

Classics from Guerlain: Eau de Guerlain, “heralding a hot, fragrant summer in Provence”; $94 for 100 ml at Neiman Marcus. Or, Vetiver in an alcohol-free Deodorant Stick, $27 at Bloomingdales…

I’m a fan of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier; I wear, or have worn: Route du Vetiver (my favorite vetiver fragrance), Jardin du Nil, Parfum d’Habit, Iris Bleu Gris, and — a top compliment-getter — Baïmé. I’ve been looking forward to Bois de Turquie’s release and wondering what makes wood smell Turkish.
Bois de Turquie contains bergamot, tangerine, orange blossom, Laurus nobilis, geranium, iris, jasmine, ginger, cinnamon, sandalwood, patchouli, myrrh and frankincense. Bois de Turquie is smooth and semi-sweet on application; its citrus notes, both fruity and floral, are warm, not cold or bracing. The mid-development of Bois de Turquie smells a bit herbal and “leafy” (bay leaf and geranium become apparent). A powdery iris-jasmine accord follows the leafy stage and gives Bois de Turquie a quiet, lazy vibe…

The vetiver root, a plant originating from the Bourbon Islands, surprises with its raw strength and its warm, wooded scent.
Maître Parfumeur et Gantier unveils it in its most authentic state.
Hyperbole is generally a given in fragrance ad copy — no matter how dull the juice, we’ll be told a perfume sparkles with dazzling radiance, that it is exquisite, daring, sensual, luxurious, sublime and intoxicating. Maître Parfumeur et Gantier’s description of Route du Vetiver, quoted above, is that rare example of the opposite approach, “raw strength” being in this case something of an understatement.
I am a big fan of vetiver, but I’m not a purist about it. Almost any variation will please me, from the genial and summery (Paul Smith Story) to the buried-in-roots-and-damp-earth (Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire). I’ll even take my vetiver toasted with a little vanilla sugar (Hermes Vetiver Tonka). Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vetiver (notes of Bourbon vetiver, black currant, green leaves, precious woods, jasmine, sandalwood and musk) is the wild beast of vetiver fragrances, and I haven’t quite come to terms with it…
Sanguine Muskissime was one of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's original fragrance offerings when the line was established in 1988. It is composed of bergamot, mandarin, peach, blood orange, grapefruit, lemon, jasmine, musk and sandalwood.
I first tried Sanguine Muskissime several years ago, and was not overly fond of it. A sample recently came my way again and I thought I would give it another go. For a few minutes, I thought it might work for me this time: the top notes are a lovely, sparkling blend of citrus, very bright and summery…

In Black is the latest fragrance release from the Spanish design house J Del Pozo. The fragrance was created by nose Christine Nagel and features pink grapefruit, rose, black cherry, black lily, peach wine, jasmine, violet, vanilla, musk, patchouli, cedar and liquorice wood. No word on when this will be in stores…