Burberry My Burberry Black ~ fragrance review

Lily James for My Burberry Black

We’ve had the usual wave of “dark” and “noir” flankers this fall, and here’s another one: Burberry’s My Burberry Black, a flanker to My Burberry (2014). Like the original My Burberry, My Burberry Black was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. It’s described as “an intense and sensual reinterpretation…a London garden amidst a gathering storm; heavy rain contrasting with the warm and captivating flora,” and its notes include jasmine, candied rose, peach nectar, amber and patchouli.

I tried My Burberry when it was released and it didn’t make much of an impression on me. I just revisited it and it still seems to me like an inoffensive sweet pea perfume, easy to wear to work or brunch. My first impression of My Burberry Black, on the other hand, is that it’s best reserved for evening wear…

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Kenzo World ~ perfume review & a quick Kenzo poll

Margaret Qualley for Kenzo World

Ok perfumistas, give us a vote on Kenzo as a perfume house. Are you a fan? Not a fan? Or, like me, do you have nostalgic warm fuzzies for the good old days of dependable if not earth-shattering fragrances like KenzoAir and Kenzo Amour (or even farther back: Jungle L’Elephant), but look with some dismay on what seems lately to be little more than an endless stream of Flower and L’Eau Par Kenzo flankers?

Wherever you fall on the spectrum, the new Kenzo World is not likely to radically shift your outlook…

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Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin ~ fragrance review & a quick poll

Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin brand image

Pretending that you’re an artist when what you’ve made smells like the fragrance right next to it… all that bullshit! The business is full of bullshit.

Hear, hear! That’s perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, at the end of a long discussion with Persolaise about why perfumery is not art (among other subjects — if you have not read the interview, it is worth the time, and don’t miss part 2). It’s the sort of thing most perfumers don’t say in public, and his candor is one of many reasons I have always found Mr. Kurkdjian — or at least, his public persona — extremely likable.

I don’t always find his perfumes as appealing as his person, though. That is not to say I don’t like his work, because I do think he’s a brilliant perfumer. But in general I don’t feel the same sort of natural affinity for his perfumes that I do for those of some other perfumers or brands…

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