Guerlain French Kiss ~ fragrance review

Guerlain French Kiss

Guerlain recently launched French Kiss, a new fragrance for women and the latest addition to its Elixirs Charnels collection. French Kiss’s release was timed to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Guerlain’s KissKiss lipsticks, and it is described as a “glossy floral fragrance” with notes of raspberry, lychee, rose, violet, vanilla, heliotrope, iris and white musk.

I have quite a few favorites in Guerlain’s fragrance range (mainly the classic scents), and I’m also a fan of the brand’s cosmetics. I even own a KissKiss lipstick. And I typically love rose-and-violet perfumes. All in all, French Kiss sounded made for me. When I initially smelled it on a paper blotter, I was charmed by it. This week, however, I’ve been working my way through a sample vial and I’m feeling somewhat disenchanted…

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The cultured rose

"We’re calling this project the cultured rose," says Patrick Boyle, an organism designer at the Boston company [Gingko Bioworks], who notes that microbes produce many naturally fermented product, such as beer, cheese, and yogurt, that we consume today. "What we’re doing is taking genes from roses and other flowers, transferring them into yeast, and rebuilding the bio-synthetic pathways that are producing the fragrances that roses produce."

— Robertet and Gingko Bioworks are working on a bioengineered rose oil. Read more at The Quest To Reproduce The Scent Of A Rose, With Designer Microbes at FastCo.Exist.

Divine Spirituelle ~ fragrance review

petals

When I think of Divine‘s target customer, I imagine an elegant, gentle-mannered woman who wears pearls with élan and not stuffiness, and who appreciates the nuances of a good Darjeeling. That sort of woman could be happy with any of Divine’s feminine offerings, most of which are classic florals, subtly blended, designed to comfort and enchant in a lovely yet conventional way. Put another way, there’s a good chance that no Divine fragrance has ever been smelled in a mosh pit. Divine Spirituelle is true to the house brand.

Perfumer Richard Ibañez developed Spirituelle. Its notes include spices, Sichuan and pink peppercorns, geranium, cistus, May rose absolute, Anatolian rose absolute, light amber, white musk, Texas cedar and incense. In brief, Spirituelle is a warm, tender rose…

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Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger Violette Sacree & Rose Irisee ~ fragrance reviews

Au Pays de la Fleur d'Oranger Collection Les Inédits

The Neroli Blanc Collection from French niche perfumery Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger was one of my happy discoveries of early 2014: it’s a trio of well-made, reasonably priced interpretations of neroli and orange blossom, and my samples brightened a few long winter days for me. This fall, I’ve been exploring the company’s Collection Les Inédits, a range of more complex fragrances. My two favorites are Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée, both developed by perfumer Jean Claude Gigadot and released in spring 2014.

With Rose Irisée and Violette Sacrée, Au Pays de la Fleur d’Oranger presents two classical perfumery themes reinterpreted with a modern sensibility — and you know I can never resist that kind of promise…

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Vero Profumo Rozy Eau de Parfum ~ fragrance review

Vero Profumo Rozy + Rose Tattoo movie poster

It’s not often that a fragrance lives up to its marketing. Vero Profumo Rozy does. Vero Profumo puts forward the gutsy, earthy Roman film goddess, Anna Magnani, as the fragrance’s inspiration. Despite the namby-pamby impression the name “Rozy” gives, the perfume is all glamour, attitude, and sweaty lip — and tenderness. Like Anna Magnani herself. You’d never call her attractive, but you can’t get her out of your mind.

Rozy Eau de Parfum, created by the house’s founder, Vero Kern, includes notes of rose d’orient, lilac, peach, passion fruit, honey, tarragon, powdery notes and sandalwood. (Rozy also comes in a Voile d’Extrait, which has notes of rose d’orient, tuberose, cassis, honey, spices, sandalwood and labdanum. It also reportedly comes in an extrait, but I can’t find it for sale anywhere. If you’ve tried the Voile d’Extrait or Extrait, please comment!)

My first thought on smelling Rozy was that at last I’d found a worthy substitute for the discontinued Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille

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