Back in February, Giorgio Armani released two fragrances: one “old” (Eau Pour Homme) and one “new” — Eau de Nuit Pour Homme*. I wonder if either of these launches generated any real excitement in the perfume-o-sphere? Certainly Eau Pour Homme has its loyal fans, but Eau de Nuit had a quiet launch — for awhile, it was a Neiman Marcus exclusive. Perhaps Armani fragrances are more popular in Europe than in the U.S.?
Eau Pour Homme is a well-made re-issue/reformulation. Contrary to some reports I read online, Eau de Nuit Pour Homme (same bottle design as Eau Pour Homme except the glass is black) isn’t a darker/richer version of Eau Pour Homme; it’s a distinct (if not exactly distinctive) fragrance experience.
Eau de Nuit goes on smelling a bit soft and thick, as if bergamot and pink pepper had been blended into a dense cold cream (neither note has much impact). The next phase of Eau de Nuit, arriving seconds after the opening, is spicy — a mix of sweet nutmeg and cardamom — with a hint of heliotrope. The heart of Eau de Nuit does not exactly smell sudsy or talc-y, but it reminds me of an old-fashioned toiletry product an “English country gentleman” or “clubman” would keep on his dressing table.
As Eau de Nuit segues into its final phase of development, a rich tonka bean accord takes over (tinged, perhaps, with some tobacco). If you don’t like tonka bean scents, skip Eau de Nuit, because the note you’ll smell most, and longest, is tonka bean. As for Eau de Nuit’s “iris”? After wearing Eau de Nuit for three days in a row, I didn't detect even a whiff of iris; and if iris is present, it’s fleeting — skip a breath and you’ll miss it.
Eau de Nuit is a nice men’s scent, and one of my favorite non-Privé Armani colognes, but I wish the fragrance had some edginess/originality (having a men’s cologne depend on tonka bean for its personality is just too easy). Using my very own Now Smell This grading system: Armani gets an “A-” for Eau Pour Homme…and a “C+” for Eau de Nuit.
Giorgio Armani Eau de Nuit has good sillage and excellent lasting power; it's available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($66/$84).
*Listed notes: bergamot, pink pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, heliotrope, iris, cedar, amber and tonka bean.