Posted by Robin
on
24 May 2012
I love Prada‘s Infusion d’Iris. I bought a bottle when it launched in 2007, and it’s nearly drained — that probably doesn’t seem too impressive, but I own a lot of perfume at this point. To finish off anything, I must really like it.
I haven’t been so fond of the flankers (the Prada “Ephemeral Infusions“) and I didn’t see the need for the Eau de Toilette version of the original Infusion d’Iris, which was more citrusy and floral, less “rooty” — the rooty / earthy part of iris is the part I’m generally after (although mind you, Infusion d’Iris was not a root-fest in the manner of some iris fragrances). So the newest iteration, the Eau de Parfum Absolue, was more likely to appeal, and yes, that’s just how it turned out.
Like all the others in the Infusion series, Infusion d’Iris Absolue was developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier…
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It’s taken me a while to get around to trying the Pentachord fragrances from Tauer Perfumes, mainly just because they were difficult to find in New York City for a while and I never quite seemed to get around to placing a sample order. When I did finally try them this month, it was immediately apparent that White was my favorite of the three. Like its fellow Pentachords, White is composed from five synthetic ingredients — no more, no less. In this case, the fragrance’s central idea is “the clear melody of royal iris” and its notes are iris root, violet, rosewood, ambergris and Bourbon vanilla.
The official description for Pentachord White evokes “a white clean garden” that combines the “crisp beauty” of its flowers with the “warmth” of its trees and background. I’m noticing much more crispness than warmth in White: the note that makes the strongest impression on me is a cool, silvery-green violet. The violet never really gives way entirely to the softly rooty iris…
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Posted by Robin
on
15 March 2012
Today, I’m looking at two niche fragrances: LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front and Tableau de Parfums Dark Passage. They don’t really have all that much in common other than that they’re both limited edition fragrances made in support of outside projects. Oh, and I like them both.
LesNez Turtle Vetiver Front
Turtle Vetiver Front is the latest from Swiss niche line LesNez. It’s the second in their series of vetiver fragrances made in support of the Turtle “anarchic” salon (about which I know nearly nothing, but you can read more here). Vetiver Front was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen, and I adored her first in the series, Turtle Vetiver Exercise No. 1. I thought of Exercise No. 1 (which I believe is now sold out) as a kind of vetiver for vetiver freaks…
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Posted by Angela
on
20 December 2010
Normally, I would keep my distance from a perfume house like XerJoff. I mean, why break my heart? Even XerJoff’s refill bottles start at $270 for 50 ml, and let’s not even get started on the cost of the quartz or Murano bottles. At these prices, Amouage begins to look like a bargain. But fate intervened when XerJoff asked me to help write copy for their new brochure. Not only did I get to sample all of the XerJoff fragrances, I was paid in perfume. Two bottles of it. I chose Irisss and one of the new releases, Richwood.
Over the years, I’ve learned that things that are truly beautiful evoke a physical response. Who hasn’t hovered on the brink of tears at a moving piece of music or gasped at a turn in the road revealing a breathtaking sweep of scenery? Even the mundane can be beautiful that way: Just last night I had a bite of roast lamb with truffled leeks and parsnips that made my heart beat faster. For me, both Irisss and Richwood elicited the sharp, physical thrill of beauty when I first smelled them.
Jacques Flori, the nose behind Etro Messe de Minuit, Etro Shaal Nur, and Amouage Opus IV, composed Irisss Eau de Parfum. Its notes include Florentine iris butter, carrot seed, rose, jasmine, ylang ylang absolute, violet leaves, vetiver, and cedarwood. To me, Irisss is a Monte Carlo showstopper of an iris — almost bigger and more lush than real life. In short, Irisss is to iris as Guerlain Nahéma is to rose…
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Posted by Robin
on
26 August 2010
…I’d rather say that it is a perfume at the center of doubt; that the beam balance never settles between iris and hyacinth in the main accord, which is what makes the composition interesting. — Serge Lutens
It is rare that Serge Lutens says anything about his own fragrances that I find helpful, but in this case — he was doing an interview with Grain de Musc — he has so neatly summed up the experience of wearing his new Bas de Soie (silk stockings) that only a few more details need to be added.
First, the iris is that cosmetics-powder sort of iris, far from the turnips and dirt-caked roots of Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist. The whole fragrance is cold and spiky early on, and very peppery, and the hyacinth is green and slightly bitter; later, Bas de Soie is warmer, softer and sweeter, and as advertised, the two notes seem to weave in and out (or struggle for control, depending on your outlook) for hours without ceasing until it rather suddenly fades away…
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