Lazy weekend poll ~ three questions for 2014

Flower on green

Three questions:

1. What fragrance would you love to see in 2014, and from which house? Be as vague or specific as you like.

2. Let's say oud was over, which it almost certainly isn't. What would you like the big trend to be for 2014?

3. Do you have any perfume-related resolutions for 2014?

My answers...

1. The Hermessences could really use a jasmine entry, right?

2. Anything but oud, please, and pear can go away too while we're at it. Also done with rhubarb, pomegranate, pink pepper, and dewy rose flankers.

3. Prune my fragrance collection and start getting rid of unused fragrances.

Note: top image is DSCF2234 [cropped] by jamesskivington at flickr; some rights reserved.

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  1. yukiej says:

    1. AHHH, I would love to try a jasmine Hermessences perfume! That is a wonderful idea :)
    2. I don’t know! I am so new and behind on the trends that I can’t really say.
    3. Also hoping to get rid of unwanted samples and give away decants and samples of the perfumes I own too much of. I can’t really justify owning more than 15 or 30 mL of more than a handful of beloved perfumes :)

    • Robin says:

      That’s what I really wish for 2014: everything sold in 15 ml bottles. But I wish that every year, and it never comes true :-)

      • C.H. says:

        Maybe if we ask enough times? Likewise I’ve logged some 30 years of putting a pony at the top of my Christmas list, I figure that’s gotta add up :)

        • Aparatchick says:

          You and my sister, CH! Her list read “piano” and “pony” for many years. Never got either. I think that’s probably how my wish for 15 ml bottles will go. ;-)

    • missionista says:

      Yeah, 15 mL bottles would be wonderful, more of them!

    • jovejove says:

      Don’t many perfume houses already expel 7.5ml and 10ml purse sprays/rollerballs? It’s also become more common of a trend to produce 25ml, 30ml, 35ml and 40ml bottles for those that like travelling with their fragrance on hand at all times or just aren’t willing to spend the money on the large bottles.

      Find one signature scent and buy the largest bottles, then buy small bottles of everything else that you like to have a fling with here and there. The less you switch up your fragrance so often, the more of a memorable person you are, because you have a certain scent associated with you. Those that flip and flop from one scent to another, especially those that are “trendy”, that is why other scents become discontinued.

  2. 2rista says:

    1. I would love to have an up-front spicy perfume along the lines of Opium from YSL. And I don’t mean that poor substitute that is the re-formulation. They can give it another name as long as they recapture the essence.
    2.I have no idea about trends but would like to see the last of sweet, fruity florals.
    3, I am obviously not a good perfumista since I like to have FBs of my favourite perfumes; I don’t like to be afraid to spray generously. Although I don’t have a signature scent, there are some fragrances I like to keep in stock, so sometimes I delay buying something new in order to replace an old favourite. To help solve this problem, I’ve bought a perfume piggy-bank, into which I will put all my €1 coins. Perhaps one day I will be able to buy something by Neela Vermeire!

    • Robin says:

      A perfume piggy-bank is a great idea!

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Oh I am so with you on having FBs so I can be as liberal as I want in my application of a scent! I don’t (yet) have so many scents that I feel overwhelmed by having them.

      • C.H. says:

        Wearing favorites freely may be my 2014 perfume resolution, too. I’m somewhat compulsively inclined toward trying new things, but it’s adding up to a lot of days that I wear stuff I don’t necessarily -enjoy-. More days when I wear favorites, and less parsimony in their application!

  3. lucasai says:

    Happy New Year, Now Smell This community!

    1. I just said it in my ‘expectations for 2014’ post – I’d like to see what Atelier Cologne will prepare next. Also looking forward to a new Carner Barcelona perfume that is due to launch in first quarter.

    2. Iris? There were a couple more irises than expected in 2013 but there’s never enough iris for me ;)

    3. Just this one – a first bottle in 2014 shall be purchased for my birthday, which is in late February. So I’m not going to buy anything for these 2 months until I turn 24.

    SotD is Amouage Opus V. Happy Weekend!

    • Robin says:

      I’ll go for iris!

      • lucasai says:

        :) Go team IRIS!

        • Lise says:

          I’ll join team IRIS! Actually, I enjoy Iris so much I was thinking about calling my little daughter Iris. But my husband put his foot down…

          • lucasai says:

            Iris is such a lovely name

          • Lise says:

            It is! But we ended up calling her Helena. Satisfied with that :-)

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Have you decided on your birthday bottle, yet, or are you torn between a few choices?

      • lucasai says:

        Not thinking about it just yer Marjorie. If any of early 2014 releases grabs my attention (especially counting on Carner Barcelona) I might go for it. If not, then we’ll see ;)

    • Lys says:

      Iris please.

      • lucasai says:

        Thank you :D Team IRIS is growing bigger

        • 2rista says:

          Put me down for it too!

          • lucasai says:

            Sure, everyone is welcome

    • hajusuuri says:

      Iris! Iris! Iris!

      • lucasai says:

        Yes, yes, yes. I knew I can count on you

        • PekeFan says:

          I could do with sniffing a few new iris scents.

          • lucasai says:


    • solanace says:

      I’m on team iris too!

  4. ulastoonas says:

    1. I would really like a brand new Thierry Mugler fragrance that isn’t a flanker to their established canon.

    2. After Rihanna departed from the sugared fruity-floral celebrity perfume mold, I predict a surge of soft leathers into the mainstream market. Other than that, who knows?

    3. I have resolved to properly get to know one perfume each month in 2014. I try to select fragrances I could conceiveably like and wear based on my impressions, but they all have to be new to me. This month I’m basking in Rihanna’s Rogue, and love it!

    • libberation says:

      I really need to try R Rogue, there’s not much to choose from where I live other than celebuscents so anytime one does something different I get pretty excited!

      • It’s def worth trying, depending on where you live you could also find samples on eBay already :) Not the perfume of the year (or century), but refresingly grown-up and sober, and smells good. Btw I see from your own answers that you’re a goldsmith too! Nice! :) (I haven’t been working for the last few months but I have a bench that I really should sit at more often.)

        • libberation says:

          That’s awesome! I have an entirely uninspiring job as a bench jeweler and a similarly neglected bench at home :) here’s wishing you a creative new year!

    • eswift83 says:

      Ooh, I second another non-flanking Thierry Mugler!

  5. libberation says:

    Good morning NST!

    I’m still pretty new at all this but I’m gonna take a stab at answering.

    1. I don’t know about a particular house but I’d love to see more celebrities follow in the footsteps of people like Madonna and SJP and take a chance on something a little different.

    2. Cinnamon? For all I know there are plenty of scents out there that feature said spice but it’s the one that’s on my mind at the moment. I was making coffee the other day and when I shook some cinnamon into the grounds it wafted up and mixed with the perfume I’d just put on (Madonna truth or dare) and the combo smelled AMAZING.

    3. My perfume resolution is to keep exploring and find a way to work my love of perfume into my jewelry (I’m a goldsmith) to challenge myself creatively and so that I have another excuse to fall further down this fragrant rabbit hole ;)

    Happy new year!

    • Robin says:

      Best cinnamon I know, unfortunately not cheap: Serge Lutens Rousse. There’s also Comme des Garcons Series 5 Sherbet: Cinnamon. Demeter also makes 2 I haven’t tried: Cinnamon Bun and Cinnamon Bark.

      • libberation says:

        Thanks for the suggestions Robin! The will go on my (ever growing ;) ) sample list tonight!

      • TheSnailsPajamas says:

        That CdG Cinnamon isn’t worth it. A whole 2 seconds of fresh cinnamon followed by half an hour of generic white musk – that’s the killer, that crappy musk. And this coming from someone who repeat buys CdG Peppermint even though it lasts a whopping 10 seconds. I would like Cinnamon were it not for the drydown.

        • eswift83 says:

          That generic white musk is a deal breaker for me… can’t they find a different ingredient that will extend the longevity without boring me to death?

      • pyramus says:

        CDG Cinnamon Sherbet is not terrible, I thought, but very lightweight, no lasting power, not worthy of the name cinnamon.

        Demeter also has Cinnamon Toast, which is pleasant enough if not great.

