Maria Christofilis Fleur 09 ~ fragrance review

Maria Christofilis Fleur 09

In 2012, Maria Christofilis (formerly of Anthousa) launched the feminine fragrance Fleur 09; it was limited to an edition of 80 bottles, and I somehow missed it both coming and going. Just this month, however, Christofilis has re-released the fragrance. Its formula remains unchanged: it is a white floral composition with notes of mandarin, bergamot, bitter orange, orange blossom, tuberose, vanilla and benzoin, originally developed privately for Christofilis by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux.

Fleur 09 is described as “a symphonic poem, exquisitely balanced and using only the finest and rarest oils—including best of the best elements from Givaudan’s Orpur® portfolio.” The Orpur range is reportedly a top-of-the-line collection of raw materials (all of them may be natural, or not — you know how hard it can be to determine this sort of thing!). I normally take this sort of “finest and rarest” claim with a grain of salt, but Fleur09 actually smells like a high-quality perfume…

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House of Cherry Bomb Pink Haze ~ fragrance review

House of Cherry Bomb Pink Haze

Just a week ago, I was lamenting the never-ending wave of pink-colored, pink-smelling, pink-themed fragrances. This one, however, is a very different take on pink. Pink Haze is the newest release from House of Cherry Bomb, the collaboration between New York-based independent perfumers Alexis Karl (of Scent by Alexis) and Maria McElroy (of Aroma M), and this fragrance is designed to evoke “the scent of tree-lined Brooklyn streets, of stone buildings, both old and new, and of the hot metal of subway cars. It is the heady yet ephemeral scent of gardens blooming with lily of the valley, gardenia, lilac and honeysuckle on early summer nights…equal parts classic and new, as is this city we live in.” In addition to those four florals, it includes notes of stone, metal and beeswax absolute.

Like House of Cherry Bomb’s Cardamom Rose and Tobacco Cognac, Pink Haze cleverly paints an entire scene using relatively few elements…

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Escada Joyful & Fendi Fan di Fendi Blossom ~ fragrance reviews

Escada Joyful & Fendi Fan di Fendi Blossom adverts

Just because it’s now officially fall in my part of the world doesn’t mean that we’re required to break out our deeper, spicier fragrances right away, right? Not when there’s still a fresh crop of pink perfumes in pink bottles to be sampled! I tried two new-ish ones this week, with mixed results.

First up: Escada launched Joyful, its latest fragrance for women, late in the summer. It’s a fruity floral whose notes include blackcurrant, melon, mandarin, peony, magnolia, nectarine, violet leaf, honey and sandalwood, and its ads feature model-of-the-moment Miranda Kerr riding a merry-go-round. (At least, she’s one of the models who seem to be everywhere right now.)

Escada hasn’t released anything but upbeat fruity florals in a long time, and Joyful fits the usual profile…

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Histoires d’Eaux Ete Indien ~ fragrance review

Histoires d'Eaux Été Indien

It seems like an appropriate time of year to try a fragrance named for “Indian summer,” so I was pleased when a sample of Histoires d’Eaux Été Indien recently came my way. Histoires d’Eaux is an Italian niche perfume house with French names and a collection inspired by an imaginary “chansonnier” of the 1950s who tells his life story through his song lyrics. (I think I got that correct.) Été Indien was developed by perfumer Dominique Gindre and includes notes of elemi, bergamot, clary sage, geranium, patchouli, vanilla, tolu balsam, styrax and labdanum.

As you can guess by that list, Été Indien is an oriental composition with an amber theme…

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Agent Provocateur Fatale ~ fragrance review

Monica Cruz for Agent Provocateur Fatale

Lingerie brand Agent Provocateur recently launched Fatale, a new feminine fragrance with notes of Madagascar pink pepper, succulent mango nectar, exotic blackcurrant, velvet gardenia, royal orris absolute, Indonesian patchouli, sulty skin musk, vanilla orchid aphrodisiac, chocolate gourmand addiction and Spanish labdanum. (I left the original press release text intact, for your reading pleasure.) Fatale was developed by perfumer Jean-Marc Chaillan and seems to signal a change in direction for the Agent Provocateur fragrance collection.

I’m a fan of several older Agent Provocateur perfumes, including the original Agent Provocateur and (my favorite) the floral-amber Maîtresse. I also found 2012’s Pétale Noir very wearable and pleasant, not to mention its gorgeous packaging. The new packaging design for Fatale is the first difference you’ll notice…

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