As the “publish” button was pressed for this post, I heard the frantic, desperate opening words of Etta James’ Stop the Wedding swirling in my head: “Wait!…WAIT!”
But it was too late…there was no turning back.
Choosing ten men’s fragrances that have been released in the last couple years and deeming them “the best” was difficult. I’ve certainly owned and sampled more than my share of perfumes over the years, and I’ve reached a Perfumed State of Grace (i.e.: I’m jaded), but I’ve certainly not smelled every masculine fragrance released in 2009-2010. Has anyone? (Many of these unsniffed perfumes loom large in my imagination: Miller et Bertaux Om, Christian Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur, Honoré des Prés We love NY scents, and The Different Company De Bachmakov.)
My list of best new fragrances for men is personal, and it isn’t categorized with available spots for citrus, chypre, sport, “dressy,” mainstream, or niche perfumes; I’ve simply included what I like. If you can’t believe a certain fragrance is on, or is missing from, the list: GOOD! I’d hate to think I’m predictable.
Please comment if you feel a great fragrance is absent from this list, but if “top 10-type” lists drive you crazy and keep you up at night: “Wait!… WAIT!” … don’t torture yourself by reading mine.
Best New Fragrances for Men
Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza makes me want to get a haircut, wear a tie and stand straight…without making me feel stodgy or “square;” its wonderful citrus aromas lead to pale flower notes (neroli, lily of the valley, rose) and a powdery “white amber” and musk finish.
Atelier Cologne Trèfle Pur is a sprightly, sunny-warm scent that feels “alive” on my skin; it always makes me happy with its bitter orange, moss and unusual “clover” aromas.
Byredo Bal d’Afrique is tangy and a bit “hot and bothered”; I love its lemon, floral-herbal, vetiver and musky wood-amber notes.
Comme des Garçons + Monocle Scent Two: Laurel is an invigorating perfume full of bay laurel (a scent reminiscent of marigold), cedar and peppery frankincense.
Costume National Homme is a spicy, interesting wood fragrance, so beautifully blended even my bête noire, cinnamon, is pleasing.
John Varvatos Artisan presents a lustrous citrus-rich floral fragrance for men — I really like the mix of pungent fruit, orange blossom, Indian murraya, and belambre; I prefer this, the “original,” to Artisan Black.
L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore surprised me. I’m not attracted to many gourmande fragrances but this sheer “diet” pistachio scent won me over. I think of it as the sorbet version of sticky, heavy Turkish sweets, flavored with nuts, rose essence, fruit (and yes, the pâtissier has a cigarette dangling from his mouth adding a bit of tobacco scent to the dessert experience).
Le Labo Oud 27 is my favorite oud fragrance; its mix of saffron, wood-incense notes and oud is powerful and, if smelled up close, startling. The oud note is given an off-center presentation — not too smooth, not too slick; it had an edge.
Marc Jacobs Bang is one of my favorite men’s fragrances of 2010…mainstream or niche. I love its peppery “tingle”…pepper so intense and fresh it has a floral character.
Nasomatto Black Afgano is a semi-sweet, semi-smoky “liqueur-incense-tobacco” fragrance; its rich notes blend perfectly with cold weather to produce a feeling of well-being — and it brings back good memories of all the pipe smokers I’ve known.
Note: top crown images [cropped] via Wikimedia Commons.
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Halston Man Amber – really not very amber despite the name,
smoky woods and a wee touch o’ labdanum.
Chanel Sycomore – that was this year, right?
Bear: Sycomore was 2008
Time flies!
Bear: it does..and forgot to say I’ve never come across Amber Man yet here in the U.S.
PSS: just checked and see Amber Man is at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman…explains why I have not smelled it.
It really is fantastic – has the wenge wood note in DK Black Cashmere.
I can send you a sample Kev.
C: gracias!
Kevin,
You can get Halston Amber man at Saks. My opion to blunt is that it sucks! Like you attitude Kevin.
I glad you know the release dates of Chanel fragrances simply because that is my favorite fashion house, and favorite fragrance No.5.