        Comptoir Sud Pacifique used to have Vanille Cannelle, which is of course discontinued (I have a huge bottle of it). BUT. There is a Demeter, Egg Nog, which smells VERY VERY like Vanille Cannelle only actually better, in my opinion. If you want a rich, sweet, creamy cinnamon, then Egg Nog is just the thing. And so cheap!

        • missyl says:

          Thank you Pyramus and Robin for the cinnamon suggestions! The demeter Egg Nog sounds like a good try.
          My wishes for 2014 are 1. Spicy carnation,cinnamon or incense scents-
          2. Affordable And reasonably lasting ( no more eau- light and PLEASE make 15ml sizes!!
          3. Would LOVE someone to make a Bee Balm ( wild Bergamot- Monarda/ herb) based fragrance!!! They grow wild here and when you rub the red flowers they leave a delicious scent on your hands!

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Oh, I’m so curious to know more about mixing fragrance with goldsmithing! Do you mean to make functional jewelry (places to hold scent) or the more abstract–this fragrance moves me to create a certain shape/style/aesthetic in jewelry? I am a painter (strictly as a hobbiest), and I have been moved by music in that latter way, but it can be so difficult to translate one moving experience into another!

      • libberation says:

        A little of both Marjorie. I’m working on designing some perfume lockets but I also want to play with the flowers and plants perfume get it’s notes from and do something more abstracted along those lines. Like you said translating mood to art can be a big challenge but that’s what makes it such an interesting creative exercise! And I’d love to be able to paint even a little, sadly I am a strictly 3-D person :)

    • Merlin says:

      The original Comme de Garcons EDP also has a very strong cinnamon note – as does the softer version, White. I’v only tried them once but found the note a little too raw in these scents. Another very pricey cinnamon is Musc Ravageur – some people including me find the cinnamon much stronger than the musk, but that may be because we are all musk-anosmic!

      Much cheaper is Halston’s Z-14, a herbal leather chypre that has an opening which is all about cinnamon. It does become much dryer later on…

    • solanace says:

      I can’t help mentioning KL (Karl Lagerfeld), the original scent from the 80’s with a fan bottle, which is all about cinnamon and is great. It’s become a bit of a cult fragrance, but who knows if you won’t find it in a yard sale for 10 bucks?

      I’d love to see your work inspired by perfume. It sounds like an idea that can be endlessly unfolded, generating a cohesive and rich body of work. Have fun with it!

  6. Lys says:

    1. 2012 was such a big year for Guerlain and 2013 seems like a down year. I would like to see them pull a new full-bodied JPG composition “from the vault.”

    2. Like lucasai says, Iris. And some pricey buttery iris that doesn’t smell like that fake flat grey stuff the big manufacturers calls iris.

    3. Just give my collection more attention because there are some bottles I own that I don’t use enough.

    • lucasai says:

      Lys, how about something like discontinued Iris Ganache but not as expensive? Would be great

      • PekeFan says:

        That would be lovely, especially if they made it less sweet.

    • Rappleyea says:

      I could really get behind a “full-bodied JPG composition from the vault”! Great idea!!

  7. kindcrow says:

    2. I want carnation to become a trend, but IFRA will prevent that. I would settle for the aforementioned cinnamon trend.

    3. I don’t make annual resolutions, but I recently transferred most of my samples (I’m sure that there are few more lurking somewhere) into one of these bead organizers: photo at I haven’t decided how to organize them yet, but at least they are in one place! I got a second bead organizer for my rings.

    • TheSnailsPajamas says:

      Prada Oeillet parfum from their exclusive collection (which may not even be at boutiques anymore). It is a gorgeous, gorgeous creature. Like burgundy velvet.

      • kindcrow says:

        Thanks! I see that they have samples at STC.

      • hajusuuri says:

        The Prada boutique on 57th between Park & Madison (but could also be Madison & 5th) definitely carries the entire exclusive collection!

      • Robin says:

        I liked that Prada too. But assuming it’s been redone now to make it less clove-y.

  8. galbanumgal says:

    1) agree with suggestion above re Guerlain. In the midst of exploring this house, and many of the newer releases seem meh compared to their classics. Would love to see them release something truly intriguing, or a respectful tribute to a classic.
    2) amen to oud & pear going away. What’s frustrating is that fruity florals can actually be great–the category has been dumbed down. In light of that new Bruce Willis frag, how about a series of scents based on Pulp Fiction characters? That movie has reached classic status at this point!
    3)trade samples, and try to acquire fewer of them

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Ha! I just commented over on the BW scent page about a great notion my sweetie had last night after I mentioned the discussion there (forgive the direct copy/paste).

      Mr. Spicebomb suggested a new BW fragrance line–starting with “Jed’s.”

      Who’s perfume is this?
      Jed’s, baby.
      Who’s Jed?
      Jed’s dead, baby, Jed’s dead. . .

      With the obvious flanker name right there in the dialogue!

      • Marjorie Rose says:

        Except, I realize that that should say “Zed’s” rather than “Jed’s!” Whoops. More. coffee. needed.

      • galbanumgal says:

        hmm, thinking the Mrs Mia Wallace would have to be pretty edgy…perhaps something along the lines of Bandit? And the Lance (and the Vincent, for that matter) would need to convey substance-induced languor combined with extreme paranoia.

        • Marjorie Rose says:

          This is beginning to sound like a series only CDG can do justice!

    • PekeFan says:

      I’m liking the Ode a la Vanille Shalimar flankers, especially Mexique (which I didn’t think I’d like because of the chocolate note). However, I agree, everything else lately has been meh including L’Heure de Nuit. How about a 21st century tribute to Jicky?

      • galbanumgal says:

        Never experienced Jicky. I agree that the Ode a la Vanilles are good, and not at all insipid. Have yet to try the Parfum Initial and the light or legere versions. Am curious about the reformulated Vol de Nuit that’s on N-M’s site (never having tried the original).

        • Rappleyea says:

          The reformulated Vol de Nuit is fine, a nice fragrance. However, it doesn’t smell *anything* like the original. I have never ever smelled a reform so entirely different from the original. Spare yourself and don’t seek out the vintage; it will only cause you heartache.

  9. Marjorie Rose says:

    1. I would like to see unisex fragrances based on early Schwarzenegger action films. The Terminator. Commando. Total Recall. Kindergarten Cop.

    2. Anything but bacon. I’m really done with the bacon-inspired products.

    • juicejones says:

      So no Footloose Fraiche?

      • Marjorie Rose says:

        Ha! Not *that* Bacon!

    • Robin says:

      Love #1.

      • Marjorie Rose says:

        Hey, if Bruce Willis can make a fragrance (or two) at this point in his career, why not the Governator?!

        And Total Recall seems like a natural for a perfume name! :D

      • eswift83 says:

        I am so there.

    • nozknoz says:

      LOL! And then there are the Terminator flankers – T2: Judgement Day and Terminator Salvation. ;-)

      • Marjorie Rose says:


        Terminator must unquestionably be a leather scent, I think. T2: Judgement day, as a true flanker, is leather with gunsmoke, perhaps? Salvation will be totally forgettable.

  10. Marjorie Rose says:

    3. Ok. For a more serious answer, I don’t have any formal resolutions, but it would be nice if I didn’t spend *quite* so much money this year. I’m pushing towards 35 full bottles, with 28 or so in more-or-less regular use and rotation. You would think it would be enough to satisfy even a hedonist like me!

  11. juicejones says:

    I wish the perfume houses would resurrect their oldies once every year or five. If they did sample sets of the fallen I bet they would sell out in seconds.
    I predict more spices: saffron, cardamom, etc.
    Personally I wish more scented body oils were offered. I also think fragrance with regional ingredients and back stories combining history, romance, lore, fair trade, etc. will only grow in popularity.
    My perfume resolution is akin to my life resolution.
    Remain open minded. Remind myself that it is okay to change my mind. Be generous and pass on something that might be of more use to another.
    And thin the herd occasionally. Without naming names.

    • Robin says:

      And without charging a fortune! Yes, I’m looking at you, Jean Patou.

    • morgana says:


  12. Abyss says:

    1 – How about a resurrected Diorissimo in all its former glory? Too much to ask? Okay then, I think it’s time for Chanel to bring out something decent again. But I also like that jasmine Hermessence idea.

    2 – Oakmoss trend? Fewer releases trend? Better quality trend? Fewer trends trend? You’ll tell me I can’t have those either, won’t you? Fine, I could live with a leather trend.

