Hermès will introduce Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate and Eau de Néroli Doré, two new additions to the brand’s unisex Cologne collection, in February…
"To put oud in a fragrance is not Hermès: it's a marketing approach to perfumery for those who follow the money," says Jean-Claude Ellena, the legendary French brand's in-house perfumer, with disdain.
The physical nature of the perfume is that it evaporates, and disappears. Nothing can prevent the perfume from disappearing. Because it disappears, if you want to find that sensation, that smell again, you have to perfume yourself again. It’s the same thing with food. It's more interesting because you take a spoon and taste something and the actual taste only lasts one or two seconds, no more. But you start again, and you eat again. To start again and again and again and again until you are filled up.
— Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, talking to New York Magazine (along with Christine Nagel, whose first perfume for Hermès will apparently launch in January). Read more at Dump Someone If You Hate Their Smell.
"My approach is very intellectual. I don’t do a lot of work,” [Jean-Claude Ellena] said, smiling. “I’m thinking a lot and making tiny changes. Christine [Nagel] is trying 20 times – her approach is much more intuitive.” On the day that we met, this was made manifest by two blue stickers on Nagel’s arm – perfume trials that she had been working on earlier that day. Ellena, by contrast, never wears scent – save for Terre d’Hermès about three times a year – the better to neutralise his nose.
— Read more about the changing of the guard at Hermès at Hermès perfume: scents of beauty at The Telegraph.