Helmut Lang Cuiron, Eau de Cologne & Eau de Parfum ~ fragrance reviews

Helmut Lang fragrance brand image

Helmut Lang’s perfumes (originally issued in the early 2000s) are often described as “cult” fragrances. I never tried the perfumes when they made their debuts so my reviews will tackle today’s re-release formulas.


Françoise Caron, perfumer | 2002 (bergamot, tangerine, pink pepper, cassia, carrot seed, olibanum, labdanum, cedar, ambrette, suede)

Cuiron is a sheer leather fragrance, a combination of muskiness and salty/aquatic leather — imitation ambergris? Though Cuiron feels light, it has good tenacity and casts a wide net upon initial application…

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Parfums Raffy

The last great classic

Perfumer Maurice Roucel on his own fragrances:

With «KenzoAir», man has accepted his feminine side and retained something of the little boy that he once was. For me, there is no such thing as a fragrance for men or a fragrance for women.

«Insolence» for Guerlain would not have been the same if it were made for another brand. Culture comes into play. It's a controlled insolence, which is positioned in the fruity family.

This [24, Faubourg], for me, is the last great classic. It represents all the elegance of Hermès. It's a distinguished woman whose femininity is expressed in an amber base. This fragrance took 5 years to develop.

This [DKNY Be Delicious] is the most extroverted of all my fragrances. It's romance in New York, with a floral structure to give it a form of originality and modernism.

(Quotes from 22 Perfumers / 22 Parfumeurs by Clara Molloy & Carine Soyer)

Friday scent of the day 2/19

Kenzo Fall 2013

It’s Maurice Roucel Friday! Our community project for today: wear a perfume by Maurice Roucel, if you have one. Thanks to Elisa for the suggestion!

What fragrance did you pick? As always, do chime in with your scent of the day even if you’re not participating in the community project.

I’m wearing Maurice Roucel’s Kenzo Air. (It is sadly discontinued.) I smell pretty fantastic. Tea at the moment: Upton Mincing Lane Breakfast Blend.

Reminder: on 2/26, crack that whip! We’re wearing leather…

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