    3 – No resolutions of any kind, no point :D

    • C.H. says:

      Ahhhh yes please for Diorissimo!

      • Robin says:

        Never going to happen under current regulations, unfortunately.

  13. Dawn says:

    1. Remember last year, Serge had the non export line at Barney’s New York for a little while? I would like to see that again but different.
    —While those bell jars were beautiful and held 2.5 ounces, the price tag was not. Scale down the size and price accordingly.
    —When the non export line becomes available again, please add luckyscent not just Barney’s. Barney’s made it so that one would have to hike all the way to New York just for a bottle.

    2. Celebrity perfumes just need to go away. There hasn’t been a phenominal celebrity scent since Deneuve. Truth or Dare was nice for what it was but it makes me think that Madonna’s career is really flagging.

    3. Right now, I’m trying to use up what I have. I started this about 3 months ago and it’s working, is to use up my smaller decants and full bottles. The decant pile is much smaller but the full bottle collection has grown. Can’t win for losing.

    • hajusuuri says:

      Hmmm, I’m pretty sure you can order the Bell Jars via phone and perhaps also online. I’m lucky to have easy access to Barneys but I have decided that they’ve put too much of a premium on it and will never buy the bell jars there ever again (unless they go on sale).

    • Robin says:

      I thought you could buy all of it directly from SL now?

      • foxbins says:

        I bought Sarrasins directly from the website. Free shipping, too, but for $310 I expected that.

        Notice that I did not post to the 4th quarter damage poll–so much damage to the pocketbook that I was embarassed to admit how much; but in my defense, I am only in the first six months of perfumistahood.

      • perthgirl says:

        Come all ye to Australia (anywhere but Sydney), and THEN lament the non-availability of perfume. :-( hmph!
        I read a comment the other day about Encre Noir being $10 more than Sycomore. Ha! I can get EN online for $50. The Chanel boutique? $350 thankyou very much. At least we have them though- big ones only no extraits. No Dior or Guerlain exclusives, no belljars, and no way to get them online. At least (most) niche lines are stocked at places that ship.. for a ($50) price!
        Ok, big sulk over for now ;-)

        • solanace says:

          Everything is relative. Sidney sounds like a perfume paradise compared to the Brazilian ABC region, a.k.a. Perfume Mordor. Chanel Exclusifs? Forget about it, I can’t even get Coco! May the perfume gods bless the kind decant people, I still can’t believe when a Lutens arrives at my door!

          • solanace says:

            Sorry, just realized you are not in Sidney!

  14. jepster says:

    Happy New Year my fragrant friends–you all smell delicious!
    1. I would love to see what Andy Tauer would do with a straight up jasmine….please, please, please.

    2. I like my fruit with cheese, not flowers…no more fruity florals!

    3. I plan to work my way through what I’ve got, swap and trade through 2014 to try some new things, and try not to spend a dime this year!!!!

    • C.H. says:

      Ooh yes I would take a Tauer jasmine!

      And smart about working through what’s on hand. I’m hoping to do some of that too.

  15. TheSnailsPajamas says:

    1. I’ve always wished someone would do a predominantly tamarind scent. It boggles my mind that the only two examples I know is an old Coty scent called Tamarind Musk (had the right tanginess, but it was too weak) and Voluspa did a Cocoa Tamarind, which again, had the tang right but was buried in other stuff. I always said if anyone could do it right, it would be Serge. Maybe I should just do it myself. I’ve always wanted that scent after seeing a National Geographic pictures years ago of a street vendor in the Middle East with a great silver decanter strapped to his back, pouring out a tamarind drink into little cups.

    2. Fresh herbs. Rosemary, thyme, sage, mint, anything – just stop the oud!

    3. Not really. Just keep up the editing of the perfume cupboard and sell unwanted stuff to buy new things, so as not to get mired in hoarding.

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Ooh. I love tamarinds! I’ve found “fresh” pods from time to time in specialty grocery stores. I also occasionally buy one of those Jarritos Tamarind sodas from the Mexican grocers. I can easily imagine a tart/tangy tamarind perfume–but I’d fear it becoming another watered-down fruity floral. Maybe Uncle Serge is the one to do it justice, as you say!

      • C.H. says:

        Gosh I would like this too, esp from Serge! Great idea.

    • kindcrow says:

      I like Jarritos Tamarind soda, and the tamarind sauce that they serve with samosas at Indian restaurants can be ambrosial. I have a sample of the Voluspa’s Cocoa Tamarind. It’s an interesting fragrance, but you are right — the tamarind gets hidden by the other stuff.

    • 50_Roses says:

      DSH has one called Nourouz that is based on tamarind. I’m not familiar enough with tamarind to say how true it is, but you might want to try it and see.

    • libberation says:

      Now that sounds intriguing! I could seriously eat my weight in that tamarind chutney kindcrow mentions above, love to smell something like it in perfume.

    • hajusuuri says:

      Tamarind! I love the fresh ones when I can get my hands on them. The last time I had fresh ones were on a Holland America cruise in 2012. There’s a restaurant called Tamarind and we asked for some and the waitstaff obliged :-)

      I will now probably be obsesses with looking for Jarritos Tamarind soda.

      • hajusuuri says:

        ummm, I should have said “obsessed” (stupid fingers…)

        • Marjorie Rose says:

          Look in the “ethnic” section of your grocery store–on the bottom shelf in glass bottles in my neck of the woods. Usually I find them with the other direct-from-Mexico products.

          • hajusuuri says:

            I just did but alas, none at my grocery. I’ll continue my search…

          • Marjorie Rose says:

            Oh, I’m sorry! I’ve seen them in a few neighborhood Mexican restaurants, too. Hopefully you’ll get to try one soon!

      • kindcrow says:

        I recently saw Jarritos soda at Target. Unfortunately, they are starting to put it in plastic bottles :-(

    • PekeFan says:

      YES! Tamarind would be wonderful.

      • missionista says:

        oooh, ooooh, yes I’d like to be on team Tamarind too, please.

    • solanace says:

      One my happiest childhood memories is the huge tamarind tree a neighbor had. It was huge, shady, easy to grimp, and the super tart fruit had that extreme factor somappealling to children, but I had never thought of a tamarind, perfume!

  16. D.D. says:

    Not exactly the question, but I predict that in the next year — or shortly thereafter — new discoveries in nano-technology will revolutionize the perfume industry. It will become possible to alter sillage, projection and dry-down to the exact desires of any individual wearer. …Applicable retroactively to your entire collection, Perfumistas.

    Coincidentally, at the same time most if not all perfume marketers and advertising copy-writers will be struck dumb and become spontaneously unable to use any sort of text input device.

    Perfume bloggers will all move their sites to YouTube where everyone will now dance their favorite scent. Not “dance” as in “this is how it makes me feel”, but actually DANCE the scent itself; …a Zen-ish union of fragrance and body; whether a slow soulful Ave Maria or a passionate Siguiriyas.

    The better department stores will put in small dance floors where perfume experimentation and selection will take place. …soon they’ll begin to sell white wine and tapas. …Wives, Husbands, lovers and SOs …even strangers?… will begin to meet there, mid-afternoon, for quiet trysts, hushed conversations or the joie de vivre of the crowd .

    There will be a resurgence of Tango dance, salsa will be forgotten in place of the real Mambo, strains of Fado will make listeners day-dream into their wine glass.

    My scent? In 1931, Garcia Lorca described it for me:

    “the rhythm of the birds and the natural music of the black poplar and the waves; it is simple in oldness and style. It is also a rare example of primitive song, the oldest of all Europe, where the ruins of history, the lyrical fragment eaten by the sand, appear live like the first morning of its life.”

    I don’t know Her name yet, but when I do, we’ll be dancing in the corner.

    • 2rista says:

      Love how all that sounds…I’d better start oriental dancing classes now, so as not to look a fool on You Tube.

      Those dance floors and social get togethers in department stores are a fabulous idea. Please let us know when you work out the logistics – and this must be a worldwide movement of course. Or are we going to be beamed up from our respective countries and transported to a kind of perfume paradise?

    • sweetgrass says:

      That sounds amazing. Makes me want to take a dance class. I had to look up Siguiriyas. Found some beautiful videos on YouTube. I’m with 2rista on the beaming-up idea. Teleportation would make travel so much easier.

