Browsing by tag: antoine maisondieu

Etat Libre d’Orange Fat Electrician ~ fragrance review

Etat Libre d'Orange Fat Electrician, logo

Wandering around on a recent rainy Sunday, a friend and I stepped into Una, a tiny shop on the working class side of town. The clothing was tremendously chic, all Italian fabrics and clever design. In a different life, when my womanly figure turns gamine and my penchant for nipped waists and rhinestones fades, I’ll have one of each on the rack. The jewelry was fabulous, too, and I’m saving up for a bronze Monica Castiglioni ring. But what really pleased me, was that in this shop — this little shop that could fit inside my living room —was a row of Etat Libre d’Orange perfumes.

Forget the rain, I was ecstatic. They didn’t have my two favorites, Jasmin et Cigarette (“We could never sell that here, people wouldn’t get it,” the owner told me later) and Like This, but Vraie Blonde sat in front, and several fragrances I wanted to get to know better lined up behind it. One of them was Fat Electrician Eau de Parfum. I took home a sample…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarette ~ perfume review

Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette logoEtat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette logo

Etat Libre d’Orange, as a brand, doesn’t really suit me, which is a shame because it’s one of the few niche lines that still sells a bottle for less than $100 (and as many of you will remember, $100 is the new free). I haven’t tried quite all of them — they’ve made a whopping 22 fragrances since they debuted in 2006 — but by now I’ve tried most of them. The one that impressed me the most (although it isn’t really “me”) was the brilliant Like This for Tilda Swinton; after that, I’d list Putain des Palaces and Vierges et Toreros as close calls, and I’d probably want a bottle of Fat Electrician if I didn’t already own a bazillionty-and-one vetiver fragrances, modern or otherwise.

But so far, I’ve never been tempted to buy, and only one Etat Libre scent has been sitting in my purgatory basket1 and that’s Jasmin et Cigarette. Since Kevin reviewed Sécrétions Magnifiques yesterday and Jessica is going to review Archives 69 tomorrow, it seemed like a good time to pull it out and decide one way or another…

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Etat Libre d’Orange Noel au Balcon ~ fragrance review

When I first heard about Noël au Balcon from Etat Libre d’Orange, it was being offered as a limited edition fragrance for the 2007 holiday season. I was disappointed that I wouldn’t have a chance to try it, since it was only available at Sephora in France. Fortunately, Noël au Balcon joined the permanent Etat Libre line-up about a year ago, and now that I’ve had a chance to wear it, the season seems right for a review. Noël au Balcon’s composition includes notes of tangerine, vanilla, honey, orange blossom, apricot, red pepper, patchouli, musk, cistus, cinnamon, nigella, and amber, and it was created by the perfumer Antoine Maisondieu (who has produced a number of fragrances for Etat Libre, including another of my favorites, the aldehydic peachy-floral Vraie Blonde).

Since we’re dealing with Etat Libre d’Orange, there is the requisite punning in the fragrance’s title and some racy imagery in its logo and its descriptive “story”; allusions to cleavage abound. The proverb “Noël au balcon, Pâques au tison” means that a warm Christmas — warm enough to spend on the balcony — will be followed by an unseasonably cool Easter (requiring “firebrands”). And the expression “avoir du monde au balcon,” or “the balcony is crowded,” is a reference to a shapely bosom…

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Burberry Brit Limited Edition 2010 ~ new fragrances

Burberry Brit Limited Edition

Burberry will launch new limited edition versions of Burberry Brit for men and women in October. The new duo “captures the atmosphere of the British winter season”…

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Guerlain Vega and Etat Libre d’Orange Vraie Blonde ~ fragrance review

Guerlain Vega, vintage advertGuerlain Vega perfume bottle

A statuesque blonde draped in bias-cut, ivory silk charmeuse is a classic image of glamour. She drinks champagne, has breakfast in bed on a tray, takes bubble baths, and breaks hearts. A puff of maribou trims the toe of each of her slippers. Now that this image is firmly in mind, let’s tweak it. Give our blonde a few years in a Swiss finishing school, a lusty appetite for lobster at midnight, and a laugh a little too loud for her patrician mother, and you have Guerlain Vega. Substitute wine coolers for the champagne, a facility for Pig Latin rather than French, and an addiction to patent leather heels from Payless, and you have Etat Libre d’Orange Vraie Blonde. They’re sisters from opposite sides of the tracks.

Jacques Guerlain created Vega, a blowsy floral aldehyde, in 1936…

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