Model and television host Heidi Klum will launch Shine, her debut fragrance for women, in September. Shine is a floriental, and was made under arrangements with Coty…
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Givenchy L'Interdit vintage, 2002 and 2007 versions ~ perfume review
The story goes that in 1957 the clothing designer Hubert de Givenchy commissioned perfumer Francis Fabron to create a fragrance especially for his favorite client, Audrey Hepburn. Fabron had already earned his perfumer's chops as the nose behind Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps and the original Robert Piguet Baghari. Reportedly, Hepburn was so taken with the scent that when Givenchy mentioned marketing it she said, “But I forbid you!” So the fragrance earned its name — L'Interdit means “forbidden” in French.
Vintage Givenchy L'Interdit is a warm, feminine aldehydic floral with a hint of peach and strawberry, and a buttery sandalwood drydown spiked with incense. Like many aldehydic florals, it smells first and foremost like perfume. As the aldehydes fade, L'Interdit settles into a chiffon veil of scent that is subtle and beautifully blended. Its floral heart is creamy with ylang ylang, iris, and rose, but a pinch of spice keeps it from being flabby. As the scent fades it sweetens slightly and its softness feels like powder more than smells like it…
5 Perfumes for: a Flanker Skeptic
Flankers make me cranky*. When a flanker is bad, it debases the coinage of the original. I recently spoke with a perfume sales assistant who refused to believe I smelled so lovely because I was wearing Boucheron Jaïpur Saphir. This is because I was not wearing Boucheron Jaïpur Saphir. I was wearing plain ol’ Jaïpur and said so — only to be told: “There is no Just Jaïpur.” With the dizzying rate of flankerizing and discontinuation as well as misinformation from friendly and seemingly authoritative sources, what hope has the average person of keeping this stuff straight?
Almost as irritating to me as a flanker that fails to live up to its predecessor is the sequel that succeeds on completely different terms. Dior Poison’s second flanker, Hypnotic Poison, for example, is a creamy, girlish dream of a fragrance, reminiscent of such wholesome smells as suntan lotion and root beer floats. I’m sure it would have sold at least equally well under another name. Why force a family resemblance where there is none? The only reason I can think of that is consistent with my experience of the perfume industry and buying public is that flankers must be cheaper to make. Presumably Dior saves on the bottle design and less thinking was required all around from the marketing team…
Ego Facto ~ new perfume line
Ego Facto is a new perfume line from Pierre Aulas, and has debuted at Marionnaud in France with 7 perfumes: 4 for women and 3 for men:
Fool for Love for women was developed by perfumer Laurent Bruyère. The spicy floral features coconut punch accord, cinnamon, frangipani and woods.
Poopoo Pidoo is a powdery floral for women…
Calvin Klein Obsession ~ an appreciation (of sorts)
Calvin Klein launched Obsession in 1985, and it was the brand's first blockbuster in fragrance, far outselling the two fragrances that preceded it (Calvin Klein for women and Calvin for men, both long discontinued). Like many of the fragrances of the period, it was not meant to speak softly:
“The name Obsession is big, like a movie poster for this era,” said Calvin Klein. “I think of everything I've ever done, how obsessed I was. Everyone is obsessed in the Eighties. And, of course, the name suggests an obsession with someone. A man obsessed by a woman.” (via Women's Wear Daily, 1/18/1985)
Obsession hit its mark perfectly; based on the steamy advertising and magazine scent strips, it reportedly sold out at many stores before they even had the first shipment in stock. It continued to be a big-seller well into the 1990s…
