Anna Sui La Nuit de Boheme ~ fragrance review

Anna Sui La Nuit de Boheme advert

When Anna Sui launched La Vie De Bohème in 2013, I tried it as soon as I could, and then I promptly forgot all about it. I think it smelled a lot like 2010’s Forbidden Affair, but you could also have also shelved it with all the Secret Wish flankers. The thing is: yes, Anna Sui does design girlish frocks in sheer fabrics and pastel florals, the sartorial equivalent of airy, grapefruit-y scents in pink bottles. But the designer also offers a more sophisticated aesthetic in her clothing: beaded flapper dresses, cut-velvet tunics, tall boots, fringed scarves in vintage-inspired textiles, lots of black and purple and red.

I’m a longtime Anna Sui customer when it comes to items in the latter category (at least, when they’re on the sale rack!), so I was curious about La Nuit De Bohème Eau de Toilette. It’s meant to be a “more dramatic and elegant version” of La Vie, with notes of champagne citrus and blackberry; lotus flower, rose and oud; cedar, vanilla orchid, patchouli and amber. It was developed by perfumers Jérome Epinette and Michel Almairac, and it’s packaged in a very shiny golden iteration of the La Vie rose-and-butterfly bottle…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Jacinthe de Sapphir & Deco Diamonds ~ fragrance reviews

Denver Art Museum, Brilliant exhibit banner

In late 2014 independent perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz released her Brilliant Collection, a quartet of fragrances inspired by an exhibition of Cartier jewelry at the Denver Art Museum. I’ve been sampling the four Brilliant scents this week, and while I could go on and on about this interesting analogy between jewels and perfumes, and the language we use to describe both, I’ll try to stay on topic by sharing my thoughts on my two favorites from the collection.

Jacinthe de Sapphir was created to evoke “a densely blue, gorgeous hyacinth in the ground” and was “inspired by the Queen of Romania Sapphire, one of the famed Cartier jewels.” It has a composition of violet leaf, galbanum, bergamot and hyacinth; rose de mai, narcissus and tuberose; and tolu balsam, Peru balsam, vetiver, styrax and civet. As promised by Hurwitz, this fragrance evolves from “dewy” to “luscious and earthy.” It opens with a stemmy-green burst of galbanum that only gradually fades into a bouquet of floral notes…

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Von Euserdorff Classic Mimosa ~ fragrance review

Von Euserdorff Classic Mimosa

When it comes to perfumes and seasons, I’m never totally satisified. In the middle of summer, I long for cold weather to arrive so that I can wear my heavier, spicier fragrances. Then, as soon as winter hits the East Coast, I start craving light, airy scents and springtime florals. Luckily, a kind friend recently passed along a sample of Von Euserdorff Classic Mimosa, and it satisfied my need for an olfactory escape on a freezing day.

Classic Mimosa is a floral fragrance with top notes of bergamot, neroli and green leaves; heart notes of mimosa, violet, rose and a marine accord; and base notes of musk, orange blossom and vanilla. It’s a soft yet radiant interpretation of the mimosa flower that lasts well on my skin and lifts my mood…

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Houbigant Iris des Champs ~ fragrance review

Houbigant Iris des Champs, Eau de Parfum and Extrait

Houbigant Iris des Champs was released in fall 2014; it is the brand’s first launch since Orangers en Fleurs, a fragrance that I happened to enjoy quite a bit. Iris des Champs is described as “a heady, plush homage to iris,” with notes of bergamot, pink pepper, rose, lily of the valley, pear, iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, amber, woody notes, vanilla and musk. It was developed for Houbigant by perfumer Mathieu Nardin.

I looked forward to trying this fragrance, especially since I like many iris fragrances — and how beautiful is that packaging, right? Unfortunately, Iris des Champs didn’t quite live up to my expectations. I’ve been sampling the Extrait de Parfum version this week. It begins in a promising fashion, with a rooty-green iris accord. Weirdly, that iris only lasts about a half-hour…

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Guerlain French Kiss ~ fragrance review

Guerlain French Kiss

Guerlain recently launched French Kiss, a new fragrance for women and the latest addition to its Elixirs Charnels collection. French Kiss’s release was timed to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Guerlain’s KissKiss lipsticks, and it is described as a “glossy floral fragrance” with notes of raspberry, lychee, rose, violet, vanilla, heliotrope, iris and white musk.

I have quite a few favorites in Guerlain’s fragrance range (mainly the classic scents), and I’m also a fan of the brand’s cosmetics. I even own a KissKiss lipstick. And I typically love rose-and-violet perfumes. All in all, French Kiss sounded made for me. When I initially smelled it on a paper blotter, I was charmed by it. This week, however, I’ve been working my way through a sample vial and I’m feeling somewhat disenchanted…

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