Marni Rose ~ perfume review & quick flanker poll

Marni Rose perfume bottles

Marni Rose is the first flanker to Marni, the brand’s debut fragrance. It was announced as a “more intense” scent geared towards the Asian market. Now, a more intense scent geared towards the Asian market is a rare bird indeed, insofar as nearly everything geared towards the Asian market is made as light and inoffensive and clean as possible, but the claims turn out to be reasonably true. The original Marni, of course, was not exactly a powerhouse, so we are talking degrees of intense here.

Still, Marni was one of my favorite fragrance releases of 2013, and Marni Rose now joins the “best of” list as one of my favorite flankers of the year.1 It does exactly what a flanker ought to do: explores facets of the original fragrance whilst still being similar enough to justify keeping the name and the packaging (they’ve tinted the bottle in shades of pink, and switched the red cap for a black one). You could very reasonably want to own both, and you could just as easily find that you liked Marni Rose even if you didn’t quite love Marni…

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Bunch o’ limited edition collector bottles 2013, part 22

More limited edition collector fragrance bottles, with the usual disclaimers: in most of these cases, the juice is unchanged, just the bottle is “special” (or not, as the case may be), and some of these may not be available in the US.

Marni Metallic edition

From Marni, the Marni Metallic edition of their debut fragrance, scheduled to debut next month. 300 hand-painted bottles were made, sorry I don’t know the size or price…

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Marni by Marni ~ perfume review

Marni perfume bottleRaquel Zimmerman, advert for Marni

Because it’s a perfume that’s quite individual, that doesn’t evoke anything in particular. It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric.1

That’s Consuelo Castiglioni, founder and designer of the Italian fashion house Marni, talking about the brand’s recently-launched debut fragrance.2 Marni has been around since 1994, but I had never heard of them — not unusual given how little attention I pay to fashion, and if the fragrance takes off, it won’t be the first time that a luxury designer is best known for an affordable perfume — Viktor & Rolf, anyone?3 The thing that caught my eye right away was the packaging, which is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric, and which is also excellent good fun; plus, it doesn’t remind me of any other bottle I can think of — how often does that happen now that we’re getting 1000+ new fragrances a year? Also a plus: Estee Lauder holds the license and the perfumer is Daniela Andrier. Double bonus points: Consuelo Castiglioni apparently doesn’t like fruit, flowers or sweet. I don’t dislike any of those, mind you, but we get plenty enough of them on the fragrance counters already.

Despite Ms. Castiglioni’s preferences, Marni starts with a little whoosh of fruit, tinged green and mingling with bright citrus, but it’s not sweet, and neither the fruit nor the flowers take over the proceedings…

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