Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque ~ fragrance review

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque with wild tobacco images

It’s been a long time since I’ve loved a new Serge Lutens perfume release. Today, I’m reviewing an eleven-year-old Lutens, a personal favorite. I’ve referenced Fumerie Turque1 in almost every tobacco-perfume review I’ve posted over the years, yet never got around to writing about it. I’m down to my last half-inch of Fumerie Turque, so it’s now or, maybe, never!

Tobacco perfumes are varied, but the actual tobacco note I smell most often in colognes is domineering. Even when surrounded by other strong fragrance notes, eventually, tobacco will triumph.

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Naomi Goodsir Or du Serail ~ fragrance review

The Turkish Page by William Merritt Chase, detail

It seems the more you throw into a perfume formula the less you smell (as in individual fragrance notes). Looking over the Naomi Goodsir Or du Sérail ingredients list (apple, orange, mango, coconut, honey, rum, tobacco, clary sage, maté, amber, davana, beeswax, cocoa, geranium, ylang ylang, oak, cedar, vanilla, labdanum, musk)…then sniffing Or du Sérail…bears this theory out. Most of those notes just blend in.

I’d love to have a magical machine; I’d place a perfume in the Per/Fume-Separator and order it: “Remove cocoa!” “Delete maté!” “Obliterate beeswax!” It would be interesting to see what notes do make a discernible difference in a scent…

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Arquiste The Architects Club ~ fragrance review

Arquiste The Architects Club

Cocktail time, March 1930, London: A group of architects gather for cocktails at Mayfair’s smartest Art Deco smoking room. As they settle in the warm interior of dark woods, leather and velvet, London’s bright young things burst in, frosted martinis in hand, surrounded by a cloud of laughter, white smoke and fine vanilla.

That’s Arquiste…talking about the inspiration for its latest perfume — The Architects Club. The fragrance was developed by one of my favorite perfumers, Yann Vasnier, who was guided in its creation by the imagined aromas of “the smoking room at Claridge’s in Mayfair” circa 1930. After smelling The Architects Club, I had to tweak the PR…

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Issey Miyake Nuit d’Issey ~ fragrance review

Issey Miyake Nuit d'Issey

Of the Big 3 Japanese design houses with perfume lines — Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake — it’s Miyake’s fragrances that have interested me the least (with one big exception, Feu d’Issey, and a smaller exception, a scent by issey miyake). Miyake’s most famous perfumes, L’Eau d’Issey and L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme, spawned almost-countless imitators, and the two “origin” perfumes today smell like caricatures of “fresh” fragrances (plenty of cleaning products smell like them, cleaning products you can buy at Target). Still, I approached the new Nuit d’Issey1 with an open mind (and nostrils).

Nuit d’Issey starts with greenish citrus (I smell mostly grapefruit) with a sweet-spice accord…

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Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle ~ fragrance review

Helichrysum prostratum

The East Coast has remained relatively (and uncharacteristically) cool and fresh this summer; out west, we’ve simmered and sweated (even in Seattle). Though I’ve done plenty of complaining about the heat, it’s been fun to experience a real summer for the first time in a … decade? I’ve been dousing myself with sunscreens, Eaux de Cologne, and perfumes with lots of jasmine, coconut and tropical flowers in them (beach-y things). Into this hot-weather perfume extravaganza, came a sample of Atelier Cologne Blanche Immortelle1 — an autumn scent.

Blanche Immortelle is part of Atelier Cologne’s Collection Métal which also includes Gold Leather, Silver Iris and Santal Carmin. When I first received my sample and dabbed an arm with Blanche Immortelle, I was not impressed; and I even told Robin here at NST that it was a nonentity and I would not be reviewing it. Weeeeeeell, I realized yesterday I got my samples mixed up; the nonentity is By Kilian Vodka on the Rocks. When I put a real application of Blanche Immortelle on my skin, I was much happier…

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