    • Sajini says:

      YUM! I like the sound of all of that. And would add to it a totally private sensory deprivation chamber at every perfume counter with only scent input. No distracting SA’s or muzak to interfere with the moment.

      Also scent patches like birth control or nicoderm that you can wear for a long time. The patch would make your whole body exude different scents based on emotion, thought and hormones.

      My resolution: I just finished doing a “style statement” process and would like to use perfume to accentuate my signature style (which is already happening. Hubby got me a bottle of L’air de Rien for the holidays and I’ve been wearing it every day). I would also love to have a custom perfume made for me.

      • PekeFan says:

        Thanks for reminding me about L’air de Rien. That is a good one for revisiting.

      • Sajini says:

        Oh and as long as I’m in futuristic perfume lala land here, I’d like an app that will squirt you with perfume samples directly from your electronic device, thereby eliminating all costly blind buying mistakes.

    • PekeFan says:

      Wow, read like those old Peterman catalogs.

      • PekeFan says:

        “reads” – oops.

    • Merlin says:

      Can’t wait for those new nano-tech applications:)

  17. Anna Stromberg says:

    Three questions:

    1.- I love a good Sophia Grojsman-esque scent. So a big, peacy one, with vanilla and maybe almond, thorny rose, cinnamon, raspberry and incense. Preferably from Etat libre’d orange to make sure it’s interesting.

    2. – Tomato wine. And fresh raspberry leafs.

    3. – Same as almost every year: to scale down. Only keep what I really love.

    • nozknoz says:

      I love your ideas for 1 and 2!

    • Anna Stromberg says:

      Peach, not peace.

  18. nozknoz says:

    I’d like to see Guerlain do a version of Vetiver pour Elle without the white musk. The floral-vetiver combination is great, but the white musk needs to go.

    I’d also like to see warm, spicy orientals with no sweetness and above all NO FRUIT – and no resemblance to those wimpy perfumes we refer to as florientals.

    Early on, these were my favorites – Secret of Venus Zibeline, Toujours Moi, Youth Dew, Opium, Basile, and Coco. Warm and spicy. Frapin Caravelle Epice is close, but it’s boozy, of course. I’d like to see Duchaufour create a new one.

    I’d also like to see Duchaufour do something that smells like the African savannah – the dry vegetation and earth and the scent of the animal fur and musk.

    I’d also like to see L’Artisan Parfumeur repent the 120-ml size of their new Explosions d’Emotions collection. I’d buy a 50-ml of Skin on Skin but no way will I pay $280 for 120-ml. It’s the McMansion of perfume – shame!

    No perfume resolutions, but now that I am retired I need to stay away from ebay. I’m also planning to organize my collection now that I have the time.

    • C.H. says:

      HA, the McMansion of perfume. Too true.

    • PekeFan says:

      “I’d also like to see Duchaufour do something that smells like the African savannah – the dry vegetation and earth and the scent of the animal fur and musk.”

      I would SO buy that!

      • Sajini says:

        Oh yeah. I would go for that one too.

      • solanace says:

        Me too.

    • Rappleyea says:

      I *definitely* agree about the Vetiver Pour Elle! What a shame to ruin an otherwise great scent with dryer sheets in the drydown!

  19. hajusuuri says:

    1. I would like a Chanel Amber extrait.

    2. I’m all ouded out and the end of it couldn’t come soon enough. Like scent twin Lucas, I would like to see more outstanding iris-based perfumes.

    3. Perfume-related resolution….since I probably won’t stick to a budget anyway, I’ll skip that. I will try to be more selective in my purchases. I will also try to give away more samples and unloved perfumes.

    SOTD = Aftelier Perfumes Cuir Gardenia (still using my sample)

    • galbanumgal says:

      What’s your impression of Cuir Gardenia?

      • hajusuuri says:

        Cuir de Gardenia is headily addictive. The gardenia scent is bright and cuts through the somewhat animalic leather (and I am not a fan of animalic leather). I ordered 3 .25mL samples and they came in squat screw top bottles in oil form. I used my fingers and applied it to hair and oh my – while it stayed close to “skin”, I can smell it in all its glory — it is absolutely not overpowering. I read that it also contains jasmine which sometimes smells like mothballs to me but in this case, it lifted the gardenia.

        Needless to say, I immediately ordered the 2 mL mini and I am waiting for it to arrive :-)

        • galbanumgal says:

          must sample…could use an addictive gardenia!

    • lucasai says:

      An amber exclusive from Chanel would be awesome (or is Chanel Amber a real existing fume?)

      And yes, more iris perfumes are always welcome. If not I will create some for the Prix Eau Faux

      • hajusuuri says:

        Hmmm, I don’t believe there is a Chanel Amber…yet…

        • Merlin says:

          Perhaps Coromandel would be the closest?

          • hajusuuri says:

            Coromandel without patchouli may be close :-)

      • nozknoz says:

        There’s nothing called amber. Maybe Coco is sort of an amber. I agree with you that it would be interesting to see them do an explicit amber.

  20. sweetgrass says:

    1. Not sure on this one.

    2. A green trend might be nice. Galbanum, tomato leaf, grassy notes.. not any one type of green.

    3. I have a few things I want to try, but mostly right now I’m focusing on using what I already have and finally trying the samples I hadn’t gotten around to yet. We’ll see how long that lasts before the next sampling frenzy comes on.

    • Robin says:

      I’ll vote for more green!

      • Rappleyea says:

        Seconding this – green is good!

        • AnnE says:

          Okay, Team Green here!

  21. PekeFan says:

    1. I would love to see a new Chanel Exclusif. Yes, 1932 was released this past year, but I’m not crazy about it. A jasmine Hermessence would be lovely, especially in the transparent JCE style.
    2. I’m wearing Chanel Jersey today and currently sit in an enveloping fog of airy lavender – so relaxing. More lavender and other herbal notes, less fruit and sugar please!
    3. I should also prune/give away more of my unused fragrances, although I’ve started using some of them as room sprays. No real perfume related (or other) resolutions though.

    • Robin says:

      Hey, a jasmine from Chanel would be nice too.

  22. mough says:

    1) I would love to see Emeraude brought back to its original formulation and released to public, not just to private parties for the Brass. To hell with IFRA restrictions.

    2) I can’t help it–I have a need to voice a jones for a Super Perfume Power: I want to telepathically know what anyone, at any time, is wearing. Whether it’s a passing stranger, a movie star, or the woman in the check out aisle. I DIE to know what people wear, or don’t. Or wore 200 years ago.

    3) I could live a long life and never smell an oud fragrance again. We were bitching about it in 2010, and it’s still HERE!

    4.) I want to be slightly more academic this year–to create my own Perfume 101 class for myself–being able to know the history of perfumes, the ones which defined and influenced others, how culture played a role, to be really familiar with major houses, noses and be able to list 10 or perfumes from each of the families/noses/houses. I just want to KNOW more. Have a mental time line.

    • Robin says:

      Really hope oud at least tapers off this year.

    • annemarie says:

      On number 4, have a look at Barbara Herman’s book, published last year, ‘Scent and subversion: decoding a century of provocative perfume’ (that will give you the timeline you need). And Bois de Jasmin has a great series, with a current post up on the site at the moment, called ‘Fragrances that influenced perfume history: 100 great perfumes’.

      • mough says:

        Have the book! Got it for Xmas! And B de J’s series, also, I just discovered. Both are what fired me up to learn. Thanks for the suggestions–at least I’m on the right track. I was only able to access a couple of Victoria’s series, but I assume more to be available…

  23. 50_Roses says:

    1. My perfume wish is perhaps a little less ambitious than some; I would like for Lush to make the scent of their Lord of Misrule bath bomb (black patchouli, black pepper, and vanilla) into a perfume. This is a seriously terrific smelling bath bomb, and it makes the bathroom smell fantastic for hours and hours afterward. Despite the vanilla, it is not at all sweet, just rich, spicy, and wonderful, and not like anything else in their range that I can know of. I know that lots of things that are nice in bath products don’t necessarily translate well into perfume form, but I think this one would.

    2. How about a trend of making contemporary scents that are reminiscent of vintage frags? I realize that true vintage scents contained ingredients that are no longer available or are restricted, but DSH, for one, has scents that have that vintage vibe yet are still presumably compliant with current ingredient regulations, so it can be done.

