Atelier Cologne, a new niche perfume house based in Paris and New York, recently introduced its range of five fragrances. Atelier’s signature concept is the “cologne absolue”: fragrances inspired by the historic recipe of the original “Eau de Cologne” — a mixture of citrus and herbal ingredients — but blended in stronger concentrations for a richer and more lasting effect. Each of the fragrances in Atelier’s debut collection is centered around a citrus motif, and each is intended to embody a “singular moment” of memory and experience.
My current favorite from Atelier is Grand Néroli, created by perfumer Cécile Krakower. Grand Néroli opens with a radiant burst of neroli and orange blossom (those two lovely, but differently-achieved, products of the same flower). This opening accord is soon pierced by more astringent notes of lemon and petitgrain, for a lively blend that mellows after an hour or so. Grand Néroli’s middle phase includes a salty aspect with a very subtle “beachy” feeling, but it never becomes as marine-like as Le Labo Neroli 36. The galbanum seems to extend the citrus notes without turning them too green…
