
French niche line Jovoy Paris has launched the Parisian Perfumer collection, comprising six new fragrances: Private Label, Ambre Premier, L’Arbre de la Connaissance, L’Enfant Terrible, La Liturgie des Heures and Psychédélique…

French niche line Jovoy Paris has launched the Parisian Perfumer collection, comprising six new fragrances: Private Label, Ambre Premier, L’Arbre de la Connaissance, L’Enfant Terrible, La Liturgie des Heures and Psychédélique…

Normally, I would keep my distance from a perfume house like XerJoff. I mean, why break my heart? Even XerJoff’s refill bottles start at $270 for 50 ml, and let’s not even get started on the cost of the quartz or Murano bottles. At these prices, Amouage begins to look like a bargain. But fate intervened when XerJoff asked me to help write copy for their new brochure. Not only did I get to sample all of the XerJoff fragrances, I was paid in perfume. Two bottles of it. I chose Irisss and one of the new releases, Richwood.
Over the years, I’ve learned that things that are truly beautiful evoke a physical response. Who hasn’t hovered on the brink of tears at a moving piece of music or gasped at a turn in the road revealing a breathtaking sweep of scenery? Even the mundane can be beautiful that way: Just last night I had a bite of roast lamb with truffled leeks and parsnips that made my heart beat faster. For me, both Irisss and Richwood elicited the sharp, physical thrill of beauty when I first smelled them.
Jacques Flori, the nose behind Etro Messe de Minuit, Etro Shaal Nur, and Amouage Opus IV, composed Irisss Eau de Parfum. Its notes include Florentine iris butter, carrot seed, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang absolute, violet leaves, vetiver, and cedarwood. To me, Irisss is a Monte Carlo showstopper of an iris — almost bigger and more lush than real life. In short, Irisss is to iris as Guerlain Nahéma is to rose…

Next month, Amouage launches Opus IV, the fourth fragrance in the Library Collection (see Opus I, II and III):
The latest inspiring creation was especially crafted to instill knowledge and empowerment in efforts to promote HIV / AIDS awareness by Creative Director Christopher Chong, who worked assiduously with renowned perfumers in Grasse…

My first niche perfume purchase was a bottle of Etro Vetiver Eau de Cologne way back in 1990. I bought Vetiver, along with some wonderful Etro soaps, at Etro’s Beverly Hills boutique, and I became an instant Etro fragrance fan. Over the years, I’ve owned several bottles of Etro Vetiver, Sandalo and Magot; I’ve also enjoyed bottles of Messe de Minuit (the fragrance that helped launch the Incense Revolution in perfumery) and Patchouly. In the early Nineties, Etro’s perfumes smelled exciting, rich and different to my baby “department store-trained” nose and a new, expensive, niche perfume passion was born. Etro led to Comptoir Sud Pacifique, which led to Jean-François Laporte (L’Artisan Parfumeur), which led to Creed, which led to Czech & Speake, which led to Penhaligon’s…on and on to this day.
Etro Vetiver, by perfumer Jacques Flori, was released in 1989 and lists notes of artemisia, clary sage, cypress, cedar, tobacco and Bourbon vetiver. Etro Vetiver opens with green artemisia and sage; the herbal, forest-y notes are strong and clear — invigorating…
Reminiscence has launched Sol La and Si Do, the second two fragrances in a projected series exploring musical and gourmand themes, Les Notes Gourmandes (see Do Ré and Mi Fa). Sol La and Si Do were developed by perfumer Jacques Flori.
Sol La ~ a citrus gourmand with notes of citron, bergamot, orange, bigarade, eucalyptus, lavender, pine, rosemary, heliotrope, almond, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, tonka bean, benzoin and musk…