    3. To spend more time appreciating what I already have, and to actually try some of the massive number of samples I have accumulated rather than buying dozens more.

    • hajusuuri says:

      Wowzer…the Lord of Misrule perfume sounds terrific!

    • annemarie says:

      On number 3, yes, DSH but also Andy Tauer and Sonoma Scent Studio also have a lot of vintage inspired fragrances. Paticia de Nicolai works within a classical tradition. I agree with you – long may this trend continue!

    • Dixie says:

      I haven’t smelled Lord of Misrule. Sounds awesome!

      • 50_Roses says:

        I LOVE the scent of Lord of Misrule and wish it were available in another format–if not a perfume, then at least a shower gel or a soap. The cost per use for their bath bombs is prohibitive for daily use, but shower gel is much more economical. The ingredients list includes actual black pepper and patchouli oils and real vanilla absolute, not the synthetic stuff (although there is also some unspecified “fragrance” way on down the list). I find most synthetic “vanilla” scents to be quite off-putting, but I love the smell of the real thing.

        • Rappleyea says:

          You’ve inspired me to try to recreate this with essential oils! I love a good patch scent!

  24. sophiew says:

    Hello, NST, it’s been a while! Graduate school has taken the best of me…

    1. I don’t have anything in mind here, there are still too many perfumes that exist and that I haven’t tried yet.

    2. More spices, and osmanthus should be used more in perfumery.

    3. Fewer impulse purchases! I was too afraid to confess to Donatella this year…

  25. Aparatchick says:

    1. I’d be really happy if Lush would release Flying Fox as a perfume. Failing that, I’m always happy when any house releases a scent that surprises me.

    2. I’d like the next trend to be for houses to stop releasing 3 (or 5 or 8) scents at a time. Really, just take your time and release one beautiful, well- made perfume at a time.

    3. Organize my collection of decants so that I can actually find what I’m looking for.

    • Robin says:

      I said the same recently, and someone pointed out that Lust is probably meant as just that. Lust is too sweet for me though.

    • annemarie says:

      Agree on Flying Fox. Love it.

  26. Sajini says:

    1. I’d like there to be a massive order screw up of Amouage perfumes so that they start showing up at TJ Maxx for under twenty bucks. I know that fruit isn’t very popular here, but I would really love Guerlain to come out with a pineapple/marigold/patchouli. I guess I’m really loving the pineapple note in vintage Armani and that’s why.

    2. So sick of perfumes that smell like shampoo and generic beauty products. I hope the big trend for 2014 is to raise the bar for mass market perfumes so they have a bit more character.

    3. Resolution for 2014: Use and enjoy my most pricy, hoard-worthy perfume. Really appreciate and get to know what I already have. Share perfume more with friends and family. Sell a few things to make room for the stuff I really love.

    • Robin says:

      I would really like a creamy pineapple…I layered Ananas Fizz over Bronze Goddess and that was nice.

      • nozknoz says:

        Thanks – I need to try this, or something similar. I have Ananas Fizz mostly gathering dust.

    • Dixie says:

      LOL! Love the order screwup!

    • Rappleyea says:

      Another good pineapple is Patou’s Colony. More of a chypre though than a creamy one.

  27. Lucy says:

    1. I would like to see Guerlain embrace their roots. Something new with a classic feel and obvious Guerlinade (a la Insolence) would be fine, but what I really want is a reissue of original formulas. And I want them in their own bottles, not part of the overpriced les Pariesiennes line.

    2. Not really a trend in production, but I would be pleased if every woman in America went to their local department store or Sephora and told the staff they are tired of pink, fruity florals. Then I’d like them to state that they want to smell as elegant as their grandmothers did and ask for Private Collection, Youth Dew, Opium, No. 22, Diorissimo, Rive Gauche, Fracas, or even Poison. Anyone shown Opium or Diorissimo should promptly wrinkle their nose and loudly exclaim “This is awful. It’s nothing like what I smelled 40 years ago.” Eventually the message has to get back to the manufacturers, right?

    A real trend that has already started but I would like to see more of in 2014 is body powder. That new Opium is much less tragic when applied with a puff.

    3. Just to love what I buy.

    • annemarie says:

      ‘ … smell as elegant as their grandmothers … ‘. Love that line.

      Sadly, perfume is not marketed to mature women. Anyone who can remember what perfume smelled like 40 years ago is 40 years over the target market.

      • mough says:

        Ouch! But probably true…

        • Rappleyea says:

          She’s a dead shot, isn’t she?!? ;-)

      • SallyM says:

        Unfortunately, that’s a truism. As someone who is approaching 60 and can vividly remember things like the truly amazing Opium launch, Mary Quant makeup and gogo boots :-) I am often indignant that I no longer seem to be part of THE demographic that matters. (Same issue with TV shows etc). The irony to me though, is that the type of perfume marketed to women when I *was* a young woman, was of a much higher quality (and in better bottles as another poster said) for a lot less $$ than that marketed to young women now. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not anti-niche frags per se, I just think that, in large part due to the recent regulations, they’re just “thinner” as already mentioned. Another small irritation of mine is when I hear people refer to said classics as “old lady perfume” – I often retort that I’m sure Marilyn Monroe, Kathrine Hepburn et al didn’t smell like old ladies (whatever that really means) and if by wearing No 5 and Vol de Nuit makes me smell like them, then more power to all of us!

        • annemarie says:

          The other irony is that women in their 50s and 60s, at the peak of their careers and with kids off their hands, have more money to spend. They also tend to be loyal to a brand. It just seems so stupid not to pay more attention to this market.

          • Marjorie Rose says:

            Not sure which of you may be in the States, but some years back there was a rather fabulous and funny TV show called Boston Legal. Anyone a fan? They were on air for maybe 5 years–mostly using older actors who were geniuses–Candice Bergen, John Larroquette, William Shatner, Betty White.

            Anyway, the show was hilariously self-referential, and when it looked like they were in their last season and had no chance of being renewed, the “case” that they fought (all the way to the Supreme Court, I think?), was on behalf of an older woman who didn’t have enough quality television to watch! She felt that the service did not do enough for her population–which as annemarie points out has more money and more time and should therefore be prime targets! It was pretty great.

          • Rappleyea says:

            Saw that Boston Legal – it was hilarious!

          • solanace says:

            I fondly remember Boston Legal. It was great! Candice Bergen was genius, and my mom (who loved the show too) is still following the big necklace trend!

    • SallyM says:

      I *love* that idea of demanding a perfume that makes us smell as classy as our grandmothers! I’m such a vintage ho’ – I yearn for the classics to come back and begone with these “thin” perfumes that I smell so many of these days. I was in Macey’s before Christmas and asked the SA (who looked like she was about 12) where the Guerlain counter was. She looked at me blankly and shook her head. Even when I said “Shalimar?” – nothing. She fetched over another (older by about 5 years) SA who also had no idea who Guerlain was but redeemed herself somewhat when I mentioned Shalimar. Of course, I didn’t even *want* Shalimar, I was just using it as a reference point, but what did their Guerlain “counter” consist of? About 5 bottles of Shalimar Initial…

    • nozknoz says:

      I read on Grain de Musc that Guerlain has reformulated their extraits of Mitsouko and Chamade to restore their original greatness. Denyse actually said there was no longer any need to horde vintage! Of course, I am not giving up my vintage horde any time soon, but it sounded like very good news news.

      • Jillie says:

        Yay! That news made me happy too! Can’t wait to try them.

      • Rappleyea says:

        Chamade I can understand, but how can they restore the original amount of oakmoss to Mitsouko with the IFRA regs?

      • AnnE says:

        Yah right. More likely that their marketing department has re formulated their campaign.

    • Celestia says:

      I agree, Lucy. Customers hate flankers, especially when the names get longer and it becomes less easy to replenish the exact right one. Who can remember “l’Esprit de L’eau de Parfum Originale Sport Extreme Amber Oudh? I, too, long for the original bottles to be used for re-issues of classics. I don’t like old bottles being reused for a completely new juice. We know that hiring an artist to sculpt a new bottle is expensive! The issue of flankers, several times a year, is a marketing ploy as “newness” is what apparently sells. As for Guerlain, please keep Guerlinade and stop with the white musk.

