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This week, we’re helping Jennifer. She loves perfume but she’s relatively new to the subject, and she says her tastes are “all over the place”. She’d like to find a versatile fragrance for day or evening, something “pretty and elegant with an interesting twist”. She’d also like to keep the cost under $150.
She’s in her mid-20s, and she majored in science in college but she’s drawn to the arts, especially literature (she loves everything from Marian Keyes to Virginia Woolf).
She says she’s an introvert, and people describe her as calm and gentle.
She lives in Hawaii, where she works part time and attends massage therapy school.
Jennifer says she doesn’t know much about notes, but she thinks what she might want is what she calls a “disguised” gourmand: nothing to sweet or “in your face”, and no sugary vanilla — it should be cloaked in incense, woods, musk, leather or smoke. Examples would be Chanel Bois des Iles, Caron Parfum Sacre, L’Artisan Dzing! or The People of the Labyrinths Luctor et Emergo. But she’s also open to other ideas! Heady white florals, though, are a no go.
Here are some of the perfumes Jennifer has tried:
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey ~ Her first perfume; it no longer interests her.
Annick Goutal Le Chevrefeuille ~ “I used up an entire bottle of this. Very sparkling and green. But it seems a bit too youthful to me now, would like something darker.”
Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise ~ “I love how the vanilla is not too sweet, but it seems too simple.”
Prada Infusion d’Iris ~ She used to love it, but doesn’t think it works so well in Hawaii.
Chloé ~ “too rosy and soapy.”
Caron Tabac Blond and Chanel Cuir de Russie: “Seemed really similar but I prefer the former, except the vanilla seems too strong. I like the opening of the latter, but towards the end it got too civet-y for me. But I like the masculine leather in both.”
L’Artisan Passage d’Enfer ~ “loved the incense; but it felt a little chilly.”
Agent Provocateur ~ She loved it, but it’s not versatile enough to wear all the time.
Guerlain Mitsouko ~ Again, not versatile enough to wear all the time, but she loved its warmth and elegance.
Patou 1000 ~ she loves the opening, but the rose gets too strong after a couple hours.
Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea ~ a scrubber; “The notes looked perfect on paper, but on my skin, it got really cloyingly sweet.”
Chanel No. 5 ~ “comforting in its familiarity but not ‘me’.”
Thierry Mugler Angel ~ she finds it very strange.
Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman ~ ” it’s so warm and inviting! But it manages to stop short of being cloying. I’m probably crazy, but it reminds me of a Japanese hot spring…something in there reminds me of hinoki.”
Parfums de Rosine Ecume de Rose ~ “easy to wear, it’s great for the Hawaii weather and atmosphere.”
What say you?
Note: image is Post Box by at Living in Monrovia at flickr; some rights reserved.
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How about Malle’s Eau d’Hiver?
Oh, second this…good thought.
Paul and Joe Blanc is similar and worth a sniff since it is not too expensive!
I was going to suggest PG Felanilla until I realised that it’s probably too expensive.
However, if you like Bois des îles then you might also like Piguet Baghari (a very refined orange-y aldehydic) or SSS Champagne de Bois. I recently discovered the latter after reading many raves on here and it’s fabulous and well within your budget.
I *love* Champagne de Bois, but on me it’s considerably sweeter than Tabac Aurea. You never know, though. The spice/woods might cancel out the sweet for Jennifer.
Funnily enough, it’s exactly the opposite for me. Tabac Aurea is much sweeter than CdB. Also, on me both scents smell very different when applied on skin and on fabric. On skin, CdB is creamy sandalwood while on fabric I get sharper, spicier cedar-like woods with not much creaminess except in the very late drydown stage.
…and I can’t wear either, bc they have something in common that turns nauseating on me very quickly. Shame, bc in the minutes I have before that hits, I can see why everyone else loves them.
CdB does not work on me either…I think I’m smelling the base???
I LOVE CdB, and I definitely find Tabac sweeter!
Sooooo…. I’m the freak here?
Hahha! Maybe, but probably not in this: I think I’m hypernosmic to certain sweet musks!
Hi! Jennifer here. Cdb does sound intriguing. Tabac Aurea was too sticky sweet on my skin, but maybe I’ll give that one a try. Thanks!
How about Traversée du Bosphore? That’s a disguised gourmand!