Hi Kevin. Wow, it is *impossible* for me to have a grasp of what is “new,” must less what was launched since 2009, as opposed to a bit earlier than that. Also men’s v. unisex…
I like several of your list, including Traversée (I LOVE it) and Trèfle Pur. Not a big fan of JV Artisan (I prefer Escale a Portofino for my orange hit). I need to smell Colonia Essenza, and I’m hoping for a larger decant of Bal d’Afrique.
Some newis men’s scents I’ve liked quite a lot include:
- CdG Wonderwood
- PdN L’Eau Mixte
- PG Papyrus de Ciane
- PG Felanilla
- Bond No. 9 Brooklyn
- Penhaligon’s Zizonia (to which I’ve been addicted for several weeks)
Joe: that was the hardest thing about doing this list…keeping track of launch dates, but I’m happy to see I HAVE tried all the scents you mention!
Hi Joe,
I am sorry for Kevin being kind of snotty about you list of fragrances.
Hmmm- haven’t sampled all of these- but the ones I have are great! I would LOVE a bottle of Bal d’Afrique. And the new LA Traversee…
helenviolette: I’ve been so GOOD this year *not buying much* that I feel I “deserve” a few new bottles myself.
Interesting list Kevin, several of which I agree with you..LA Traversee, JVA, CNH, CdG. ADP. I had to pull out some samples…Why haven’t I purchased Laurel (LOVE), Afghano..I don’t get it ( BORDERLINE HATE HA!), need to try the Byredo. Agree with Joe on Zizonia. I found Bang very similar to Wonderwood. I was dissapointed in Amouage Memoire Man, thought that I would have picked that one for this list. Some recents I enjoy, Bond No 9 Cooper Square and Washington Square.
(rambling? HA! )
C: rambling is always allowed here.
I love Top 10 lists!
Your list is great Kevin. I agree with the Scent Two: Laurel (noone hardly ever talks about this on Basenotes!) and Bang (a poor man’s Hermessence Poivre Samarcande) and was surprised to see the other 8 on the list (Artisan! Really…?!). Now I really really really want to try the new L’ Artisan, I love Duchaufour and I love Turkish Delight – I’m so there.
Black Afgano? Ick. Sorry that stuff left me a bit traumatized when I sampled it. Sort of left the inside of my nose sticky, if that makes sense. Glad someone’s enjoying it.
**My** Top 10 of 2009-2010: Ambre Nuit by Christian Dior, Windsor and Sublime Vanille by Creed; Poivre 23 by Le Labo; Forreau Noir and Fille en Aiguilles by Serge Lutens; Smoked Amber by D.S. & Durga; Eau de Pamplemousse Rose by Hermes; Eau Claire des Merveilles by Hermes; Shalimar Ode de la Vanille by Guerlain
Mike: you’ve got some RICH scents on your list for a boy livin’ in the tropics!
Mike: I had Poivre 23 on my list until I looked it up and saw “2008″ attached to it. Seeing Fille en A on your list makes me realize I should have included Wazamba on mine.
Oops, almost forgot Dior Fahrenheit Absolute released in 2009 is also VERY nice.
and Creed Aventus! OY, I can’t even keep up with myself.
C: I’ve tried the Fahrenheit Absolute but not the Aventus…did you buy that? If so, send me a sample of that too while you’re at it! HAHAHA!
Happy to oblige!
Hello Kevin, raining cats and dogs out there! MY GOODNESS.
Well I too love and adore Traversée du Bosphore, it’s exactly what I want right this minute.
It is a fragrance I can drown my senses and skin in and not get overwhelmed. It’s heart and soul notes soar on my body. Mmmmm I want a FB -it will be mine!
On the rest of your list I’m interested in Trèfle Pur Cologne Absolue and Bal d’Afrique. I’ll have to try them very soon.
They sound amazing for spring no?
Ahhhh spring…..it will take it’s sweet a** time getting here……………. I’ll need some ‘fume to remind me of it.
