The Monday Mail ~ help Poppie find a new perfume

Buzón en La Habana Vieja

Today we're helping Poppie, who has just retired and wants to update her fragrance wardrobe — she feels like she's been in a rut and is due for big changes. She'd like to find a special occasion perfume, plus a few everyday scents that will survive sports and hopefully not attract mosquitoes. She wants her new fragrances to be generally happy, uplifting, fresh, warm and friendly, and to have good lasting power — she's not looking for anything "femme fatale" or "grand dame matriarch".  Here is what we know about Poppie:

She's in her early 60s and lives in the San Francisco Bay area.

She says she is fair and thin skinned with freckles, green eyes, peachy cheeks, a few wrinkles and dark brown hair with some grey. She uses minimal makeup and bright coral lipstick.

She's mostly worked in finance/accounting, where close, non-confrontational scents are the norm.

She says she is a visual, analytic type of person, quiet most of the time with occasional bursts of activity. She loves camping, hiking, cross country skiing, Siberian husky dogs, and horses.

Poppie's previous "standby" fragrances now seem too bland and lightweight to her — this would include Elizabeth Arden Green Tea (she loves the rhubarb and mint) and Green Tea Lavender (her nighttime comfort scent); several of the Clean fragrances; Clinique Happy and Happy Heart (safe work fragrances). Farther back, she used to like Estee Lauder Aliage and Cinnabar; Clinique Aromatics Elixir (way too much for her now); Madame Rochas; Norell by Norell; Ralph Lauren Safari (more sexy than she cares for now); the 'old' Chantilly by Houbigant and Elizabeth Arden Blue Grass.

Here are some of the fragrances she has tried:

Sung by Sung: too high pitched and screechy.

Bvlgari Blv Notte: intriguing, but too light and short-lived.

Chanel Chance: too sweet.

Perfumers Workshop Tea Rose: beautiful but too heavy.

Avon Imari: she liked the incense.

Avon Rare Gold & Elizabeth Arden Red Door: she hates them both.

Lolita Lempicka: a wonderful complex rich scent, but too heavy/oily on her skin.

Philosophy Amazing Grace: a little too sweet and simple, and didn't last.

What say you?

Note: image is Buzón en La Habana Vieja [cropped] by Quadrophenius at flickr; some rights reserved.

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  1. mutzi says:

    My first thoughts were Bottega Veneta or BK Back to Black. I recently bought Balenciaga L’Essence and find it amazing on my skin.

  2. Mrs.Scents says:

    Thinking possibly BVLGARI Omnia Coral (it’s citrus-y/musky/soapy scent sounds perfect for Poppie’s lifestyle and personality) or maybe DKNY Pure Verbena (citrus w/ light Ponds Cold Cream scents of musk and rose)

    • missk says:

      Completely agree with bvlgari omnia coral it was the first fragrance that came to mind : )

      • Poppie says:

        Will have to try the Bvlgari Coral — I love the Blv Notte! However, Bvlgaris don’t project very far on me — very close to the skin.

  3. Ginny M says:

    I’d recommend Poppie try some of the Ormonde Jayne line. Ormonde Woman might be an excellent choice; and perhaps Frangipani for those lighter moments? For warmer weather I’m loving Carthusia’s Mediterraneo — a little bit of citrus-and-green heaven that’s irrepressibly cheery and makes me think of a cocktail made with Gin and Sprite (which sounds unappealing and sweet, but it’s really lovely and crisp, even though it doesn’t last an incredibly long time). Another new, crisp frag I like is Duchaufour’s new rhubarb Aedes de Venustas.

    I just ordered a decant of Maison Francis Kurkdjian’s new Oud fragrance, and it’s not too “oud-y” — sophisticated, rich, and with excellent lasting power. Mind you, for that price, there are also the Amouage options to consider…Lyric, Jubliation 25…

    For not-so-niche options, I’d suggest Bottega Veneta for cooler weather, and maybe Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche, Eau de Orange Verte (a shoulder-season frag) or the refreshing, light but quite durable Eau The Blanc by Bvlgari (usually findable for a great price).

    • Poppie says:

      I will look these up. I have never tried anything in the Ormand line. I’ve always been a fan of Francis Kurkdjian’s fragrances — I believe that he did Green Tea and some of the flankers for Elizabeth Arden.
      Thank you for the ideas — I’ll have to do some serious sniffing soon.