It’s got rich notes, but has an ethereal quality that could make it a good (and unusual) every day scent. On some people it seems to read as very sweet, but on me it does not…
That was my first thought, too (as well as my SOTD, as I try once again to find the love).
Wow, for someone new to the game you’ve tried quite some stuff! I second the Malle, Eau d’Hiver, plus would like to suggest Vetiver Tonka by Hermès. Smoky yet transparent, on the edge of a gourmand without ever crossing the line. You could get the set of four small bottles which would keep the price within your range.
Messe de Minuit? To me it’s sweet and comforting, but not girly or overly feminine because of its incense notes.
Messe de Minuit is something I’ve wanted to try for a while! I’m starting to really love incense scents; they’re really comforting now that it’s getting chilly (and yes, to an island girl, 60 degrees is freezing)
you might try Parfum de Nicolai Vanille Tonka, which is at least as much about the incense as it is about the vanilla/tonka.
I agree. Lots of frankincense in there.
I would suggest exploring the Comme des Gardcons line, paricularly Wonderwood for peppery, incensy wood and maybe Kyoto for a light incense. Neither of these are gourmand-ish though.
CDG’s White, which layers its usual “peppery” note with Lily of the Valley is lovely, and works as an everyday scent.
This is my first time trying to scent someone else;) I feel like the CdG’s have a lot to offer in terms of flexibility and still retaining a uniqueness. Was thinking CdG 2 would be good in terms of gourmand-ish. It seems like an effervescent Parfum Sacre (imo). Not sure how it would layer with any of the incense series, but may for a deeper night time scent. I’ll have to try White now ! I’ve overlooked this one. Totally different line-M7 also crosses my mind as something that may be worth a sniff.
What about Mauboussin? There’s a little vanilla, a little fruit, but it’s not what I would call sweet in the least, more chypre than gourmand, and has many fans here.
Gosh, I forgot that. Love Mauboussin.
These are total shots in the dark, but the following came to mind:
Le Labo Patchouli 24 (smoky, non-sweet vanilla in the Dzing family)
L’Artisan Havana Vanille (another non-sweet vanilla)
Piguet Baghari (No. 5 with a twist of orange)
Etat Libre d’Orange Like This (maple-y pumpkin-y comforting oddball)
I’d recommend Cartier XIIIieme Heure if it were cheaper — it’s pricey one, alas, but you might enjoy sniffing it nonetheless. Good luck, and have fun!
I thoroughly second ELdO Like This – I don’t like most gourmands, but this one is JUST right. So beautifully done. Do try it!
Like This is fabulous!
Remin by Reminiscence-a friend sent me a sample. It’s a creamy incense, but I don’t know if it’s on the website yet.
Another one to try is Black Rosette now that it is in EDP. At least get a sample and study the development of this fragrance over several hours.
PG Iris Oriental or TDC Bois d’Iris.
oooh, Iris Oriental is a good choice too!
I’m from Hawai’i too!
Byredo – Gypsy Water was my first thought. Totally wearable in Hawai’i with a good dose of something “different” – very pretty. Also now available in a 1.7oz bottle for $135.
I also second the suggestions for Traversée du Bosphore although I don’t know how the humidity in Hawai’i would temper the scent…
Yay! It’s nice to know there’s another perfumista in Hawaii out there. Just read a review for Gypsy Water– definitely sample worthy!
I’m in new york right near Barneys – I could probably get a hold of a sample for you!
anything for a fellow kama’aina
Just thought of Bulgari Black – smoke, vanilla and cedar, plus it certainly has an “interesting twist” with burning rubber. Oh and definitely signature scent worthy.
VERY much second Bulgari Black!
…I third Black! Or try Mac V3 which is similar..
I fourth the Black ! Wearing it today in fact and I smell GREAT.
Yes! I was going to suggest Annick Menardo too. I’d try Black first, but if you like licorice/anise, Lolita Lempicka Masculine is a nice option. Though not by Menardo, Belle en Rykiel is another lovely gourmand that is not too sweet.
Another awesome leather with a touch of sweetness in the base is Cuir de Lancome.
Everyone always seems to say Black is weird, but I have a hunch that it’ll work on my skin. I’ll definitely try it! (I wonder if it’s on the men’s side at Sephora…I don’t remember seeing it on the women’s side)
Oh, Black’s not weird IMO… interesting, but not weird. It smells like Lapsang Souchong tea and vanilla and new sneakers to me.