  28. Merlin says:

    1. I want a perfume that smells exactly like what I smell when I stick my nose into a crimson red rose growing in a garden (i.e. not scent-less as so many florist flowers are). I want it to be a precise photograph. I don’t want any other notes, and I don’t want so-called impressions of stem, soil or roots. An exact simulacrum of a real red rose scent would make me happy forever. Ok, for a while, lol!

    I couldn’t care less who makes it, or how natural vrs synthetic the ingredients are – but I would prefer it to be made by a person or company that does NO animal testing.

    2. I’m not really bothered by trends since I’m not that drawn to particular notes – its always the overall effect which makes it or breaks it for me.

    3. I would like to stop stressing over what I should buy and what I shouldn’t – and also to gain a deeper appreciation of the scents I already own.

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Oh yes, please sign me up for that rose scent, too, ok? I remember asking here for such a thing, and the best bet (maybe recommended by 50 Roses?) was some discontinued, hard to find, expensive, exclusive, etc. I want to say maybe it was Shiseido rose? I dunno, I remember deciding it was better that I didn’t make a project of it. . . much better if something new could be put into production and then be affordable and available!

      • FearsMice says:

        Ah, Shiseido’s White Rose, probably. I sniffed some once and it was truly gorgeous stuff. Strangely enough, it really did smell like a -white- rose; it reminded me of an old-fashioned white rose that my grandmother grew. I think it’s only sold in Japan. What a fool I was not to buy Shiseido parfums when I lived there!

        • Marjorie Rose says:

          Yes, I think that’s it! Any knowledge about ordering samples or other fragrance products from Japan? :)

          • 50_Roses says:

            If it was me, then it would have been White Rose. It really it the truest, most gorgeous rose scent I have ever smelled. It is not discontinued (as far as I know), but is only sold in Japan. I have a partial bottle that I got through TPC a few years ago. It was by far the highest price per ml I have ever paid for a perfume, but I do not regret it for a moment.

          • nozknoz says:

            It looks like samples and decants may be available via The Posh Peasant.

      • Merlin says:

        MR, yes, I remember White Rose being recommended too – perhaps it was also by 50 Roses:)

        I guess I should also include in the criteria that the price should be under $100- and one should not need to fly to Japan to get it!

        – After all, I still think the closest is Tea Rose which is pretty easy to get and about $25 for 100ml!

        • Marjorie Rose says:

          Yes, I like Tea Rose, too. It’s almost embarrassingly brash and I feel like my hair isn’t big enough for it, but it *does* smell like a rose!

          • Merlin says:

            I actually use it more often as a linen spray than a perfume. (I love a spray on my pillow before sleep) If I wear it as a perfume I usually layer it with something woody or an amber that undercuts its shrillness.

            It can give me the vibe of an overly strident woman, all got up in her best for a religious service – lol!

            So – its not my perfect rose. Also, I think it smells more like a pink rose than a deep red one. But given that – as you say – it does actually smell like a rose. I don’t know what it is – but from Malle to Sonoma Scent Studio to Stella – nothing really smells like the flower of a real rose.

            Perhaps Jo Malone’s Red Rose comes close – it is lovely – but its not exquisite, and a real rose is.

  29. missionista says:

    I think the oud trend could segue nicely into a smoke trend. I love the smoky scents, so bring ’em on!

  30. Ericgmd says:

    1- I would love to see a new fragrance by House of Shiseido in the spirit of Feminite’ du Bois or Nombre Noir. Even their Relaxing Fragrance from the 90s in the beautiful green frosted bottle was innovative and the packaging was superb. Something non-commercial from Shiseido that does not get swept over to the Serge Lutens over-hyped exclusive label would be welcome.

    2- I really liked Bottega Veneta Pour Homme for its piney soft leather that stays discreet, clean and never overpowering. Could a new trend that brings back the masculines of the 70s & 80s without the harsh leather, lavender and castoreum become viable and make the younger mainstream crowd forget the fresh aquatics? One can only hope. Hermes is bringing (back) Bel Ami-Vetiver. That’s a wonderful concept because Bel Ami was an amazing masculine but it is difficult for today’s taste, yet Vetiver is still timeless. I am already noticing a trend here…

    3- My resolution for 2014 as I mentioned to Angela on New Year’s Day is to stop longing for vintage and discontinued scents and to approach the contemporary non-niche ones with an open mind. I’m even willing to give Coco-Mademoiselle a try now! OK may be not. :)

    • Robin says:

      I don’t even know what Shiseido is up to these days — they distribute so little here other than Zen.

  31. AnnieA says:

    The trend I would dearly like to see is an “Up yours, IFRA!” movement. What, precisely, are IFRA’s powers? Would non-compliant perfumers need to stick skulls on top of their outer wrappings? That would be cool.

    • Marjorie Rose says:


    • solanace says:

      I was thinking something along these lines. Enough is enough. After the tattoo artists got organized and had a huge victory in France, perfumers should stick to their guts and face IFRA, Star Wars-style!

    • Jillie says:

      Absolutely! IFRA isn’t a government organization with legislative powers, but a self-appointed group of manufacturers of synthetic fragrances/flavourings. One suspects that there could possibly be an ulterior motive for wanting natural ingredients out of the way? In the meantime, perfumers are fearful of continuing to use anything damned by IFRA just in case of possible litigation. It’s time to stop the madness!

  32. morgana says:

    I don’t really want more of anything since I am spending way too much on perfumes and I want to be surprised, but I hope that Giacobetti’s IUNX and Honore des Pres as well as Les Nez do well in 2014 since their fragrances are AMAZING.

    • Robin says:

      I wish IUNX had a distributor.

      • morgana says:

        Me too! And I feel baffled about the strategy. But I have to admit that when my husband brought IUNX from Paris, it felt really very special! Plus, I never saw anything so beautiful in terms of perfume packaging (in fact, the strength of the fragrances makes total sense in reference to those giga-bottles).

  33. Omega says:

    Ditto to Robin’s answers!! Exactly!

    Today is my birthday..enjoying cake and time with my husband, so glad it falls on a Saturday this year:).

    • FearsMice says:

      Happy Birthday, Omega!

    • Robin says:

      Oh, happy birthday.

    • morgana says:

      Happy birthday, Omega! What fragrance are you wearing to celebrate?

      • Omega says:

        I’ve been testing a whole bunch of oakmoss scents a mix of those!

        • Merlin says:

          We want NAMES! lol.

          Happy Bday:) Any fragrant presents?

    • juicejones says:

      Birthday wishes!

  34. thegoddessrena says:

    I’d like to see a carnations trend, or failing that, lots of good gardenias.

    My resolution is to try and sample on skin all the samples I own, before I acquire more, and to not pay for samples until I have done so.

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Oh, I so need to work my way through my samples! And better yet, actually take notes on them so that I have record of them before I go off like a hyperactive hummingbird to sniff at another bloom!

  35. 1. Oh, I would really love to see a smooth, elegant and well-rounded osmanthus fragrance. A bit less abstract than Osmanthe Yunnan – and with a bit more staying power!

    2. I wish the combination of vetiver and grapefruit was used more often in feminine fragrances. But I’m guessing coconut (or other exotic fruits) could be the next trend with LL Elle L’aime leading it, at least for the mainstream brands. Too tired of the oud and roses!

    3. Resolution-wise my hope is to discover my next signature fragrance. I’ve been pretty much uninspired by the launches lately…

    • nozknoz says:

      AmbrosiaGal, I like our idea of a vetiver and grapefruit feminine!

      Have you tried The Different Company Osmanthus and Parfums d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite? (Admittedly, I need to spray the former on clothing to make it last.) I agree, more osmanthus perfumes would be welcome.

      • Robin says:

        Yes, the PdE was the first thing that came to mind. I love Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus too, but it’s not really smooth & elegant.

  36. scentfromabove says:

    1. I would like to see something completely different from Tom Ford and / or Jo Malone. I think both brands are so unique and always pushing the envelope, but now I would like for them to take it one step further.
    2. I am intrigued with peony at the present time. I would like to see more fragrances with this particular note in it.
    3. My fragrance resolution for 2014 is to step out of my comfort zone and try fragrances that I normally would not try. I want to expand my appreciation for different fragrances.

    • Robin says:

      Peony still seems very popular…I think you will get your wish!

