Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin ~ fragrance review & a quick poll

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin brand image

Pretending that you’re an artist when what you’ve made smells like the fragrance right next to it… all that bullshit! The business is full of bullshit.

Hear, hear! That’s perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, at the end of a long discussion with Persolaise about why perfumery is not art (among other subjects — if you have not read the interview, it is worth the time, and don’t miss part 2). It’s the sort of thing most perfumers don’t say in public, and his candor is one of many reasons I have always found Mr. Kurkdjian — or at least, his public persona — extremely likable.

I don’t always find his perfumes as appealing as his person, though. That is not to say I don’t like his work, because I do think he’s a brilliant perfumer. But in general I don’t feel the same sort of natural affinity for his perfumes that I do for those of some other perfumers or brands…

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Perfume is such an easy subject to lie about ~ an interview with Francis Kurkdjian, part 1

Francis Kurkdjian with bubbles

Today’s guest post is from Persolaise, the author of the Le Snob – Perfume guide, published by Hardie Grant. He is also the editor of the Persolaise blog, as well as a regular contributor to Basenotes. He has won four UK Jasmine Awards, most recently for Closer To Heaven, a guide to incense perfumes which appeared in The Scented Letter.

I can’t believe that almost three years have passed since I last interviewed Francis Kurkdjian. For a while, his face was a regular fixture on my blog, headlining posts which invariably featured strong opinions and controversial views, many of which prompted readers to share their own feelings in the Comments section. But, for one reason or another, after a flurry of meetings, our paths refused to cross for months on end.

During that time, his eponymous brand has grown in stature and popularity: he now has his own boutiques in Taiwan and Malaysia. He’s continued to make perfumes for high-street names (Jean-Paul Gaultier, Nina Ricci, Yves Rocher). And he’s become an in-house creator, of sorts, for Burberry, Carven and Elie Saab. At the start of February, he popped into London’s Liberty store for an ‘Evening With A Perfumer’ event organised by The Perfume Society. But before facing his fans, he kindly agreed to have an exclusive chat with me, over a cup of coffee and a biscuit…

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