Black is wonderful!
Yes, Black is usually on the mens side at Sephora.
I’d suggest Parfums de Nicolai Tonka Vanille…or even Vie de Chateau! Kenzo Amour is a mainstream you might want to sniff…also suggest Parfums d’Empire Aziyade or any of the various popular Ambres (Ambre Narguille, Ambre Nepal, etc…)
Shalimar (maybe the EDP or the Ode de Vanille) or L’Heure Bleue for disguised gourmands. I think we have similar tastes and I love these!
Il Profumo Cafe Vert
Montale Chypre Fruite – DAB ONCE!
Andy Tauer Reverie au Jardin
and good old Jicky in EDT
-all IMHO and good luck
Haha thank you for the “DAB ONCE” warning; one time I liberally applied Hermes Bel Ami and I thought I was going to pass out! Sometimes in Hawaii weather everything becomes intensified.
I would suggest Donna Karan Chaos, incense and wenge wood loveliness with coriander. Also Bulgari Black, smoky vanilla, tar and wood. And SSS Winter Woods, smoke and musk.
Good luck!
Oh and Shalimar of course!
I’m not so sure what works with tropical heat, especially not now in a northern climate. I do agree with the Bvlgari Black suggestions, but I was also thinking of “une folie de rose” which I have been re-sampling after reading enthusiastic comments on one of the last polls, I would try it (it’s a parfums de Rosine, not too expensive, if you order the samller bottle)
sorry, just wanted to add: you can order a sample set of rosines!
I’d suggest Gypsy Water. I think this would work well in her tropical climate. The lemon is fresh, there’s a little bit of vanilla and a subtle incense. I adore this in warm weather…
Lots of great suggestions already! I’d like to recommend two more incenses – Heeley Cardinal and Etro Shaal Nur. If Jennifer finds Passage d’Enfer a bit chilly she might like these instead – I feel the same way she does about Pd’E (and I also have similar trouble with Messe de Minuit). Cardinal and Shaal Nur are more cheerful on me. I wear both of them in the summer months (and winter too, but how they work in the cold isn’t so relevant for Jennifer – lucky girl!).
“Cheerful” incense sounds perfect! I think the problem with Pd’E, for me, was the naming– I was expecting something scary and super spicy, but instead it reminded me of a lonely, austere cathedral
A lot of the Heeleys would be good Hawai’i scents – they have presence without ever being overwhelming, with the exception of Spirit of the Tiger, which is based around Tiger Balm.
This is going to come from left field but I think Costamor Beachwood might be nice. It is a slightly sweet woody beach scent that is not too marine. Their Tabaca is interesting, as is Sugarwood, with its cane sugar note.
Hi Jennifer! I wanted to pipe in because I’m also in my 20s, love lit, and am drawn toward scents that have gourmand elements but don’t smell like a dessert. How about:
Kenzo Amour. Some florals, rice steam, incense, and vanilla, and very much in your price range.
Lolita Lempicka. Ivy, licorice, and vanilla with musk.
L’Artisan Tea for Two. Spicy chai tea with a bit of sweet honey and vanilla.
Van Cleef and Arpels Orchidee Vanille. A little out of the price range, but this has soft florals and vanilla.
Or, if you really want to head into the incense route, CdG Kyoto, which is cedar and incense.
Great! A fellow lit lover! Although I’m a teeny-bit wary of the licorice in Lolita Lempicka, your suggestions sound awesome. Especially the Kenzo Amour (I think I sniffed it a long time ago and vaguely remember liking it….it looks like it’s time to revisit!)
Hawai’i is the one place I hardly ever wore perfume – the air itself was so intoxicating! But you might like diptyque’s Eau Duelle – it’s a lovely msoky (not sweet) vanilla that I’m enjoying today. of course it’s snowing her right now, but still…I think it would trascend the seasons! And I second Kenzo Amour as well.
Serge Lutens – Un Bois Vanille? It’s pretty woody and toasty with some edible spice thrown in, but it still may be a little on the sweet side for you.
The first thing to jump to mind was LesNez’s Manoumalia…
Not sure if I would wear it in Hawaii, but Paestum Rose also fits with what you are searching for…
And for an off-the-wall suggestion (your mention of Dzing! suggested it to me) — Feuille de Reglisse by Parfums 06130
As for leather, have you tried Ambre Fetiche by Annick Goutal yet? Oh, and Traversée du Bosphore is another must-try.
