Michael Edwards, the author of Perfume Legends: French feminine fragrances (and the updated version, Perfume Legends II), will publish American Legends: The Evolution of American Fragrances later this year. I have no official details other than an announcement of a book signing in April and am posting this now just because I am excited about it. Perfumes I can see on the cover (and do comment if you know the bottles I am missing): Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass, Old Spice, (?) Evyan White Shoulders, Estee Lauder Youth Dew, Aramis, Brut, Norell, Clinique Aromatics Elixir, Charlie, Estee Lauder Private Collection, Halston, (?) Oscar by Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren Polo, Estee Lauder White Linen, Giorgio, Estee Lauder Beautiful, Calvin Klein Obsession, Calvin Klein Eternity, (is that Elizabeth Arden Red Door?), Elizabeth Taylor White Diamonds, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, CK One, Demeter Dirt, Bond no. 9 Chinatown, something by Le Labo.
A more inclusive vocabulary
"Fragrances of the World," first published for nearly 40 years [sic] by Michael Edwards, is adopting "a more inclusive vocabulary" for his [sic] Fragrance Wheel and doing away with the outdated fragrance term "oriental." Beginning in July of this year, Edwards will instead adopt the term "ambery."
In addition: Soft Oriental will now be known as Soft Amber; Floral Oriental will change to Floral Amber; and Woody Oriental will shift to Woody Amber.
— Read more in Goodbye 'Oriental,' Hello 'Ambery' at Global Cosmetic Industry.
The nursery school of the future
So we are seeing a whole new evolution of luxury. Many of the great brands of the Eighties and Nineties have become almost masstige. Limited editions are so pervasive; flankers so frequent. The aspirational qualities don’t last. On the other hand, I’m fascinated by the explosion of creativity, the opportunity that is taking place in the niche fragrances. For me, niche is the nursery school of the future.
— Author and fragrance expert Michael Edwards, in Michael Edwards Discusses Luxury Fragrance History, Niche Fragrance’s Future at Women's Wear Daily.
Perfume Legends II by Michael Edwards ~ new perfume book
Fragrance expert Michael Edwards has revised and updated his reference work Perfume Legends. Perfume Legends II includes the original list of fragrances covering the period from 1882 to 1992 (you can find that list in the review linked above) plus two that were left out: Robert Piguet Fracas (because the formulation was so bad at the time) and Guerlain Nahéma (because Edwards couldn't get the information he needed from Jean-Paul Guerlain). It then brings us up to 2010 with Serge Lutens Féminité du Bois, Rochas Tocade; Christian Dior J’Adore; Kenzo Flower; Chanel Coco Mademoiselle; L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu; and Frédéric Malle Portrait of a Lady. You can order a copy from Fragrances of the World for $145.
Every great perfume
Every great perfume probably loses the market test. It affronts, and so they mark it down. Yet it’s that very quality, I am convinced, that makes it memorable. Give me a fragrance that five per cent of people are totally addicted to and 70 per cent loathe, and I’ll give you a $100 million grant. The reality is that broad appeal means you have to compromise: you end up with the best of the worst and the worst of the best. The average perfume is nice and pretty and forgettable. It’s hard to find one that has enough guts to keep you going.
— Fragrance expert Michael Edwards, author of Perfume Legends. Perfume Legends II has just been published (look for an announcement later today). Read more at A fragrance connoisseur explains the ingredients required to make an iconic scent at Vogue Australia.