      • Poppie says:

        spell check – Ormonde —

  4. Dilana says:

    Why not try the sampler set from Ineke?

    • Poppie says:

      Thank you, I’ll look for it. Maybe samplers would be the way to go for me — if I don’t like something, I can pass them on….

    • Poppie says:

      Oh, I just looked up the Ineke web site, and the sampler is very reasonable, and they will apply the price to a fragrance purchase. Thank you for the suggestion!

  5. lise says:

    Maybe Traversee du Bosphore by L’Artisan could be somthing, Poppy? Or if YouTube sant somthing clean, pretty and classic, try Creeds Love in White.

    • lise says:

      You Tube= You would like. My IPad are silly.

    • lise says:

      You Tube= You would like. My IPad are silly.

      • Poppie says:

        Love in White sounds like it might be a wedding scent, and I don’t like heavy florals, generally. Is it so?
        I’ve been reading a lot about L’Artisan scents, and will definitely order a few decants. Thank you.

        • lise says:

          Creed Love in White is not heavy at all. It is light and delicate, I think. But with staying power. My mother is very sensitive to heavy florals (gives her headache), but she can wear this one. If you haven´t tried L´Artisan scents yet, you are really in for a treat. Enjoy!

  6. ChocolatEyes613 says:

    Perfumes Poppie should try:
    Bvlgari Omnia
    Balenciaga L’Essence
    Bottega Veneta
    Issey Miyake L’Eau D’Issey
    Chanel No. 5 Eau Premiere
    Hermes Kelly Caleche
    Thierry Mugler Womanity
    Armani Code

    • Poppie says:

      I’ve tried several of the Miyaki scents last year, and they are very appealing, but seemed very ‘soft.’ Will give those another go, and also will try the others that you list. Thinking that maybe I should step up to the perfumes to get a little longer lasting, projecting scent. Thank you for the list!

      • Alyssa says:

        Seconding the Eau Premiere, Bottega Veneta and Kelly Caleche from that list, Poppie–even if you don’t like the notes I’m betting they are all about the right “weight” and projection you’re looking for, and once you get a handle on that, others will be easier to find.

        Would also explore the Hermes line in general–Jardin sur le Nil and Eau de Merveilles in particular.

  7. SuddenlyInexplicably says:

    Poppie, you are so lucky, you live close by some of the best perfume shopping in the States. Some day soon, take yourself to Union Square! Go to Barneys, as a start. Tell them what you’re looking for and let them introduce you to some things (they are so nice there). But I also have some specific ideas for you:

    Philosykos by Diptyque (Diptyque boutique on Maiden Lane). Also try some of their spicy scents (like Eau Lente)
    Osmanthe Yunnan and others by Hermes (go to the Hermes boutique)
    Untitled by Martin Margiela (Saks)
    Bergamote and others by The Different Company (Barneys)

    • Poppie says:

      I haven’t been to Union Square for ages! It really is convenient to me as I live not far from a BART station and of course it stops there. I’ll plan a trip and see if I can pick up some of the card blotters to narrow down the field. Or make two trips!
      I didn’t know where the Diptyque Boutique was. I’ve only read about their scents and some sound like the unique type I am looking for.
      Thank you!

      • capillary says:

        Philosykos is GREAT, and I really love the newishVetyterio as well: grapefruit, rose, vet over, crisp but feminine and very happy.

        From Malle, I think you should try Eau d’Hiver, which is light, woody, clean and interesting; and also Dans tes Bras, which is an outdoorsy, lightly floral scent with some musk that smells like the earth after rain. Both are unusual, but not overbearing, and well worth trying. Really beautiful!

        And what about Après l’Ondee from Guerlain?

  8. Zubi says:

    With my limited perfume knowledge, I’d suggest the following (I’m so excited I’m finally able to take part in these now though!):

    Elie Saab Le Parfum – sparkle, you say? sparkle, you get.

    Amouage Lyric: Light, fresh, but still elegant, mature and not OTT fresh.

    Amouage Reflection: try before you buy, as many don’t like this. Think water mixed with flowers. It’s fresh, no doubt.

