The Monday Mail ~ help Michele find a new perfume

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Today we’re helping Michele, who would love to find a new everyday fragrance and another for special occasions. She isn’t worried about price so long as she finds the right thing. Michele tends towards signature scents — she will find something she loves, and wear it exclusively for 4 or 5 years. Right now, she has been wearing Hermès Eau des Merveilles for about 4 1/2 years, and she is ready for a change.

Here is what we know about Michele:

She’s in her early 40s and lives in Dublin, where she works for herself in PR & marketing, in both fashion and art.

She has two young children.

She says she is a kind, creative person, and although classic in style, she also has a bohemian, alternative side.

Michele loves to read, travel and eat, but her passions are fashion and art.

Michele doesn’t really know what notes she likes or dislikes. In the past, she has worn Cerutti 1881 (1995 peach colour bottle), Carolina Herrera 212 for women, Ralph Lauren Romance and Narciso Rodriguez for Her.

Here are some of the perfumes that Michele has tried recently:

Maison Martin Margiela Untitled: close, but not quite right, and she did not like the “ashtray” undertone.

Prada Infusion d’Iris: ok but not love.

Balenciaga Paris: too bland.

Dolce and Gabanna Light Blue: she really likes it, but wants a perfume that isn’t already worn by everybody.

Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand: her husband bought it, and she likes it and borrows it sometimes.

 Escentric Molecules Escentric 01: She bought this, and she does like it but it’s not quote “the one”. She sometimes layers it with the Eau des Merveilles.

Ormond Jayne Frangipani: too floral. 

Ormonde Jayne Ta’if: too strong, and she didn’t like the smell — she says she is not mad about orientals.

Tom Ford Black Orchid: way too strong.

Hermès Elixir des Merveilles: too strong (nearly gave her a headache).

Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles: too sweet and powdery.

What say you?

Note: image is post_te by fedewild at flickr; some rights reserved.

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25 Comments

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  1. sacre bleu
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    For a light fruity floral that is still somewhat uncommon, try Moschino Funny!
    For an elegant citrus chypre, try Chanel Cristalle edt – which you won’t find, probably, at the Chanel counter but can be found online. It’s very different (to my nose) than the edp.
    If you may like lavendar, try Guerlain Jicky.
    For a cheap thrill, try the Pacifica line (often found at Whole Foods), especially Tibetan Mountain Temple (clove etc) and Tuscan Blood Orange, which layers nicely with the Sandlewood.
    Have fun!

  2. lupo
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    I think you should try some of the Kurkdjian creations: you might like APOM pour Homme (orange blossom and cedarwood) or Lumiere Noire pour Femme. Elie Saab might be an option as well, although it’s quite powerful. One more suggestion, go and explore the Hermenessence line: I think something like Brin de Reglisse or Rose Ikebana might be up your alley.

  3. Delfina
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    Piguet Futur is a green creature much like Martin Margiela Untitled, but with less ashtray

    • PetronellaCJ
      Posted on 24 October 2011

      Second that, Futur is very nice and with an original feel. Calypso from Roberg Piquet is also an interesting one, soft and woody with a nice, dry sweetness.

      • Emily
        Posted on 25 October 2011

        Agree with both Futur and Calypso.

  4. Posted on 24 October 2011

    I recommend trying a sample pack from TPC online -
    Nose – Jean Claude Ellena sampler pack – 9 samples
    Bvlgari au The Vert
    Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie
    Hermes Un Jardin Sur le Nil
    Hermessence Ambre Narguile (1/2 ml)
    Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan (1/2 ml)
    Hermessence Vetiver Tonka (1/2 ml)
    Hermes Terre d’Hermes
    L’Artisan Bois Farine
    Van Cleef & Arpels First

    I would also recommend Prada L’eau Ambree EDP for day to day and Kenzo Amour Florale EDT for evening wear.

    Good luck!

    • Posted on 24 October 2011

      Vetiver Tonka is a great choice! I think it would really hold it’s own after Eau des Merveilles, but it’s subtle in the way EdM is.

  5. KRL
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    Sounds like Michele doesn’t like too much floral or sweet (based on her conclusions of things she’s tested) so I’m thinking a tea scent might suit her. L’Artisan has Tea for Two, which is spicy (but she can share with her husband), I believe Hermes Ambre Narguile or Osmanthe Yunnan has some light tea notes (can’t remember which). I find these to be pretty light, but if there’s an Hermes in Dublin, she can pick-up a couple of their generous samples.

    Good luck!

  6. Absolute Scentualist
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    For something similar to, but not quite a duplicate of NR for Her, I find Guerlain Idylle edp works. It’s a little fruitier and brighter than the NR edp, but still mostly floral with very little in the way of patch or other heavy notes and with a gorgeous musky drydown. OJ’s Tiare is also a delicate, pretty floral with a bit of a citrus edge, and it wears quite light on my skin while still managing to last a few hours. Molinard Habanita comes to mind as well since there is a tiny bit of smoke, but also a good bit of peach and green to keep it interesting and a snuggly powdery drydown. It probably falls in the oriental category, but is really gentle and definitely something that isn’t smelled everywhere one goes.

