Atelier Cologne, a new niche perfume house based in Paris and New York, recently introduced its range of five fragrances. Atelier’s signature concept is the “cologne absolue”: fragrances inspired by the historic recipe of the original “Eau de Cologne” — a mixture of citrus and herbal ingredients — but blended in stronger concentrations for a richer and more lasting effect. Each of the fragrances in Atelier’s debut collection is centered around a citrus motif, and each is intended to embody a “singular moment” of memory and experience.
My current favorite from Atelier is Grand Néroli, created by perfumer Cécile Krakower. Grand Néroli opens with a radiant burst of neroli and orange blossom (those two lovely, but differently-achieved, products of the same flower). This opening accord is soon pierced by more astringent notes of lemon and petitgrain, for a lively blend that mellows after an hour or so. Grand Néroli’s middle phase includes a salty aspect with a very subtle “beachy” feeling, but it never becomes as marine-like as Le Labo Neroli 36. The galbanum seems to extend the citrus notes without turning them too green…
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Posted by Robin
on
13 November 2008
Lilly Pulitzer, the preppy brand known for their brightly colored print dresses, has launched a trio of new fragrances for women: Beachy, Squeeze and Wink.
Beachy (shown above left) ~ “Palm Beach isn't just a place, it's a state of mind. Escape to the beach no matter the season and remind yourself of a time of fun and relaxation.” Beachy was developed by perfumer Karine Dubreuil, and the notes feature watermelon, citrus, marine air accord, jasmine, tiare flower, frangipani, salt crystals, amber and vanilla…
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Posted by Robin
on
29 October 2008
Everybody hates Paris, but she is on the front page.
That’s Neil Katz of Parlux speaking.1 Parlux holds the Paris Hilton fragrance license, and Katz has good reason to be optimistic about her selling power: the Paris Hilton fragrances have reportedly made some $90 million. So far. As of early October, Fairy Dust had already added another $1.5 million to the kitty, and it’s expected to net $20 million before it’s all over and done with.2
I’ve puzzled over the fascination with Paris Hilton. I used to chalk it up to a kind of schadenfreude — that is, that people enjoyed watching a young woman who presumably had everything screw up royally. But schadenfreude wouldn’t sell perfume, would it? No, the perfume presumably has to sell on some sort of aspirational level. Either young women wish they could be Paris Hilton, or they assume that someone with her lifestyle must have excellent taste in perfume plus the resources to produce something fabulous.
Paris Hilton may well have excellent taste in perfume, who knows? All I can say is that no such refinement is reflected in her fragrance line…
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Posted by Robin
on
26 September 2008
Paris Hilton will launch Fairy Dust, her latest fragrance for women, next month. The ad campaign will feature Hilton as a fairy, and will debut later in the year. Neil Katz of Parlux Fragrances (the company that holds the Paris Hilton fragrance license) noted that “Everybody hates Paris, but she is on the front page”…
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Posted by Robin
on
23 September 2008
My heroes are the people who try to stay true to their vision despite the industry and its pressure, the ones fighting against soulless products, the ones making sure there is a connection between the juice, the name, the packaging and the positioning: anybody who loves the product enough to make sure it will be done right. How do you expect an emotional response to a product that you don't love yourself?
— Perfumer Cecile Krakower, quoted in Marian Bendeth's Scent Treks Through Time series at Basenotes.