    Humiecki & Graef Blask – Blask means “sparkle” (thanks Lucasai!), and although there is a deep red wine note (don’t judge til you try), it maintains some odd duality by still keeping a sparkling note that simply reminds me of a yummy champagne. When smelling this on my arm (8 hours later!), I am baffled at how I think of a comfy home with a fireplace at night, as well as a sunny vineyard where there are eternal holidays! It’s not a weird “what are you wearing” scent, and also not a sillage bomb, so probably perfect for work.

    • Zubi says:

      Checked my fragrance diary, wanted to add:

      Ys Uzac Lale: Stays fresh, and not as fruity sweet as Ys Uzac Monodie.

      Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire: Reminds me of Miss Dior Cherie for first few seconds, then goes into a note similar to Lyric on my skin. I preferred this to Lyric, as the heart/drydown isnt too creamy on me like Lyric is.

      Parfumerie Generale Corps et Aimes Apaisante – sparkles like lemonade mixed with soft flowers.

      • Poppie says:

        These sound like winners — I have read about the Elie Saab and thought it would be something I should try, but your other suggestions are completely new to me, so I will track them down.

        The perfume that ‘sparkles’ like champagne would be really interesting to me, but I would hope that it wouldn’t leave me with a hangover the next day.
        Thank you!

        • Zubi says:

          Do let me know how it goes :)

          The Blask def is something you should try with an open mind, as I first tried it and went “oh another liquer scent” (I’ve been getting quite a few of these for the past few days to test), and then I realised there was a sparkle I loved, even though that other note stayed!

          Enjoy! :)

  9. SuddenlyInexplicably says:

    For an uplifting fragrance with some lavender, try Eau Illuminee by Parfums Delrae (at Barneys). It’s supposed to smell like Northern California!

    • Poppie says:

      That kind of fits in with the DSquared EDT called “She Wood Velvet Forest.” Does it have the redwood scent in it? Yes, I am just going to have to get on BART and go to Barney’s! Thank you.

    • ggperfume says:

      It definitely smells like northern California to me!

  10. LexfordRose says:

    Hi Poppie,
    I live in the Bay Area too, am in my mid-60’s, semi-retired, love Australian Shepherds and horses. :^) I’d second the Ormonde Jayne and Bottega Veneta recommendations. Also, in the Bay Area spirit of “localism,” you might want to check out Sonoma Scent Studio. Lovely, high-quality fragrances, and Laurie Erickson, the perfumer, couldn’t be nicer . Have fun in this new stage of life!

    • nozknoz says:

      This is a great suggestion! I love SSS Tabac Aurea, and many here rave about Incense Pure and Champagne de Bois.

    • Poppie says:

      I’ve really enjoyed some of the other Kurkdjian fragrances, and have smelled Jo Malone on other people, so will give them a try. Amber and Ginger sound like a great combination. Thank you.

    • Poppie says:

      I am hearing a lot of suggestions for Bottega!
      Thank you for your good wishes and suggestions. You know, if I didn’t have huskies, I would have Aussies. They too are wonderous dogs (and get along with horses much better than Siberians).

  11. merrysovery says:

    You’ve received a lot of great options already! Definitely check out Balenciaga Paris — office appropriate, unique, and uplifting. Ormonde Jayne was mentioned and is a great idea — especially Champaca and Woman. Also, check out Frederic Malle’s L’eau d’Hiver (chilly, subdued iris and heliotrope) which is unique and good for office wear. Lastly, I love Bottega Venetta (floral suede) but you may find it too heavy, especially for summer.

  12. austenfan says:

    Second The Different Company especially: Bergamote, Osmanthus and De Bachmakov
    Second Bvlgari: Omnia- Original and Crystalline
    Prescriptives: Calyx
    Why not try some Goutals? Eau du Ciel, Le Chèvrefeuille, La Violette, Néroli and plenty of others too.
    Hermès: Kelly Calèche, and the Jardins, I am not overly fond of the Toit one but the others are very good.
    Some of the summery De Nicolaïs might fit your wishes. I am thinking of Weekend à Deauville, L’Eau Mixte, Eau d’Eté and Balle de Match. I don’t know where they would be available to you, where you live.
    Parfums Delrae: Début
    Editions de Parfums ( Frédéric Malle): En Passant and maybe Angéliques sous la Pluie
    Ormonde Jayne has been mentioned here as well, I was thinking of Frangipani and Osmanthus ( and maybe Champaca)

    Have fun exploring!

