It was Bois des Îles by Chanel. Don’t ask me why, I wouldn’t be able to answer you, but this fragrance transports me.
— Perfumer Christine Nagel on her first fragrance. Read more at Nose to Nose With Christine Nagel at Rectoverso.
Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate and Eau de Néroli Doré are the latest additions to ‘Les Colognes’ at Hermès. It is not my favorite collection — I own a lot of Hermès fragrances, but only one from this series, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose (I do also keep a small bottle of the older Eau d’Orange Verte, which was repackaged into this series in 2009). But still, I’m always glad to see something new from the brand that takes most of my perfume dollars, and I was especially curious since the rhubarb is the first fragrance for Hermès signed by perfumer Christine Nagel, who joined Jean-Claude Ellena as house perfumer in 2013.
Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate is, as I said above, the Christine Nagel scent, and the description, “the crisp and tangy freshness of rhubarb softened with white musks”, is pretty accurate…
The physical nature of the perfume is that it evaporates, and disappears. Nothing can prevent the perfume from disappearing. Because it disappears, if you want to find that sensation, that smell again, you have to perfume yourself again. It’s the same thing with food. It's more interesting because you take a spoon and taste something and the actual taste only lasts one or two seconds, no more. But you start again, and you eat again. To start again and again and again and again until you are filled up.
— Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, talking to New York Magazine (along with Christine Nagel, whose first perfume for Hermès will apparently launch in January). Read more at Dump Someone If You Hate Their Smell.
"My approach is very intellectual. I don’t do a lot of work,” [Jean-Claude Ellena] said, smiling. “I’m thinking a lot and making tiny changes. Christine [Nagel] is trying 20 times – her approach is much more intuitive.” On the day that we met, this was made manifest by two blue stickers on Nagel’s arm – perfume trials that she had been working on earlier that day. Ellena, by contrast, never wears scent – save for Terre d’Hermès about three times a year – the better to neutralise his nose.
— Read more about the changing of the guard at Hermès at Hermès perfume: scents of beauty at The Telegraph.