Posted by Jessica
on
1 October 2010
I wish I had a dollar for every time a fragrance salesperson has offered me a sniff of a new rose-based perfume while saying, in an apologetic, slightly lowered voice, “I’m not usually a rose person, but I really like this one.” He or she will go on to justify this unexpected liking for the fragrance by explaining, “It’s a really modern/fresh/youthful take on rose, not what you would expect.” Unfortunately, the scent in question often turns out to be exactly what I expected: a faint, synthetic-smelling rose note diluted and obscured with so much bright citrus and sheer musk that the result is, indeed, a fragrance for non-rose-lovers.
Andy Tauer makes no such apologies or justifications with Tauer Perfumes‘ Scent no. 10, Une Rose Vermeille. It is not a soliflore, but the fragrance’s overall impression is definitely the “scarlet rose” of its name, enriched by the other elements rather than masked by them — it is, as the perfumer himself says, “a true homage to rose.” The composition includes top notes of lemon, bergamot, and lavender; a heart of rose, violet, and raspberry; and a base of vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, and ambergris.
The opening of Une Rose Vermeille is a characteristically Taueresque twist of greenish, herbaceous notes…
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Posted by Robin
on
3 June 2010
La Tulipe is the latest from niche line Byredo. Contrary to popular belief, there are fragrant tulip species, but it doesn’t much matter in this case — La Tulipe is “built around the idea of the tulip” and isn’t meant as an exercise in photo-realism. Just as well, because what it mostly smells like is freesia.
Freesia is a funny thing. I love freesia as a cut flower, but as a perfume it does not suit me — most freesia scents are so much daintier than the real thing. The only straight-up freesia scent I ever bought was Diptyque’s Ofrésia, and I did not own it for long: turns out that I like the smell of freesia just fine in a vase, but not following me around all day on my own person. La Tulipe is not so heavily freesia-d as all that; it’s more like a mix of spring flowers…
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Posted by Robin
on
21 April 2009
Versense is the latest fragrance for women from Versace, and as I posted last month, it promises to highlight notes from the Mediterranean and to “perfectly interpret the contrast between freshness and sexiness”. Donatella Versace elaborated on the theme:
Versense perfectly represents the Versace woman. I created a fragrance to make her feel incredibly lighter. There’s something very optimistic and confident about being free, and it was that feeling that I tried to capture for Versense. (via Women’s Wear Daily, 3/20/2009)
If lighter and fresher is what you’re after, Versense might just fit the bill. Like yesterday’s Essence by Narciso Rodriguez, Versense was developed by perfumer Alberto Morillas, and like Essence, Versense opens whistling-clean. The early stages are crisp, green, lemon-lime-y and fresh, with the emphasis on the fresh…
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Posted by Angela
on
13 April 2009
Last night in a fit of optimism, I packed my winter sweaters and heavy wool skirts into plastic tubs and hauled them to the basement. Out came the cotton dresses and print blouses. Naturally, this morning was chilly, and I see rain splashing into the birdbath outside my window as I write. It’s the cold edge of spring. I want a perfume that is an antidote to the amber, leather, tobacco, and vanilla I’ve been wearing for months. I want something that hints at warm days to come and smells like the air outside: crisp, floral, and green. This is when I reach for Annick Goutal Des Lys Eau de Toilette.
A lily’s fragrance is potent. This has advantages and disadvantages. The pure, thick scent of just one stem of Stargazer lilies on the mantel will steamroll over the odor of dank carpets or an overfull litter box. Within a minute of coming into a room, guests will say, “It smells good in here.” At the same time, lilies can overtake a space, giving it the feel of funeral parlor and fighting with the smell of dinner in the other room. After an hour, guests may well ask for aspirin…
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Posted by Robin
on
25 March 2009
Alfred Sung will launch Always, a new “wedding-oriented” sparkling floral fragrance for women inspired by Grace Kelly, next month.
Always was developed by perfumer Clement Gavarry; the notes include water lily, kumquat, neroli, pink peony, honeysuckle, orris absolute…
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