    • Emily says:

      I like the DIfferent Company and the Malle suggestions! Ninfeo Mio might be another good Goutal for Poppie, too.

      • austenfan says:

        I agree with you there!. Even Un matin d’Orage might fit the bill.

        • Poppie says:

          So many to try! I’m here in the Bay Area so there are lots of options for purchases, and the internet is just a postman away. Thank you for the listing — most of those would be very new to me!

  13. nicolasss says:

    I think MANDRAGORE or (MANDRAGORE POURPRE) by Annick Goutal could be worth a try. Bergamot+some herbs+anice+mint and an overall tea character!

    • Poppie says:

      Love the tea suggestions — bergamot is the major scent for Earl Grey tea, which is my favorite, and the spice mix is right up my alley. Will indeed give this a try.

  14. Emily says:

    Thirding The Different Company (especially Osmanthus; I’m not as familiar with their other scents, though the line’s aesthetic would seem to suit what Poppie’s looking for). Seconding Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan.

    Maybe also Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite, and/or Azemour Les Orangeurs?

    For something a little different, Etat Libre d’Orange Fils de Dieu might be worth a try — fresh, sunny notes of lime, rice, and coconut, but light and not markedly edible (at least in my experience).

    If Poppie has enjoyed incense before, perhaps something like L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer would be appealing. Or Dzongkha (one of my personal HG scents) — though its character is cooler rather than warm, I do find it comforting, especially in quieter and more contemplative moments. Miller Harris La Fumee and Heeley Cardinal are also lovely, quieter incenses.

    Happy hunting, Poppie, and congratulations on your retirement!

    • austenfan says:

      Completely forgot about Parfums d’Empire. Like your suggestions (although I have never smelled Azemour alas). Maybe Eau de Gloire from this line might be good as well.

      • Emily says:

        The Parfum d’Empire website offers a nice discovery set, too (I think shipping is included). Those samplers are always fun.

  15. Lys says:

    The Hermessences line is reliably light and clean – SuddenlyIndexplicably is right, you need to go to the Hermes boutique for these. The Iris, Rose, and Osmanthus might work, and Santal Massoia reminds me of ripe fig and of coconut water. The travel set has four 15 ml vials of you choice – mix + match – which is very good. Only caveat is that they are not long-lasting on some skin types.

    Frederic Malle’s En Passant is an incredibly welcoming lilac scent, smile-enducing!

    Glad Bvlgari Omnia Coral is getting so many props! Also agree abt Calyx. The Omnias and Calyx are cheerful AND lasting.

    • Poppie says:

      I really liked the first Omnia the ‘rootbeer brown’ one. I sniffed it at Macy’s, and when I went back I they had discontinued it, and the Omnia they had at the time (the white one) seemed mostly musky, which I could barely smell, so I got the Blv Notte instead. So I will try the Coral soon. Calyx looks good, too. Thanks for all your suggestions.

      • Lys says:

        Poppie you may know this already but the brown Omnia is still available at discount perfume shops like Perfumania and online it can be found even cheaper.

        Also, Calyx is light sensitive so sometimes testers can be a little musty-smelling as can older batches. If you buy it keep it out of bright light to keep it going strong. :)

        • austenfan says:

          It’s why I keep Calyx in the fridge. It has been living there ( with my Goutals) quite happily for the past 3 years or so, and is still in excellent shape!

  16. Lys says:

    If you liked Lolita Lempicka but found it heavy try the EDT (the apple bottle has a “bite” out of it). It’s a little different in composition than the original, lighter, and with a very cheerful disposition. Also Fleur Defendue is the happiest Lolita Lempicka fragrance, uplifting and bright.

    Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire shares many of Lolita Lempicka’s notes but is *smoother.* The original (purple juice) has been reorchestrated recently, now in a pink shade, reportedly with less licorice and more grown-up.

    All of the above have great lasting power.

  17. SuddenlyInexplicably says:

    Sounds like we’re in agreement that you should go to the Hermes boutique. Be sure to ask for samples there because they have really good ones.

