Vetyverio is the latest fragrance release from French niche line Diptyque. They reportedly “had a fun time blurring the lines by blending perfumery’s archetypal raw materials, namely masculine vetiver and feminine flower bouquets”. In other words, it’s a unisex, although Diptyque, like many fragrance companies, prefers not to use that particular word, stating simply that it is neither masculine nor feminine.
Vetyverio starts out bright and fresh and energetic, with peppery citrus and leafy green notes (the notes: mandarin, grapefruit, lemon, bergamot, ylang ylang, Turkish rose, geranium, vetiver, carrot seeds, nutmeg, apricot, clove, cedar and musk). After that, it’s an exercise in subtlety: everything, from the florals to the vetiver to the spices, speaks in muted tones. The rose is noticeable but does not take center stage. It is just as advertised — men will not find it too floral, women will not find it too heavy on the vetiver. The middle stages are neither sweet nor dry, and have a lightly nutty undertone. The spices, while subtle, lend some liveliness.
I would not have pegged it as a vetiver-focused fragrance at all until very near the end, when it does get considerably drier and woodier, and the vetiver, finally, comes to the fore. Still, it’s not a deep, rooty vetiver: it’s a pale, summery sort of vetiver. It’s earthy, maybe even very earthy, but as vetiver fragrances go, it’s on the lower end of the scale for earthy, and true vetiver fiends who are after another specimen for their collection might find it disappointing.
Vetyverio is an enjoyable fragrance, probably more suited to warm than cold weather wear. It’s well executed and I like it fine; if I’m not absolutely wild about it that might be because I have so many vetiver fragrances already: to catch my attention with a new one, it has to be more surprising than Vetyverio. There are, admittedly, a few vetivers that I find perhaps too masculine to wear comfortably — Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vetiver comes to mind — but not many, and for that matter, there are lots of wonderful light, sharable vetivers out there already. But if you haven’t found your perfect vetiver, Vetyverio is absolutely worth trying.