  37. Dixie says:

    1. I’m always on the prowl for a gorgeous patchouli scent or amber. Love Mazzolari Patch but not the price tag.
    2. Would love to see Iris be a big trend. It just smells so go on me.
    3.Desperately trying to pare down my hundreds of decants.

    • Robin says:

      Yeah, I have too many decants too. Most of them are probably turned & need to be tossed.

  38. robinw47 says:

    Robin, you mentioned that you like pineapple. Have you ever smelled the vintage Caron scent, Acaciosa? It’s a beautiful combination of orange blossoms, pineapple, rose and jasmine. I love almost all of Caron’s original fragrances… the new ones, not so much.

    • Robin says:

      Yes, although it’s been long enough that i barely remember it. My favorite of the Caron urn scents was always Alpona.

  39. maggiecat says:

    I can’t improve on what Robin said – a jasmine from Hermes, no ore oud, etc., and I need to find good homes for many of my bottles, decants, and samples so I have more room for what I truly love (and, to be honest, just plain More Room. Small house and all that.)

    • Robin says:

      My perfume cabinet is too full too, and yes, small house here!

  40. james1051 says:

    They can keep cranking out oud fragrances as far as I am concerned.
    Helps me zero in and eliminate. Anything “oud” I pretty much ignore.

  41. robinw47 says:

    Robin, my favorite of the Caron urn scents is French Can Can. It’s one of my favorite scents to wear in the winter :) I also love Tabac Blond and Poivre.

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      I sampled Poivre at Our Lady last month–beautiful, spicy stuff!

    • Robin says:

      Sorry I cannot remember the French Can Can. Poivre & Tabac Blond are both brilliant, or were…have not smelled the latest versions.

      • Rappleyea says:

        French Can Can would not be you, Robin!

  42. SallyM says:

    I too would like to see a Guerlain that returns to the depth of classics like Vol de Nuit, L’Heure Bleue or Jicky. Also begone with the new Opium and bring back the old Opium – I need a comparable Oriental powerhouse! I like the idea of a gutsy Chanel amber.

    I’m firmly on the enough-oud-already bandwagon. Out with the Carmen Miranda fruit bowls, cupcakes and dryer sheet white musks. In with leathers, irises and incense/smoke.

    I have resolved to wear more of my vintages and enjoy them as opposed to sniffing squillions of niche samples and bitchin’ about ’em not smelling like my vintages :-)

    • Robin says:

      I will vote for all of that!

    • Rappleyea says:

      And I’m going to take your resolution for my own! Good one!

  43. nozknoz says:

    By the way, I don’t actually want oud to disappear. I think it has a role as an interesting note that replaces some of the banned ingredients. It just doesn’t need to be the centerpiece anymore.

    • Merlin says:

      Nozknoz – I know I’m totally outnumbered – but I still don’t have my perfect rose-our combo, so I’m happy to continue sniffing:)

      That being said – given what we get in South Africa, I’v probably smelled less than 15 purported Rose-Oud mixes, so I can sympathize with those who are overwhelmed by their current prevalence.

      • nozknoz says:

        Merlin, I agree – everyone must have the rose oud of his/her dreams! By Kilian Rose Oud by Calice Becker is mine, together with samples of Amouage Homage Attar. If I didn’t already have these, I might need Atelier Rose Anonyme or the one from the Guerlain series for the Arab market – I forget the name. If any of those are among the ones you haven’t tried, I recommend them.

        • Merlin says:

          I think I know which Guerlain range you are thinking of – unfortunately we did not get that one here – though we have other ranges in the exclusive Guerlain set. The Amouages I have tried have not really been me – so I’m not holding thumbs for Homage. They all seem plush but constrained at the same time. I may grow into them one day – wallet, be warned:)

          I know its generally frowned upon but I think Jo Malone’s Rose Oud is quite nice, but still, I don’t love it. The same goes for Rose Anonyme, of which I have a small decant. Montales Oud Queen of Roses did seem very nice – but I need to try it a few more times. I’m holding out for their Black Oud, but I don’t know when the shop will ever get a tester in…

          A very nice one is Armani Prive’s Rose d’Arabie – but I haven’t figured out how much I would have to love it to pay Armani Prive prices, lol!

          The Estee Lauder Mystic Wood and Cleef van Arpel are equally bad. But, Aramis Calligraphy is not bad; and in fact I am quite in love with Calligraphy Rose – though I don’t think it has oud. To me it smells like very high quality rose petal turkish delight.

          I may change my mind about needing (lol) a rose-our at all and settle for this one, if I am still in love in a month or so!

          • Merlin says:

            From my remarks about Armani Prive you could infer that I am reluctant to pay By Killian prices as well! Because of that I’m not in a great rush to get my hands on a sample. Its also not sold here, so if I adored it I would need to wait for someone to go traveling…

          • nozknoz says:

            I was referring to the 2012 Guerlain Les Déserts D’Orient series of three perfumes inspired by raw materials of the Middle East developed by Thierry Wasser. Rose Nacrée du Désert is described as a woody floral with rose, oud wood and saffron. I think it has received positive reviews and comments. I had a sample that I thought was nice but not better than the BK that I already have.

        • Merlin says:

          Yes, Rose Nacree is the one I thought of – it gets so many mentions!

      • hajusuuri says:

        Merlin, have you tried the Perris Monte Carlo Rose de Taif? It doesn’t have oud listed as an ingredient but I swear it smelt like there was. It’s not for me but perhaps you may like it?

        • Merlin says:

          No, unfortunately have not even heard of that brand!

    • Robin says:

      Oh, absolutely! No desire to see oud disappear. Just fewer fragrances with Oud in the name.

      • Merlin says:

        Robin, when I search Oud on the NST site, there is just so many recent variations of it that you, and the NST team, has reviewed that I totally understand the oud-irritation and fatigue. But, as a layperson with limited access I don’t yet, myself, feel choked by the agar wood theme!

        • johanob says:

          I think Merlin and I are wayyyy behind with Oud perfumes in South Africa,plus we don’t have that much variety locally available,mostly with the Niche brands.

          • Merlin says:

            Fancy seeing you here! Hello, fellow citizen:)

          • Merlin says:

            And I am not wayyy behind. At worst I am wayy behind. Three ys just makes me sound provincial, lol!

          • johanob says:

            Yes Merlin “Citygirl”!As you know,currently I AM provincial…or more like RURAL…lol.So I’m far behind you on sniff-trips!

          • Merlin says:

            Not sure Pretoria counts as rural exactly, but ok, lol!

        • Robin says:

          You are lucky!

  44. kaos.geo says:

    1. What fragrance would you love to see… an Hermessence citrus based, tuberose based or cedar based.

    2. Oud being over (I doubt it) I wish the next trend would be chypres… green chypres… lots! :-)

    3. Do you have any perfume-related resolutions for 2014? Yes… trying to hunt for miniature coffrets… I see many and I let them pass by… and then when I want to get them they are no longer available…examples: that lancome coffret with cuir, etc… the minis of kiehls latest 4 colognes and ditto for the minis of the first 4 of l’ occitane colognes…

    • Robin says:

      Oh, a tuberose Hermessence, I want that too!

  45. alina says:

    1. Well, honestly i wish for IFRA to go to hell (pardon my french), so everyone would be happy:) But since it isn’t going to happen,
    I would like something new from Dior! And I don’t mean any oud-eau-legere-version of J’adore, nothing that would contain names J’adore, Addict, Poison or Miss Dior on it. Something very-very new! I know It wouldn’t be possible for probably another 7 years, but is it too much to ask to stop reformulating and relaunching same things once in a 6 month? Please?..
    2. I think the trend of “darkening” the existing perfumes will continue and they probably will launch a whole lot of new ambery/spicy/leathery/smokey fragrances, since people are really getting tired of fruity lemonades. Which is a good thing, I suppose as long as they will do it with quality and not just another “seductive amber version of Escada” (I have nothing against Escada, don’t get me wrong) ;)
    3. I would like to get to know more (all of them??) Serge Lutens fragrances, since they don’t sell it in my country, so it would be my interesting quest for this year.)

    • Marjorie Rose says:

      Oh, good call on the “darkening” of scents! I think that is a trend that hasn’t reached its peak, yet. If only they were *actually* darker or more intense!