    Barney’s has the entire Frederic Malle line so you should head there for Malle as well as The Different Company, L’Artisan, and other recommendations. They’re usually happy to give you a Malle sample there. They’ll make you a sample of almost anything, so if you start zeroing in on something you like, ask so you can really test it out at home before making a major investment.

  18. SuziL says:

    Hi Poppie. I also live in the SF Bay Area, and while I usually wear a “bigger” scent, right now I’m enjoying a unisex fragrance from Body Time, the Berkeley-based chain that was the original Body Shop, back in the early 70s. The fragrance is called Fiore and has lavender and vetiver. It come across as very clean, very soapy, and – because vetiver is often associated with men’s fragrances – not overly feminine. A tiny dab will do you. Too much and I feel like I’m wearing a men’s cologne, but just enough and I catch it on the breeze and think, “Wow. Where’s that great scent coming from?” (Inexpensive to try it in the .25 oz. size) I think it’s a seasonal fragrance, which means it won’t be around forever. Call one of the shops before you make the trip over the bridge.

    • Poppie says:

      Oh, yes, I do often go to Berkeley Food Bowl for the harder to find ingredients and veggies — I’ll have to look up Body Time next trip. Lavender is great for me, and the vetiver might give it that pizazz I am looking for. Thank you!

  19. nozknoz says:

    It would be worth trying Annick Goutal Vetiver (soulful vetiver), Serge Lutens Daim Blond (apricot leather) and L’Artisan Parfumeur Traversee du Bosphore (apple Turkish delight leather). Hope you have a fragrant retirement!

    • Poppie says:

      Leather! I don’t know that I’ve ever worn a fragrance with leather in it, but it seems to be a note in some of these many recommendations. Definitely something that I will explore! I don’t know how my skin will make it react.
      Now, is leather something that the “ahem” more mature woman would be wearing? As fond of go-go boots and mini skirts as I once was, and indeed they are making a comeback in fashion, I would hesitate to wear them again. In my mind leather is something I wouldn’t wear, but I’ve never actually given it a try! Will sample!

      • Rappleyea says:

        A very beautiful leather that you might like is Chanel’s Cuir de Russie, and I haven’t seen it mentioned yet. It’s more of a subtle floral on my skin though than a leather.

      • nozknoz says:

        Poppy, I myself have first-hand experience with mature, and the leathers are they are sophisticated perfumes that are not likely to appeal to fruity floral lovers. Another one that I like is L’Artisan Dzing!

        Also, since I’m not seeing Haunani among the commenters, I’ll add Etro Shaal Nur, which is relaxed, balanced and lovely. (Not a leather – I’m not sure how to categorize it.)

        Enjoy the hunt and let us know what you choose!

  20. Perfumista8 says:

    Hi Poppie – congratulations on your retirement! I second the L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer suggestion. Have you tried Francis Kurkdjian’s Cologne pour le Soir. I find it to be a very cozy, comfortable and soft fragrance. And, perhaps from left field, I’d suggest giving Jo Malone Dark Amber and Ginger Lily a try. It’s uplifting and comforting at the same time.

    • Poppie says:

      Hmm. My reply seems to have posted two or three frames above this. Thank you.

  21. Hi Poppie! I am in SF as well though I am nowhere near close to retiring – congratulations! I would recommend trying a few of the Jo Malones, Orange Blossom, Nectarine Blossom & Honey, and Lime Basil Mandarin in particular. I also heartily support the Diptyque and Hermes recommendations. You might Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil or for the chillier weather we have here, the Hermesscence in Ambre Narguile is really lovely. From Diptyque, definitely check out Philosykos, L’Ombre Dans L’eau, L’eau de Hesperides. I also suggest trying Guerlain Jicky in the EDT, I think they still have a tester of it at the downtown Nordstrom. Not sure where to find it in San Francisco, but the new exclusive Mon Precieux Nectar is also very golden and warm and sunshiney though it’s pretty sweet as well. (Chanel Beige and JM Nectarine Blossom & Honey are kind of in the same idea family. And Elie Saab is like a sweeter, clearer pink version – and I swear that really isn’t just from the actual color of the juices.) From Chanel you might try No. 5 Eau Premiere in addition to Beige. Sonoma Scent Studio has some incredibly lovely fragrances though many of them are quite … intense :) do try Champagne de Bois and Lieu de Reves though. If you can, try Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite, oh and Spadaro Sole Nero is a sort of warm, golden fuzzy as well.