    Good luck and happy sniffing.

  7. Bee
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    cerrutti 1881 is one of my historical scents, back then when I was a serial signature-scent monogamist, so I’m just guessing here: try Iris orientale , felanilla (parfumerie générale, in general actually), the Ormonde Jaynes you haven’t tried yet, Kelly Calèche (Hermès, in addition to the above mentioned Hermessence-line), maybe some Chanel exclusifs (e.g. bois des Iles 28 la pausa), bois d’Iris (Van Cleef & Arpels), Amaranthine (Penhaligon’s), encre noire (Lalique), maybe the Harajuku-line (Gwen Stefani)

  8. helenviolette
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    Hmmm- I think Michele and I have similar opinions on a lot of those scents listed- SO I will suggest some of my faves for her to try: For day: Hermes Osmanthe Yunnan, Chanel Bois des Iles, Guerlain Vega. For night: Cartier Trezieme Heure, CdG Daphne, CdG Stephen Jones, Ormonde Woman. Good luck!

    • elise
      Posted on 24 October 2011

      Great minds think alike! Yes, do try Bois de Iles and OJ Woman. Have you ever tried Guerlain Samsara?

  9. Posted on 24 October 2011

    Michelle, I’d categorize your previous signatures as “Easy to Wear, Intelligent.”

    Within that category, I’d recommend:
    Esprit d’Oscar, from Oscar de la Renta
    L’Eau d’Hiver, from Frederic Malle
    Amouage Lyric Woman & Epic Woman
    Anné Pliska EDP
    Bois d’Arménie, from Guerlain’s L’Art et la Matiere collection

    I can’t wait to hear what you choose to sample! :)

  10. Liza
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    I second Bvlgari au The Vert and Frederic Malle Angeliques Sous La Pluie, and suggest Jacomo Silences, Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, and Guerlain Vetiver pour Elle.

  11. SmokeyToes
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    How about Miller Harris L’Air de Rien? Or perhaps the new Bottega Veneta?

  12. Dixie
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    Read Angela’s review on Bottega Veneta EDP today. It sounds pensive and I can’t wait to try it.

    SL Daim Blond
    SL Bois et Violette
    TDC Sublime Balkiss
    TDC Bois D’Iris
    Claudie Pierlot Mon Premier
    Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady (one of my faves)-in fact the entire line is worthy to sniff
    Hermes Voyages

  13. Valentine
    Posted on 24 October 2011

    Hi Michele! Sounds like we have some similar fragrance opinions. I really recommend you try:

    YSL Cinema–warm citrus vanilla, suitable or day or night
    SL Clair de Musc, since you like iris
    SL Un Lys–wonderful lily fragrance with creamy vanilla drydown
    Hermeessence Ambre Narguile–silky amber

  14. Tamsin
    Posted on 25 October 2011

    If you like Ormonde Jayne Isfarkand (but maybe find it just a little to manly) & also found OJ Frangipani too floral, I think you would love Champaca by Ormonde Jayne. They are awfully generous with their samples so you could ask them for & 2mls vial. Also they are opening in Dublin quite soon! Have you also tried Martin Margiela’s scent ‘Untitled’ which is unusually green & woody & light.

  15. donanicola
    Posted on 25 October 2011

    The Le Labo collection is interesting and wearable and would fit a design conscious lifestyle. Maybe Le Labo Rose? Patchouli 24 is great but may be too strong. While it can still be bought online I’d recommend Bulgari Black and if money isn’t the overriding consideration then do have a look at Cartier Les Heures, particularly La Fougueuse and La Treixieme Heure. Le Parfum de Therese (Frederic Malle) might work. It is a very intelligent but utterly beautiful scent. Something which is close to MMM Untitled is CDG/Hussein Chalayan Airborne. No ashtray! Also maybe try Patricia de Nicolai Vie de Chateau. (Thankfully all these can be sampled first via various online emporiums including The Perfumed Court if you can’t get to shops whcih stock them.)

  16. AnnieA
    Posted on 25 October 2011

    Seconding the Bulgari Black — sometimes it ends up in the men’s section. Maybe try the House of Fraser?

    • nosideup
      Posted on 27 October 2011

      I was going to go with a fragance that rings a similar bell to me, Dzing! by the Artisan Parfumeur. It definitely goes under the “smart”, “unique”, “discreet” labels.

  17. AnnieA
    Posted on 25 October 2011

    P.S. Could also try Bulgari’s original Omnia, if it’s still around…

    • Emily
      Posted on 25 October 2011

      Second the original Omnia. Bvlgari Femme may be worth checking out, too — it’s a refined, quieter floral that perhaps gets less attention than it ought.

  18. Emily
    Posted on 25 October 2011

    Maybe Guerlain Chant d’Aromes or YSL Yvresse? I’d think you could get a lot of mileage out of either of those, and you don’t smell them on every third person. Also, neither strikes me as being “too” anything.

  19. Michele
    Posted on 26 October 2011

    Thank you all so much for your comments….I am looking forward to trying out as many of the suggestions as possible! Will keep you posted….Best wishes Michele

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