Have a great rainy rest of the week.:)
Tamara: I’m home sick today (bad back) so am sort of enjoying the dark day with rain and wind! Goes well with bed and opiates. If only I had a butler on staff for errands to the kitchen.
Oh Kevin-I feel you baby!
Get well soon ! And your right , Percosets and dreary days make the world go round!
Kevin -
I have a bottle of Honoré des Prés I ♥ Les Carottes and I can get you a sample if you’re still curious.
Nice list, too! I’m a huge Oud 27 fan myself, and was disappointed to see that Montale basically plagiarized for their new Aoud Musk.
KB2003: interesting! Haven’t tried the new Montale. ANd thank you for the kind offer…supposedly samples of the HdP are on their way to me!
Black Afghano is one of my favorite all time scents-I didn’t realize it was classified as a “men’s” scent. Still, just wonderful!
Dixie: glad to see there’s another fan of Afgano out there.
Great list. I would add Penhaligon’s Sartorial and L’Artisan’s Al Oudh, both by Bertrand Duchaufour. Also, what about Frederic Malle’s Geranium Pour Monsieur?I totally agree with Bang–I love it–and I like Oud 27.
Harry: FM Geranium almost made my list. I also was pleased to sample Sartorial just last week and I really like it a lot so far — I was a little afraid after Kevin’s review, but I think I definitely want to get to know it better.
Harrys: I DO like Géranium and it was a “finalist” before I put this list together….
This was a perfect article for me, since I seem to be traipsing around on the “other side of the aisle” a bit lately – mostly catching up with classics (Bel Ami, Egoiste, M7, etc.). I know not all of these are specifically directed at men but I have tried a few.
The Artisan went all “male” on me after a really promising opening. The Ateliers are all leaving me a little baffled – I should love them but don’t quite.
Love Black Afgano!! So dark and heady and apparently out of stock for the rest of our lives.
Need to try Bang and the Costume National stat, and resniff the Byredo and Acqua.
I don’t like the Oud 27 as much as the TF Oud on my skin, but I am not done with my sample.
Tama: the TF Oud sort of “dies” on my skin…goes flat…while the Oud 27 keeps the ZING…which I like.
Gee, and I showed you the Costume National Homme when we were at Barney’s, and you don’t remember? Well, considering our group smelled ~100 fragrances that day over 8 hours, I’m not really surprised you’ve forgotten.
Kevin, the idea of coming up with a 10 best list is enough to bring on a migraine, but I’m surprised how many of the fragrances you listed — Trefle Pur, Costume National Homme, Oud 27, Black Afghano — would also be on mine. I didn’t think we had that much in common.
By the way, the 30ml sizes of the Atelier fragrances are available now a Neiman Marcus, I’m going to get one of Trefle Pur this weekend.
Rick: AH! So glad to hear that…I shall go buy one too. The PR rep kept telling me “2011″ for the smaller sizes.
That is good news about the Trefle Pur! I just tested that this week and love it!
Ha! Rick I think maybe I do remember you showing that one to me but I can’t remember what it smelled like. I do remember one of the Chantecailles and Arabie! So I’m not completely losing it.
Happy to hear about those 30 mls – makes me want to give them a better try – those regular bottles are so huge.
Hi Kevin , haven’t tried all on your list…but I sure have to agree about Traversee du Bosphore –it’s my favorite release in recent memory (I can’t even put a date as I can never recall when something’s been released) Some of my mostest favoritest are Traversee, Nuits de Tubereuse, Kilian Rose Oud, Solange Cosmic, Epic w, SSS Incense Pure and Delrae Bois de Paradis….although some might be reaching back into 2008
Daisy: I think 2008 was a GOOD year…many I thought of as candidates for this list JUST missed out due to release date.
the solution seems simple to me: Top 50 ……..
… of all time…
… and for all genders…
I think I could do a Top 50……I know I can’t do a Top Ten…I always cheat….always.
Oh I just know that you two would be wanting to sneak in a 51st.
hey, by the time I get to 50 , you’ll barely have noticed a few extras tucked in here and there….and perfume picks are a lot like birthdays….just pick a number and slide into a holding pattern regardless of reality.