    • Poppie says:

      Just looked up the Sonoma Scents web site, and they have very reasonable samples kits for sale — have to get an order in really soon. I’ve always wanted to try Jicky, and I see that it is available in some of the decant/sample web sites. Jardin sur le Nile sounds like something I would like, as long as it is more leafy green and not really floral.
      I thought that the Malle scents were only available in Las Vegas, for some reason, and I’ve heard so much about Carnal Flower I’ve wanted to sniff it, although it probably isn’t something I’d wear — few florals really appeal to me. But then, it isn’t just a ‘floral.’

  22. Poppie says:

    So many suggestions, so little time! Thank you all for your good wishes and this very helpful information. There are so many that I would have never thought to try, so I am sure that I will have some fun through the summer and into the fall.
    An expedition to Union Square is in order, and I am wondering about the logistics of getting a lot of blotter cards to try. Would it be at all practical to bring a packet of small, self sealing plastic bags to carry the cards home in? Should I bring my own blotter cards?
    Last time I seriously shopped for fragrances, I overdosed and couldn’t differentiate between scents when I sprayed them on my arms and hands, and had to repeat the process over several days to finally come out with one.
    Finally, would it be at all odd to bring in a paper list (or a clipboard, given that there are so many ) of the ones I want to try? I don’t yet have an ipad or a nook/kindle to carry a list on, which seems to be the cool thing to do these days.
    I really do appreciate all your suggestions and comments, and look forward to trying out these new scents. I’ll keep you posted of my progress.

    • Zubi says:

      To save your nose – and money – why don’t you do what I do? Try two at a time, and then test them throughout the day! Make a paper list (I have a tattered piece of paper) and then star the ones you feel sound most like you. Then go over these every day (if you can haha) or every few days. I know this process takes longer, but coming from the experience of obsessively trying multiple fragrances since I started my perfume journey a few weeks ago, I’ll say that your nose ends up comparing instead of understanding the fragrance in its glory. Do keep us posted!

    • Lys says:

      Samples! Maybe a good rule is to not be afraid to ask for samples but be selective in what you ask for.

      If they do not have carded sample vials, many SAs will find a small empty vial somewhere and fill it with some spritzes for you if they think you are really interested in a fragrance. Frederic Malle usually won’t make you up a sample but they often have carded samples. Hermes gives generous glass vial samples.

      Nordstrom and Sephora have policies where they will both fill small sample atomizer vials of what you’d like to try at home, and if you purchase a travel atomizer (~3 ml and ~$5 or $10), both usually also will let you get it filled with a fragrance from their counters which is a nice way to try something you know you like but aren’t sure about a full bottle.

      If I go fragrance shopping I go with clean skin and only spray if it seems like a real winner. Often on skin, it will smell differently. Good rule is to try something a few times before you buy it, on skin and on fabric. Hope this helps.

      Also, Having a list isn’t a bad idea, even if it’s a mental one. Acquainting yourself with a line’s fragrances before you hit a counter will help you keep your focus while you incorporate the SA’s suggestions. Then you can ask to try something specifically that the SA might otherwise not have steered you toward.

      Agree with Zubi, a fragrance blitz is fun but can be overwhelming and probably will be the first part of process. Each fragrance house has its own personality; approaching each over time and discovering what is unique to each can be a good education.

  23. austenfan says:

    I completely forgot another suggestion:
    Clinique has made a 40th anniversary edition of Aromatics Elixir, which is much softer ( and for most people easier to wear) than the original. It is in extrait, so it lasts a long time, but does not project as much as the original scent.

    • Emily says:

      Oooh, great idea. It’s also a terrific bargain ($75 for just under an ounce of extrait).

  24. Rappleyea says:

    Seconding or thirding the SSS suggestions. It’s a very diverse but beautiful and well done line.

    Also, there is an artisan perfume event in San Francisco on July 8th – The San Francisco Fragrance Salon:

    I know Laurie Erickson of SSS will be there among several others. If I lived closer, I would definitely go!

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