Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L’Aigle Russe ~ fragrance review

Oriza L. Legrand Cuir de L'Aigle Russe label

Oriza L. Legrand’s latest perfume has a strange name — Cuir de L’Aigle Russe.1 No, this is not the scent of a ‘Russian’ eagle’s tanned skin…I assume we’re in “Royal Leather” territory. Oriza L. Legrand is one of my favorite new fragrance houses of the last several years. So many of their perfumes are on my to-buy list that I’m paralyzed with indecision and will probably buy none. After my first sniff of it, Cuir de L’Aigle Russe also went on this weird active-but-inactive to-buy list.

Cuir de L’Aigle Russe begins with a dry lemon-bergamot accord; I detect fuzzy geranium leaf with a hint of rose, warm immortelle snuggling with cardamom and a burst of non-species-specific floral indoles…

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Prism Parfums Geminesse ~ fragrance review


We fans of floral leather fragrances may be in the minority, but we’re passionate. There’s something about floral delicacy playing against rough, salty leather, and even better when the leather is softened by moss. If you love floral leathers, the Prism Parfums reissue of Geminesse won’t cause you to abandon your bottle of Chanel Cuir de Russie, but it’s worth a sniff — especially at its price.

Max Factor first released Geminesse in 1974…

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The Different Company I Miss Violet ~ fragrance review

The Different Company I Miss Violet

I Miss Violet is the latest from French niche line The Different Company, working with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour (shown above left). It’s a unisex floral / vegetal leather, and the brand’s description is reasonably close to reality:

Discover a vegetal leather accord at the heart and the base of the sillage. Bertrand Duchaufour creates the fragrance like a sculptor and brings out green notes with the freshness of basil and tangerine right behind a vibrant and sparkling champagne note…

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Masque Milano Russian Tea ~ fragrance review

Masque Milano Russian Tea

There’s a kind of fragrance that especially intrigues me: it’s the type that reads as warm and cool at the same time. This kind of fragrance’s notes are warm — leather, spices, wood, for instance — but its overall feeling is thin and cool, like a splash of scented water. Masque Milano Russian Tea is that sort of fragrance.

Perfumer Julien Rasquinet developed Russian Tea. Its notes include mint, black pepper, raspberry, black tea, magnolia, everlasting flower (also known as immortelle), leather accord, incense, birchwood and labdanum. If you’re thinking this sounds a bit like Annick Goutal Duel, you’re right. Russian Tea might be Duel’s tougher brother, the one who came straight from the stables to lunch…

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Parfums de Nicolai Cuir Cuba Intense ~ fragrance review

Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense, brand image

Taking into consideration perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï’s description1 (and name) of her new perfume and its notes list2…you might expect Parfums de Nicolaï Cuir Cuba Intense to be the scent equivalent of laying inside a new leather trunk on cushions stuffed with highly scented cured tobacco leaves. In press materials, Nicolaï raves about the aromas of dried tobacco leaf, unlit cigars, and even cigar boxes.

Cuir Cuba Intense is too sophisticated to simply replicate, literally, tobacco and leather aromas; it’s so sophisticated it barely brings them to mind at all…

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