  46. solanace says:

    I just want perfumers to get together, walk the Champs Elisées and face IFRA. I’m with AnnieA above, a little skull on the label, maybe along with a short educative text, would be just cute!

    • Robin says:

      It’s all too circular. They all work for the F&F companies, and IFRA basicallly *is* the F&F companies. So not likely.

      • solanace says:

        I’m totally a dreamer, but I think real perfumers should just leave IFRA and create an alternative association. And since the French are so fond of manifesting their views on the street, I’ll stick with the image of ‘La marche des parfumeurs’ down the Champs Elisées because it makes me smile, even if agree with you that it is not at all a likely event to happen. :)

  47. Dilana says:

    I do not my the oud thing. I suspect oud is being used to give depth since oakmosss is now banned and eeal sandlewood is limited.
    Although out of order, I wish those. who design scents to be marketed by young pop stars would increase their juice budget and make imaginitive good scents.

    • Robin says:


    • Dilana says:

      MY / MIND
      Sorry. I am not illiterate just horrible at phone-typing.

  48. Mille Fleurs says:

    1. Fragrance I would love to see: so many

    a) Guerlain: Release from the vault and make readily available the following: 1. Candide Effluve, 2. Secrets de Sophie, 3. Plus Que Jamais (in Parisienne bottles with different colored bows, if you please.

    b) A new L’art et la Matiere focusing on almond

    c) From Annick Goutal a new soliflore, Heliotrope, in a bottle with a pastel ribbon, of course

    2. Niche Trend: Hmm, I agree with Iris or galbanum Mainstream: IFRA, quit worrying about oakmoss and scrutinize and set higher standards for the mainstream (dept. stores, BBW, and Victoria’s Secret) irritants (immeasurably greater irritants in my book)

    3. No plans to cut back, but hopes to get more organized so I can share what didn’t work for me, and make my collection all organized and pretty again :-)

  49. ravjan says:

    Hello NST! And a Happy New Year to all of you!
    Here in PL we’re having an extremely lazy weekend with a bonus Monday off tomorrow ;)

    1. I’d be more than happy if some of my beloved fragrances from the past be resurrected, notably Casual Friday from Escada, YSL’s Jazz Prestige and more recently discontnued Cacharel’s Nemo and Trussardi’s Inside for Men. As for new fragrances I’d fancy seeing Chanel put the ‘pour homme’ thing on some of its hit female fragrances like No5 or Chance. Well, maybe except Coco Mademoiselle ;)

    2. I can never get enough of leathery notes so that could be a trend for me. Plus I do enjoy flowers in men’s fragrances so bring it on!

    3. Perhaps to give some scents a second chance. I had ruled out many scents prematurely … or tried them in wrong circumstances. Like for example Kenzo Air which I initially looked down on and recently came to appreciate.

    • Mille Fleurs says:


      Yay for a bonus Monday off! Our kids still have their fingers crossed…bitter cold and snow predicted tonight in Nashville!

      • ravjan says:

        No snow here at all this winter. Jan 6th is sort of new bank holiday in this country hence the long weekend. I still quite haven’t got used to it. Anyway, stay warm and take care out there :)

  50. austenfan says:

    1.) I would love Clinique to make Wrappings available year round in Europe.

    2.) I honestly don’t mind oud. As I don’t get to smell that many new fragrances most of them never make it to my nose anyway.
    A new trend I would love is the release of lots of different chypres and aldehydic florals.

    3.) Buy more selectively and be less tempted by sales!

    • juicejones says:

      Amen to new chypres and aldehydic florals!

  51. johanob says:

    1)I would love to see the local South African brand Rose en Bos(roses and vine) go global,and also release something new & exciting(An Iris-something will do…)
    2)Good quality,natural raw earthy IRIS!
    3)No more blind buys…sorry Amouage,the shop that sell it here has NO TESTERS!!

    • Merlin says:

      Johanob, I would love to see more quality South African perfume brands, period.

      But yes, Rose en Bos deserves a bigger audience. My own favorite from her is Imithi, the first patchouli I have ever enjoyed. No doubt due to its highly vanillic dry down!

      • johanob says:

        Agree!Imithi is beautiful,and my current favorite too.Let me know if/when you visit 44 Stanley…lol!

  52. juicejones says:

    I just experienced a little inadvertent layering.
    I applied Encens Mythique d’Orient apres shower.
    My King of Skin wrestled it to the ground and now I smell like movie theater popcorn.
    Yikes. I can’t watch Downton 4 smelling like this.
    Felt melancholy all day about Phil Everly.
    I stood behind him once in a 7-11 and an Everly Brothers song was playing on the Muzak.
    He didn’t flinch, but I did.
    A musical game changer. RIP.

    • Rappleyea says:

      Nice memory of Phil Everly. The young’uns today don’t realize how influential he and his brother were.

  53. Rappleyea says:

    1) I’m on Team Iris – but with anything other than a white musk base!
    2) Iso e super can go away! It literally makes me nauseous and because it “boosts” notes, they’re using it in almost everything.
    I’d love to see more narcissus used.
    3) I resolve to test more indie houses.

  54. hajusuuri says:

    Bergdorfs has an online GC event…spend $500, get a $100 gift card ($750 / $200 and $1,000 / $300). The code is JANGC. If you have Christmas / Holiday / Bonus money burning a hole in your pocket…

    (not affiliated)

    • hajusuuri says:

      And it’s online only and good through Jan 7

    • Merlin says:

      Yikes, that money was gone by the first of January;)

  55. Jarrett says:

    1. I’d love to see more masculines from Parfums de Nicolai. I also join the chorus of those demanding smaller bottles and/or Tauer-style explorer sets. Being expected to buy 100ml of, for example, Bel Ami Vetiver or Guerlain Derby, is a big ask. Also a better range of masculine florals.

    2. I’d love to smell a Thai-inspired perfume based on Thai jasmine (different to the cleaner, pristine Chinese jasmine), frangipani and lemongrass. Also there is a Chinese flower sold by elderly people at little stalls in Hong Kong. Cab drivers drape them over their air-cons to perfume the taxis. I don’t know the name of the flower but my grandparents used to grow them in Australia from a clipping brought over from Hong Kong. That would make an excellent white floral in the Carnal Flower mold.

    3. My perfume resolution is to prune and consolidate my collection, principally because I’m faced with the task of schlepping my collection back to Australia from Hong Kong. Perhaps counterintuitively I also want to get more Chanel Les Exclusifs.

  56. jovejove says:

    Would like to see a new men’s line for Mugler. Considering there is no Alien for men, because they wouldn’t be able to nickname it A*Men for obvious reasons, I would like to see something completely different. “Monstrum”, “Diety”, “ArchAngel”? Something that has the same relationship as alien does with angel.

    I would like to see a salty trend occur. I love my 212VIP for men and Womanity, and would love to see how far they could take it.

    Fragrance resolution; use more body products over the fragrance.

    • ravjan says:

      To combine 1&2 of your wishes how about launching C*Man (read ‘sea-man’) which would obviously call for a salty note? ;)

      • jovejove says:

        Ahahahahaha! Good one :P

  57. KateReed says:

    1. A friend recently told me that Cartier’s De Lune is being stocked again, so if it’s back, I would like a flanker. Something darker and mayber sharper and sweeter might be fun.

    2. Cinnamon! I have been craving cinnamon, and I’d like it in a quietly sweet white floral with a green edge and and an earthily dirty but not skanky patchouli and musk base.

    3. Check Strawberrynet more often. I got awesome deals after Christmas on De Lune (it finally showed up!) and Goutte de Rose. And to give synthetics another try, they’ve not been triggering such big bad migraines lately.

    • KateReed says:

      Forgot to say that I’d actually like to see less “chemical” notes. It was fine, when it was CdG and still a novelty, but no more ink and toner and rubber for a little while, please? Well, maybe we can keep the sweeter and subtler rubbers as a backnote, but I’m tired of smelling tires.

  58. ticalica says:

    1. I would like to see Jean Paul Gaultier to do something interesting, maybe with lavender and cucumber notes

    2. I am from the Middle East and is popular to the point of sickening. I would like to see more smokey roses, more aldehydes and more green scents…

    3. To make good use of my existing collection and keep it organized

    • ticalica says:

      I forgot to mention what I am talking about in number 2… I am talking about oud… Oud being so popular over here

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