Have fun sniffing!
I really enjoyed LesNez’s Unicorn Spell (I thought it was pretty and ethereal without being boring), so I’ve always wanted to try something else from that line! I just looked up Manoumalia and the whole Wallis backstory is so evocative–I’m a sucker for good perfume inspiration stories. A “tropical” scent without the usual coconut note sounds good.
It also looks like quite a few people are suggesting Traversee du Bosphore. That’s defnitely going on my to-sample list!
Pacifica’s Tibetan Mountain Temple is a lovely incense/vanilla scent that seems sheer enough to work well in Hawaii. And a small bottle is very inexpensive. After you splurge on your expensive niche scent, you could try this one when you want to mix it up a bit.
I second this recommendation. Great one to try. If you *really* like ginger, get the body butter, too!
Hi Jennifer! I read your info with interest, as I’m from Hawai’i and still spend as much time there as I can. I also like the general concept of a “disguised gourmand”, and have several recommendations for you. These all work well for me when I’m in the islands:
Hermes Vanille Galante – salty lily w/light vanilla
Belle en Rykiel – lavender incense w/vanilla
Parfumerie Generale Iris Taizo – warm sweet-woody iris
Annayake Miyako – spicy incense w/definite gourmand leaning (it’s discontinued, but you can find bottles and decants online)
L’Artisan Poivre Piquant – yummy, distinctive pepper & honey
Stephanie de Saint-Aignan Royal Palm – distinctive blend w/citrus, florals, and spices on a base of incense & woods
Jo Malone Kohdo Wood Collection (Lotus Blossom & Water Lily and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily) – A pair of incense fragrances that could be perfect for you. Robin has a good review of these here at NST.
P.S. Look these up online and see what you think. I would be happy to send you samples of any or all of them. Just click my name & e-mail me.
Hi Haunani! I was just wondering if you were from Hawaii as well, because of your name.
Thank you for the wonderful suggestions! I just might take you up on your offer of samples
I haven’t looked up all of your suggestions yet, but so far I’m very intrigued by Iris Taizo (iris and cardamom– could be perfect for the rainy, slightly chilly weather we’ve been having recently)
Please do let me know!
Ok, I’m back with another!
Cinq Mondes Eau Egyptienne; it’s by Olivia Giacobetti, and I think it’s transparency would translate well in the tropics—also, it’s under $100!
That’s a good idea! Nice fragrance.
Thank you, scent twin
Perhaps Ego Facto’s Poopoo Pidoo? Notes: “citrus, orange blossom, rice powder, amber, woods and musk”. Almost-foody…
I like the Poopoo Pidou & Eau Egyptienne suggestions! You might also want to try Bond No. 9 Chinatown and Lolita Lempicka Fleur de Corail (these two are “reminiscent of incense” to me), and two incensy scents I really like are Jo Malone Pomegranate Noir and LesNez Let Me Play the Lion.
Oh, I adore Poopoo Pidoo – and it’s great in warm weather. It reminds me of lemon cookies covered with powered sugar of my childhood. Alas, I have not seen these in years, but a spritz of PPD does the trick!
You’re so right, it is reminscent of lemon cookies and powdered sugar!
What about Organza Indecence? It’s a not too sweet, woody-spicy gourmand. Plus it is in Jennifer’s price range.
Hi everyone! Jennifer here. Much mahalos for your wonderful suggestions! I’ve been taking a break from sampling & sniffing due to the holiday season chaos/spending, but I have a feeling the perfume craze is going to come back full force
Very excited about my new to-sample list! Will definitely report back in MM feedback
when i went to koh samui i took two frags
nuit de tuberose for day and an arabian attar for night
last year i wore aa tiare mimosa to bermuda and it was fab!
u had recs for sss champagne de bois
may i also recommend the fabulous, discontued(our fab ladies on nst have source tho) attrape coeur
How about Tea for Two by L’ Artisan?
VANILLE GALANTE (wonderful in tropic, humid sea air) Hermessence
BOIS DE VIOLETTE Serge Lutens
Another one I had buzzing around in my head and forgot to write down: L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Mimosa Pour Moi. It is a lovely, somewhat sheer, mimosa scent which would be a nice antidote in the heat.
Have you ever smelled Fredèric Malle’s Une Fleur de Cassie? Again, a scent outside your brief, but worth trying.