Oh, Daisy, I wore Kilian Rose Oud the first two days of this week and am so loving it! Also noticed after Angela’s epic Small Fetishes post that the oud has little flashes of almost petrol in it, which I would never have thought of before. Good grief, it’s just so delicious!
Plan to focus on Traversee soon, thanks be to the Empress of Enabling
yep…just spreading joy everywhere I go
Kevin,
I’d like to see your Top 10 men’s list of all time. Would Equipage be on it? Your review still makes me giggle.
Dixie: I DO think Equipage would be on it!
Great list, Kevin! I just pulled out my overlooked Trefle Pur sample and am enjoying it. So heartened to see that you love Traversee – I’m not a big gourmand fan, either, but everyone should have a gourmand to love – it’s like anti-oxidant rich dark chocolate for the soul. And a Duchaufour gourmand is like organic 86% cocoa, i.e., real food
Also VERY curious to try the Honore des Pres Coco and Carottes scents and de Bachmakov.
Noz: I’m beginning to be ANGRY at The Different Co. re: de Bachmakov…apparently it will never reach the US…might even disappear?
PS: HA! JUST saw that de Bachmakov is at Luckyscent!
Can’t wait to show your list to my SO. He’s recently started building up his own stash of samples and decants so it will be interesting to see which of these he might like to try.
Thanna: I’ve gotten several men to buy Artisan AND Bang…so that might be two to start with (just hide that damned nekkid photo/ad of Marc Jacobs from your partner! HA!
He’s tried Bang (photo free though – can’t imagine the eyes rolls that would engender!) but I actually liked it better so that one moved into my decant box. His newest lemming is Vetiver Extraordinaire. Wonder if that’s because he knows that vetiver doesn’t love me so I won’t be dipping into his stash?
Thanna: good strategy!
thanks kevin.. i love top 10′s
le labo oud is on top of my must try list.. i love oud and am just waiting for the line to come here to singapore, supposedly in january 2011.. i hope this scent is included..
i loved bang, but i dont know if its just me, but i had a hard time detecting the fragrance at first.. i thought it was very subtle.. anyway have just purchased encre noir for a cheap price and am enjoying that.. kind of an in between of CDG 2 and Dzongkha for me.. glad that i found a cheaper alternative
and it smells of pepper too..
never heard of Nasomatto Black Afgano but reading your review, it sounds lovely and intoxicating!!
lilyboy: well, you don’t have too long to wait for Le Labo…hope Oud 27 shows up. Encre Noir is a wonderful scent….
Hi There, can anyone help. My favorite fragrance was Helmut Lang (White Label) which has now been discontinued. I tried a few and cannot find anything similar.
Has one used the HL and found a good replacement?
Sorry, I don’t know anything about Helmut Lang fragrances…but it sounds to me like you might want to shop around ebay a bit and see if you can lay in some back up bottles while you can.
Kevin –
Some of the releases I like this year match yours as well. I really enjoy Tefle Pur and like Artisan. In addition, I really think CdG Wonderwood is well done (not necessarily novel). I like Hermes Voyage and Diptyque Vetyverio as well.
Mike: Voyage d’Hermes was no. 11 for me
Great list Kevin! I am thisclose (thumb and forefinger a mm apart) to ordering a bottle of CdG Laurel. It is so peppery and green; it really wakes me up as soon as I sniff it.
Dzing: I’m thinking that’s one that is “most in danger of disappearing” so need a bottle too!
Oh man, Kevin. This list looks great, but makes me feel hopelessly behind. Haven’t sniffed a single one. (But now look forward to doing so.)
Alyssa: “hopelessly behind” describes us all I’m sure!
I just tried some Acqua di Parma’s for the first time today, and I was really impressed. I don’t think I tried Colonia Essenza, though.
CEELOUISE: that’s the newest one…sometimes stocked in the men’s dept…sometimes in women’s.
Wow I’m surprised Bang made your list.
Le Labo Oud 27 i like this perfume to!
Great post!