
Lorenzo Villoresi has launched Theseus, a new scent in his Fantasy Fragrances series…

Lorenzo Villoresi has launched Theseus, a new scent in his Fantasy Fragrances series…


Lorenzo Villoresi was one of the first niche perfume houses that I ever explored, and Teint de Neige (“the color of snow”) was my immediate favorite from its line of fragrances. Six years later, I still wear Teint de Neige regularly, particularly during the winter months. A small decant of this scent accompanied me on my recent holiday travels; appropriately enough, I happened to be wearing it the day after Christmas, during an attempt to return home during a blizzard. On the long, slow ride back to the New York area, I had plenty of time to contemplate Teint de Neige and my reasons for loving it.
According to the Villoresi website, Teint de Neige evokes “the delicate rosy hue of a powdered face. The unmistakable scent of perfumed powders, the fragrance of face powder, the perfume of talc. . . . An aroma delicately permeated by the richness of the natural extracts of precious flowers, recalling the light, images and atmosphere of the belle-époque.” The “sweet, powdery and floral notes” of its composition are jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, tonka bean, heliotrope, and musk. Teint de Neige really does smell like powder — not baby powder, but some fragranced dusting powder that might have been found on a woman’s dressing table circa 1900. In its texture and its construction, it also feels like a Belle Époque gown: heavy, pale, and soft, but “corseted” into place…

Lorenzo Villoresi has launched Iperborea:
There, beyond the north wind, where the ocean breeze carries the fresh aroma of sea-spray…
Viktor & Rolf have introduced Flowerbomb Summer Fragrance La Vie En Rose (shown at right), a new lighter, warm-weather version of their popular Flowerbomb perfume, featuring notes of mandarin and bergamot. (via elle.nl) Also for summer, Paul Smith has reintroduced Paul Smith Sunshine Edition — you can find it now at Debenhams in the UK…
Every once in a while a perfume feels less like a mélange of scents than like a “thing”. Lorenzo Villoresi Alamut is an example. When Alamut has settled on my skin, I don’t think about flowers or fruit or wood — I think of a slice of warm brioche.
Alamut’s notes include osmanthus, aldehydes, rose, jasmine, powder, rosewood, narcissus, tuberose, ylang ylang, labdanum, amber, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, and leather, but they are so meltingly blended that teasing out any one note is difficult. I do smell a gentle powdery suede and maybe ylang ylang and rose, but this is not the sort of perfume that gives off occasional puffs of sandalwood or jasmine that separate from the total formula before blending in again. I want to call Alamut spicy, animalic, and oriental, but these descriptors give Alamut an edge that it doesn’t have. Alamut is spicy like snickerdoodles and animalic like the inside of an old Hermes bag. Despite its baroque collection of notes, to me Alamut reads as one smooth, deep presence, as soft and buttery as cashmere…