Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Violette Sacree & Rose Irisee ~ fragrance reviews

Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Collection Les Inédits

The Neroli Blanc Collection from French niche perfumery Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger was one of my happy discoveries of early 2014: it’s a trio of well-made, reasonably priced interpretations of neroli and orange blossom, and my samples brightened a few long winter days for me. This fall, I’ve been exploring the company’s Collection Les Inédits, a range of more complex fragrances. My two favorites are Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée, both developed by perfumer Jean Claude Gigadot and released in spring 2014.

With Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée, Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger presents two classical perfumery themes reinterpreted with a modern sensibility — and you know I can never resist that kind of promise…

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Vero Profumo Rozy Eau de Parfum ~ fragrance review

Vero Profumo Rozy + Rose Tattoo movie poster

It’s not often that a fragrance lives up to its marketing. Vero Profumo Rozy does. Vero Profumo puts forward the gutsy, earthy Roman film goddess, Anna Magnani, as the fragrance’s inspiration. Despite the namby-pamby impression the name “Rozy” gives, the perfume is all glamour, attitude, and sweaty lip — and tenderness. Like Anna Magnani herself. You’d never call her attractive, but you can’t get her out of your mind.

Rozy Eau de Parfum, created by the house’s founder, Vero Kern, includes notes of rose d’orient, lilac, peach, passion fruit, honey, tarragon, powdery notes and sandalwood. (Rozy also comes in a Voile d’Extrait, which has notes of rose d’orient, tuberose, cassis, honey, spices, sandalwood and labdanum. It also reportedly comes in an extrait, but I can’t find it for sale anywhere. If you’ve tried the Voile d’Extrait or Extrait, please comment!)

My first thought on smelling Rozy was that at last I’d found a worthy substitute for the discontinued Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille

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Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile and Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No. 1 ~ perfume reviews

Pink rose

My last review of a rose-centered fragrance was posted way back in June, if you can believe it or not. (It was a review of Maria Candida Gentile’s Cinabre, which would actually make an excellent fall fragrance.) What’s become of me? To remedy this situation, here’s a double review of two newish rose fragrances from brands that have been around for a while.

The Italian house Acqua di Parma has just released Rosa Nobile, “a tribute to the ‘Queen of flowers'” that includes top notes of Sicilian mandarin, Calabrian bergamot and pepper; peony, violet, lily of the valley and Centifolia rose in the heart; and base notes of cedarwood, ambergris and musk. The Acqua di Parma website features an entire page focusing on Rosa Nobile’s story. It mentions Rosa Nobile’s “brand new and modern personality,” because — of course — the consumer must be assured that there’s nothing dowdy about roses…

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Phaedon Rouge Avignon ~ fragrance review

raspberry & rose petal

After having smelled hundreds — if not thousands — of perfume samples, sometimes it feels that many fragrances give in to the same tropes. Rightly or wrongly, it’s easy to dismiss them with a “been there, done that” cursory sniff. If I say “white floral,” you probably mentally sniff gardenia, tuberose and musk. Or, to get more specific, “beachy white floral,” “innocent white floral” and “glamorous white floral” bring to mind particular fragrance types. If you’ve smelled one, you can assume you’ve smelled them all.

So, when Phaedon Rouge Avignon was presented to me as a “rose incense,” I figured I knew what I’d smell next. After all, I’ve spent time with samples of Tauer Perfumes Incense Rosé, Terry de Gunzburg Rose Infernale and others. What I didn’t count on was a good-enough-to-eat infusion of raspberry and cocoa along with the rose and incense. It makes for an unexpected — and if you’re in the mood for it — appealing twist…

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Maria Candida Gentile Cinabre ~ fragrance review

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, Roman Widow, detail

I’m still exploring the Italian niche line Maria Candida Gentile, so you can imagine my delight and curiosity when I realized that the collection includes a rose-centered fragrance. Cinabre, one of the “Classic” scents in the line…

…creates the fragrance of a magic rose with a breakthrough formula. It blends the essences of the Moroccan Splendens roses, absolute of May roses and pure vanilla to recreate, by magic, the scent of the Ayrshire rose Splendens, an ancient rose well known for having exquisite and extremely rare notes of myrrh.

It was also inspired by an inscription on the Porta Alchemica in Rome and by the Dracaena tree, also known as “the dragon’s tree,” which produces a red sap (“dragon’s blood”).

All this scene-setting aside, Cinabre is an oriental rose that unfolds like a crimson satin fan…

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