walls waft June morning at Butchart Gardens. The dog’s bed smells a little feral? Toss it in the washer, anoint with Eau Plurielle, and now Fido could march in the Rose Parade. (Even better, with Eau Plurielle you can be twinsies, scent-wise.) Diptyque complemented Eau Plurielle’s launch with the Rosafolia candle and scented wax oval.

Those of us who love perfume have been making it do double-duty for a long time. I spray Guerlain Eau Impériale on my mattress when I change the sheets. Occasionally I toss a handkerchief dampened with Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Colonia in the dryer with my laundry, and perfume samples often find their way into my handwash…

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Two from the purgatory basket: Etro Jacquard & HYLNDS Bitter Rose, Broken Spear

Two fragrances from my purgatory basket, which is where I put samples when I just can’t make up my mind about them and want to be sure to try them again, later, sometime. I swore I would clear out five last weekend, but only managed two: Etro Jacquard and HYLNDS Bitter Rose, Broken Spear.

Do comment if you’ve recently retried any samples that you just couldn’t decide about!

Etro Jacquard

Etro Jacquard

The packaging and digital imagery for Jacquard, last year’s launch from Italian brand Etro, are perfect: I wanted to love the fragrance right away. And Jacquard starts with some promise…

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Only two

About six months into [the process], the nose was like, “You know, people don’t make fragrances with rose. There’s only two on the market that have ever had any kind of impact. It’s the hardest scent to work with—people avoid it like the plague.” And I was like, “Oh, you could have told me that a bit earlier!” I think we almost brought the rose back in fragrance—having that naïveté is quite a benefit.

— Stella McCartney, talking to Style.com about the creation of her Stella fragrance, developed by perfumer Jacques Cavallier. A new Stella Eau de Toilette will debut in April. Read more at Stella McCartney Explains Why Fragrance “Isn’t All About Sex”.

Guerlain French Kiss ~ fragrance review

Guerlain French Kiss

Guerlain recently launched French Kiss, a new fragrance for women and the latest addition to its Elixirs Charnels collection. French Kiss’s release was timed to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Guerlain’s KissKiss lipsticks, and it is described as a “glossy floral fragrance” with notes of raspberry, lychee, rose, violet, vanilla, heliotrope, iris and white musk.

I have quite a few favorites in Guerlain’s fragrance range (mainly the classic scents), and I’m also a fan of the brand’s cosmetics. I even own a KissKiss lipstick. And I typically love rose-and-violet perfumes. All in all, French Kiss sounded made for me. When I initially smelled it on a paper blotter, I was charmed by it. This week, however, I’ve been working my way through a sample vial and I’m feeling somewhat disenchanted…

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The cultured rose

"We’re calling this project the cultured rose," says Patrick Boyle, an organism designer at the Boston company [Gingko Bioworks], who notes that microbes produce many naturally fermented product, such as beer, cheese, and yogurt, that we consume today. "What we’re doing is taking genes from roses and other flowers, transferring them into yeast, and rebuilding the bio-synthetic pathways that are producing the fragrances that roses produce."

— Robertet and Gingko Bioworks are working on a bioengineered rose oil. Read more at The Quest To Reproduce The Scent Of A Rose, With Designer Microbes at FastCo.Exist.