Posted by Robin
on
8 September 2009
Vanilla & Anise is new from Jo Malone; it’s meant to “…evoke the moment that vanilla orchids bloom at day-break in Madagascar”, Madagascar being the world’s largest producer of vanilla.
Vanilla & Anise starts out bright and citrusy. It’s slightly sharp in the early stages, and very fresh. Patty at Perfume Posse found it melon-y aquatic, but I hardly noticed until I sprayed it on paper. On skin (my skin, anyway), the fresh notes pass by in a flash. It sweetens up quickly but it never gets more than slightly sweet, and the vanilla is balanced by a slightly bitter edge in the mostly transparent florals: it reminds me of wildflowers more than tropical florals (the notes: bergamot, neroli, wild fennel flower, star anise, oleander, tuberose, frangipani, purple vanilla orchid, clove, white amber, vetiver, vanilla bourbon absolute and tonka bean). The licorice notes are subtle, and the base is pale and woody, and just slightly earthy…
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Posted by Robin
on
4 February 2009
Coming soon from Avon, another collaboration with designer Christian Lacroix (see 2007's Avon + Christian Lacroix Rouge & Noir). The new oriental fragrance for women is Absynthe, inspired (obviously) by the green fairy.
The fragrance notes include absinthe, freesia, green anise, orchid, saffron, narcissus, ancient woods, ebony, musk, myrrh and amber…
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Posted by Robin
on
21 January 2009
When I reviewed Mark Buxton's Wood & Absinth last week, several people mentioned another vetiver + anise fragrance, Kenzo Air (or Kenzoair, as I believe the brand prefers). How I made it all this time without smelling Kenzo Air is a bit of a mystery to me, but I suppose the name “Air” was not all that appealing? Obviously I needed to smell it, and since it didn't seem to be available locally (and it's too cold to go outside anyway), I ordered some right away. I'd like to point out that I made it a full 13 days into 2009 before breaking rule no. 1 (or no. 2? I can't remember) and buying something unsniffed, but this was cheap enough that it wouldn't have killed me if I'd hated it. And lo and behold, everyone who commented was right: it's wonderful.
Kenzo launched Air in 2003; it was intended as…
… a breath of fresh air… it lets a man discover his inner child. The fragrance denotes an elegant, masculine presence, awakening childhood sensations and familiar impressions, shaking things up and reinventing them…
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Posted by Robin
on
29 March 2006
Anisia Bella was launched in 2004 as part of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria range of fragrances. It was created by perfumer Aurelien Guichard, and has notes of aniseed, orange, bergamot, basil, star anise, violet, jasmine, liquorice wood, and cedar.
I love anise-based perfumes, and Anisia Bella is one of my favorites for warmer days when Serge Lutens Douce Amere or Caron Aimez Moi are too heavy. Anisia Bella opens with lightly sugared citrus; the anise is pronounced from the start and stays central through the dry down. There is a minty-peppery undertone from the basil and a bit of sweet violet drifts in and out, but for the most part it is all about the anise. The base is musky and woody, with a fair amount of cedar…
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Posted by Robin
on
1 July 2005
Acqua di Parma launched Iris Nobile in 2004. The fragrance was created by Francis Kurkdjian and Francoise Caron and features notes of iris petals, star anise, mandarin, bergamot, cedar flower, orange blossom, iris roots, vanilla and amber crystals.
Iris Nobile starts with sharp, sparkling citrus and strong undertones of anise. Over the next 20 minutes, the anise fades, and in its place comes a soft orange blossom over a bed of buttery iris. The iris itself is very delicate and subdued, with just a whisper of powder…
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