Browsing by tag: bertrand duchaufour

Neela Vermeire Creations Trayee & Bombay Bling ~ fragrance reviews

The new Paris-based fragrance line Neela Vermeire Créations has released three perfumes inspired by India: Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling (all developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour). Mohur, a neon-bright, rose-focused scent, doesn’t appeal to me, but I enjoy Trayee and Bombay Bling. Trayee smells “serious,” even studious, while Bombay Bling is full of cheer — a great pair! The Trayee “type” will earnestly discuss Chola art and the meaning of nirvana, while Bombay Bling guzzles fruity cocktails, gossips and screams with delight while watching Devdas… for the fifteenth time.

Trayee

blue ginger, elemi, cinnamon, ganja effects, blackcurrant, basil, jasmine, cardamom, clove, saffron, sandalwood, vetiver, incense, patchouli, myrrh, vanilla, cedar, amber, oud and oak moss

Trayee starts off with strong saffron and “green” medicinal aromas; as it dries, this opening accord conjures the scent of “leather.” Trayee is a well-blended fragrance and you have to strain to smell ginger, blackcurrant and cardamom — but they are there. In Trayee’s base (my favorite — and the longest lasting — part of the fragrance) rich cedar and oud notes appear alongside touches of piney elemi and dark, smoky tobacco-‘marijuana’…

Read the rest of this article »

15 Comments

Neela Vermeire Creations ~ new fragrances

Neela Vermeire Créations

Neela Vermeire Créations is a new Paris-based niche line exploring the history of India through three fragrances, Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling. All three scents were developed by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour

Read the rest of this article »

18 Comments

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10 ~ fragrance review

L'Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero 10

Two and a half years ago, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour created ten fragrances. “Sure,” you might say, “And he’s created another couple of dozen since then. Big deal.” The thing is, he only made one bottle of each of these fragrances. L’Artisan Parfumeur put them on the market for $20,000 each. Now L’Artisan is producing eight of those fragrances for the masses for the relative bargain of $200 for 100 ml. Of them, Mon Numéro 10 piqued my interest right away.

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s PR machine says of Mon Numéro 10, “This last act will be explosive. After our travels, secret tributes and other sensual pleasures, this perfume is an explosion of warm, enveloping notes. Quite simply addictive. A heady, memorable ode to a highly sought-after note of oriental perfumes. Mon Numéro 10, with its eccentric, piercing mood, is like an evening gown that turns heads all on its own.”

Well. Does anyone else get an image of trains and bombs and evening dresses walking around without anyone in them? Let me simplify the description of Mon Numéro 10: it’s a spicy leather oriental. My thumbnail review? Leather cola…

Read the rest of this article »

56 Comments

Penhaligon’s Esprit du Roi, Eau Sans Pareil ~ new fragrances

Penhaligon's Esprit du Roi

British niche line Penhaligon’s has added two more (and reportedly, the last) fragrances to their Anthology collection (“breathing new life into fragrances from our archive”), Esprit du Roi and Eau Sans Pareil…

Read the rest of this article »

6 Comments

Eau d’Italie Jardin du Poete ~ fragrance review

Based in Positano, its perfumes inspired by Italy — Baume du Doge (Venice), Bois d’Ombrie (Umbria), Eau d’Italie (Positano), Magnolia Romana (Rome), Paestum Rose (Paestum) and Sienne l’Hiver (Siena) — niche line Eau d’Italie’s fragrance names are in French (Perché? Do more people know how to pronounce French than Italian? Are French titles more “perfume-y”?) Eau d’Italie also uses a French perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour, to create many of its fragrances, and I’ve enjoyed (almost) all of his Eau d’Italie perfumes (Magnolia Romana excepted).

Working with Eau d’Italie’s owners, Marina Sersale and Sebastián Alvarez Murena, Duchaufour supposedly took two years of “intense development” to create Jardin du Poète:

The inspiration for this fragrance is a tale from a bygone era, when nations were ruled by poets, and poets were sacred to Apollo. In those days Sicily was a Greek colony, Syracuse was a fragrant court, and its gardens vibrated with the scent of citrus orchards and rows of aromatic plants. Thus “Jardin du Poete”, the poet’s garden, a luminous fragrance to evoke Sicily and all things Sicilian.

It would require another article to tackle the confused notions expressed in that PR blip, but I’ll take Eau d’Italie at its word when it states it wanted Jardin du Poète to be “deliciously original and uncompromisingly contemporary.” Jardin du Poète succeeds on one of those two counts…

Read the rest of this article »

24 Comments
  • Shop for perfume

    Parfum1
  • Subscribe to NST

  • Search

  • Login to comment

  • Browse by…

  • Advertisement

  • Blogroll

  • From NST at Twitter

    nowsmellthisnowsmellthis: Stella McCartney in conversation with Alexandra Shulman (video, talks about new scent L.I.L.Y) http://t.co/VAKYigvK
    16 hours ago
    nowsmellthisnowsmellthis: "French parfumier Guerlain on trial over 'race slurs'" article at Telegraph http://t.co/lVDxoZMi
    18 hours ago
    nowsmellthisnowsmellthis: Scents of Self interviews Victoria of Bois de Jasmine http://t.co/2WoMMRyV
    2 days ago
    nowsmellthisnowsmellthis: "New Yankees fragrance strikes nostrils this month" http://t.co/yEyXibgl
    2 days ago
    nowsmellthisnowsmellthis: Vote for NST's Mood Board on FB and win a Zoya Nail Polish collection! http://t.co/MXHMN7I3
    2 days ago