Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque ~ fragrance review

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque with wild tobacco images

It’s been a long time since I’ve loved a new Serge Lutens perfume release. Today, I’m reviewing an eleven-year-old Lutens, a personal favorite. I’ve referenced Fumerie Turque1 in almost every tobacco-perfume review I’ve posted over the years, yet never got around to writing about it. I’m down to my last half-inch of Fumerie Turque, so it’s now or, maybe, never!

Tobacco perfumes are varied, but the actual tobacco note I smell most often in colognes is domineering. Even when surrounded by other strong fragrance notes, eventually, tobacco will triumph.

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Serge Lutens Chergui ~ fragrance review

Serge Lutens Chergui, doubled

Dallying with Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Oud sent me looking for my sample of Serge Lutens Chergui. It had probably been a couple of years since I’d smelled it. When it took more than a minute to find the tiny vial in a shoebox of samples, I wondered why I was going to all the trouble. Chergui is tobacco and hay. A nice spicy oriental. I know what this one is all about, right? Wrong.

As I’ve been discovering lately with other fragrances I’ve haven’t smelled in a while, Chergui is not exactly what I remembered. Maybe it’s because I’ve sampled so many perfumes between now and the last time I sniffed Chergui and so have a larger frame of reference. Or maybe my taste is changing. But today Chergui to me smells much more complete and complex than I’d remembered…

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Like nighttime and strawberry jam

We wanted to keep this jasmine because it has a particular smell. What is special about this jasmine is that it has a slight green tea smell and a sweetness -- a molecule that is also found in strawberries.

It doesn't smell like flowers in fact, rather a sensual potion. Like nighttime and strawberry jam.

— Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake on the jasmine grown for Chanel by the Mul family in Grasse. Read more at In Essence, at Ireland's Independent.